Calling all Genisis pros!

[vsummer1]

Welcome to the wonderful world of trying to get a SS mesh wick properly oxidized!!!

There is a fine line when oxidizing a wick....needs to be enough to where the coil won't short against mesh........too much and the "oxidized layer" on the mesh becomes kinda brittle and prone to being easily disturbed by the coil rubbing against it or even a hot burning coil sorta burning through to the conductive steel again.

How do we find this happy medium you may ask. That's hard answer easily as there are tons of different methods, ways, procedures, thoughts, magic....etc that many times it just takes trying them all until you get one that works right and works for you.

I will say that with simply more practice it gets better but I will try to elaborate on some things that I have found in my time that have helped:

I'm sure, like myself and many, you have watched some youtube videos of these guys oxidizing a wick real quick and just throwing on a coil and bing boom bang they fire up this near perfect glowing coil, give it a couple of adjustments and they are off to the races. Then you think, man that's simple and you try it......aaaaaand (fart noise) no go. sound about right?

First off these guys have done hundreds maybe thousands and have gotten really good at it........but how?

Like I said at the start, it first comes down to getting the wick oxidized just right. From my experience it is best to get yer wick measured and rolled up nice and tight and to the diameter that you want/need. Then you wanna hit it with a torch or some other flame. The idea here is to get the wick hot enough for the metal to react with the air and build a coating of oxidation that will sorta encase the stainless steel in a non-conductive layer. How do we know it's good? Also a hard question but here's what I do: I will lightly heat up the wick on one side until I see it start to change color, then do the other side. The wick will go form SS silver, to kinda a blue-ish, then start getting to a dark gold or brown-ish. I keep hitting the torching as evenly as possible stopping while seeing these different color changes. Once it gets to that dark kinda brown I know I'm pretty much there. If you get the SS super red glowing hot then the surface will turn an ashy black, when this happens you enter the area of a possible over-oxidized wick that has to be treated much more delicately and can short out on ya.

So, my best performing wicks have been about 3 or so light torchings getting the surface slowly built up to that dark brown color. Then, to add another protective layer and a touch of rigidity to the wick, I will put a few drops of juice on the wick and light it on fire and let it burn out. This will sorta leave a burned juice residue on the wick that will help keep in from shorting (this also happens during wick/coil break-in and will start performing even better). I do the "juice fire" 2 maybe 3 times.

Lets say you try all this stuff and yer starting to get fed up with it and just wanna vape. This cotton wrapped SS wick method will shield the coil from the wick while wrapping and you can usually have just about any level of oxidized wick up and running so easily that you will laugh
Mesh/Cotton hybrid wick Bluegrasslover's method - YouTube

That method is really easy, helps wicking, and to me tastes pretty great but it does have it's potential drawbacks. The cotton must be wet at all times. If running the cotton method you will not be able to do a "dry-burn" to check yer coils. Not really too bad of a deal as with the cotton in there you really don't have to worry about shorts and don't necessarily need to dry burn anyways. If you do happen to run to dry tho, it has a chance of burning the cotton and giving a bad taste, be aware of yer juice level all the time tho and you can keep this from happening.


So, hope this makes some sense and hope you can get it figured out. It is definitely worth it.

YEAH, THAT ^

I had my first one up and running with no problems using this method. I had my 2nd one up and running with no problems as well. I just followed those directions and it was fine from the first one. I have not had to recoil yet. You can tell when it needs refilling by the harsh hit you get, then I just drop a drop of juice on the wick and fill it back up.

I have ordered the clear tube so even that won't be