Considering going one of these routes, Mechanical or variable. Questions: Why doesn't a vv need a kick? Will the power drop off slowly just like any other unregulated mod without a kick? Can we get some pros and cons between mechanical w/ a kick vs vv vw without a kick? Which is going to be more durable in the long run? Example Which would last longer without problems a k100 or a Vamo. Would a kick even fit in a k100?
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A vv/vw mod regulates the battery power using pulse width modulation to increase effective power to the atomizing device, and shuts off when there is not enough battery power left (usually 3.1 or 3.2volts). A kick does the exact same thing. You don't use a kick in a vv/vw device, only in a mech mod.
I keep trying everything (been doing this almost 4 years now), I have found I love easy and effective the most. Even more than tinkering, which I do enjoy at times, and very much so. I use the XL Crystal from Vapeage on a Precise 18650 and can't find anything (yet) that I love more. No kick required. 
I also use the same type of tank on my Roller clone (Siegeli #20, with a hot spring installed) and love that too. So, mechanical for me, for sure.
I also use the same type of tank on my Roller clone (Siegeli #20, with a hot spring installed) and love that too. So, mechanical for me, for sure.
People including myself have been having luck with the Vamo. I love mine. Make sure to get stainless steel.
Different strokes for different folks. I have VV mods and Mech mods. The mech's are great because there's only so many parts in them that can go bad, so they're easy to tinker and fix. I melted the button out of my Roller Clone (#20 referenced above) and just drilled it all out and put a horn button it. But the VV mods are much more reliable, in my practice. My biggest issue with mechs are the unknowns of where the battery is. Maybe I've forgot when the last one was charged and I'm not sure if it's good to go (will it last all day) or if it's already dead. No battery meter is a pain, but there are of course, accessories to remedy that.
The VV (MVPs in my case) are nice, reliable, family cars. They'll get you to Wally World. They'll work when you need them to, but they're basically all the same.
The mechs are hot rods. They're fast, they're shiny (or not), they can produce huge clouds with a sub ohm setup, but they'll break down. You're gonna have to do things to them to get them functioning again. So really, it depends on how much you like to fiddle.
The VV (MVPs in my case) are nice, reliable, family cars. They'll get you to Wally World. They'll work when you need them to, but they're basically all the same.
The mechs are hot rods. They're fast, they're shiny (or not), they can produce huge clouds with a sub ohm setup, but they'll break down. You're gonna have to do things to them to get them functioning again. So really, it depends on how much you like to fiddle.
I found the Vamo an excellent investment. But mechanically is better looking. So many varieties. I have an all brass Mortar. I use it with a kick set at 4.2 for most my ejuice and use it for pyrex glass tank replacement carto vaping of which I have quite a few and some un glass or brass drip tips. The Reo Grand can be kicked too. So I just deal with a little battery life issue. The Mortaepr has a top cap that unscrews for easy access to the kicks adjustment wheel. It's very consistent stuff. I use it without the kick too 1.7 ohm same and it s close but quite the same if your kick breaks. I'd get both. Ohms checker really helps. VW makes te Vamo vape great. No difference from Provari and no multiple button pushes. I do use stacked 18350 for some juices but it's not needed really. I've had my Vamo and mortar the same length of time. About 8 months. The mortar actually takes more maintenance but that's because it's brass and I am a clean the contacts person.
Light Seeker answered your questions, but maybe someone else explaining can shed more light (pun intended).
A true mechanical mod (also called unregulated) is simply a battery holder with a fire switch and a connector pin for the juice delivery device. Basic. Simple. No wires to fry. No microprocessor to eventually die. Something so basic though has minimal safety features; only a collapsable hot spring and vent holes, which only come into play after a battery decides to go haywire during a hard short. You need to use a Vape Safe mod fuse for safety protection, or at the very least use high quality batteries, either protected or safe chemistry IMR's. Vaping experience will drop as the battery voltage falls from 4.1 volts to 3.4 volts.
An electronic mod (also called regulated) has a microprocessor which regulates the voltage (or wattage) output continuously with the aid of a boost circuit or PWM (pulse width modulation). One can regulate the output lower or higher than what a mechanical mod outputs, generally 3.0 volts to 6 volts. Not all juices taste best at around 3.7 volts, so variable voltage gives you the option to find the voltage "sweet spot" for each flavor of juice that you have.
An electronic mod also can detect a problem with the atomizer or the battery, at which point it will give you an error message on the LED display, and refuse to fire to protect you and itself from damage. Many RBA's users who use ULR (ultra low resistance) use mech mods to intentionally bypass the protections that an electronic mod was designed for. Electronic mods also usually have built-in ohm meter and battery voltage meters, which can come in quite handy.
Electronic mods do not need a Kick, because a Kick is essentially a microprocessor boost circuit just like what the electronic mods already have.
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Mechanical mod's user guide: http://bumblevape.com/article/21/105/0/Mechanical%20Mod%20Proper%20Usage%20Guide#5
Tube mod safety specifications: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/announcements-news/271739-emss-ecf-metal-tubemods-safety-specification.html
Vape Safe mod fuse: http://www.rtdvapor.com/online-store/batteries/vapesafe2-detail
Rechargeable batteries for APV's user guide: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/129569-rechargeable-batteries.html
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VV if you just want to vape
MECH if you love to tinker. (but once you get it right, its hard to beat.)
I personally hate silica wick. That limits me pretty much to genesis style attys.
I was using the ego twist and a cobra clone and was making my own coils. I figured since i was making my own coils, i could use a mech since i could control the resistance via wraps on the coil. Once i figured it out, its the best tasting vape i have ever had. It fires instantly and produces huge amounts of vapor.
FWIW, The k100 with an rsst tank on it seems smaller than a vamo would be with a similar tank. im all about small footprints and drawing as little attention as possible while vapeing.
If you want to use lots of different premade attys on one mod, vv is the way to go. i have a kanger, and some Drip-o-mizers that i still use on my twist. They wont hit as good on the mech since the resistance is too high for my liking now.
MECH if you love to tinker. (but once you get it right, its hard to beat.)
I personally hate silica wick. That limits me pretty much to genesis style attys.
I was using the ego twist and a cobra clone and was making my own coils. I figured since i was making my own coils, i could use a mech since i could control the resistance via wraps on the coil. Once i figured it out, its the best tasting vape i have ever had. It fires instantly and produces huge amounts of vapor.
FWIW, The k100 with an rsst tank on it seems smaller than a vamo would be with a similar tank. im all about small footprints and drawing as little attention as possible while vapeing.
If you want to use lots of different premade attys on one mod, vv is the way to go. i have a kanger, and some Drip-o-mizers that i still use on my twist. They wont hit as good on the mech since the resistance is too high for my liking now.
I dont know much things but i love simplicity in my life.
So after my new love (evic) my next buy (when i can afford it) it will be a mechanical. With a 18650 battery i will be ok for a day at least. Evic with the same battery lasts about 2.5 day with my use.
So after my new love (evic) my next buy (when i can afford it) it will be a mechanical. With a 18650 battery i will be ok for a day at least. Evic with the same battery lasts about 2.5 day with my use.
I use a mechanical 100% of the time .... even though I also have a vamo, which is now my wife's main mod. With a vv/vw mod, one can use basically any ohm'ed coil, just adjust the volts or watts accordingly for the juice's sweet spot. A 2 ohm or higher coil just doesn't do it on a mech, you need to build your coils at 1.6 ohms and lower for the best taste & vapor production. With a few exceptions, most variable mods use PWM, which you can both hear & somewhat taste, compared to a flat DC from a mech. Power output is constant with a regulated mod, but a mech user knows when the battery is getting too low just from taste & vapor production (I've started measuring when I replace batteries, its always 3.3-3.4V). A mech mod is infinitely more sturdy than a regulated, often much smaller, always better machined and often a work of art, but often requires modding to get the best performance. A regulated mod is much more 'user-friendly', just put a battery in it. Each has advantages & disadvantages. I'm waiting on a sigeli kick in a co-op to put in one of my mech mods for those times I want to use the higher-ohmed coils on a ProTank or Viva ..... best of both worlds
Both, and you don't need a kick in either, but you can only use a kick in the mechanical. Regulating the output is what VV VW already does. I would also point out that large high drain batteries (IMR) have a flat curve to the drop off. As a result you won't notice it until the end of the charge when it drops off a cliff.
That's why you also want a VV VW.
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Be sure to use good quality batteries, especially if you are going a lower ohm RBA route. Here in SoCal, the craze is sub 1.0 ohm drip RBAs (I have one myself ;D, a dual coil chimbus at .2) but from my experience going to vape shops, the lack of safety is appalling. I only use high amperage limit batteries (MNKE or the WX by Panasonic) and even then I constantly double check everything.
I'm currently vaping a .6 ohm 28 gauge coil on my mech. Everything gets checked with a multimeter before hand. And I'm also very careful when setting up a new coil. I use the pulse method and an almost dead batt. I don't have any fuses or any kind of safety, but I'm aware of exactly what's needed to be done for it to work properly. I work on seriously dangerous vacuum tube amps which is about as nerve racking as it gets.
That being said, I use 3.7 aw imr batts and they never even feel warm. I was told these are good for mechs, but I'm still a complete noob when it comes to them. Do you think these are ok?
Nice. I have a bolt thatt sits and collects dust now. Been using 1100 mah ego batts for now, while I save for my vamo. Should be ordering next week. I like the idea of adjustment and fine tuning power to find my "sweet spot". I did enjoy my bolt, but found myself kinda limited with it. Good luck and vape on!
Just built my first genesis/mech setup! WoooHooooo!!! Sorry, nothing really to add to the discussion. Just a newb who's completely psyched!!! Do you guys remember ur first hit with an rba/mech? I imagine I'll remember this moment for years to come.
Got so exited I put it on YouTube. Come to think of it, it might add something to the discussion...if anyone wants to see how a K101 hits on an Aga T-2.
OK, gotta go look into a Poldiac now (with maybe a Cobra atty
). WoooooHooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!
Got so exited I put it on YouTube. Come to think of it, it might add something to the discussion...if anyone wants to see how a K101 hits on an Aga T-2.
OK, gotta go look into a Poldiac now (with maybe a Cobra atty
). WoooooHooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!- Status
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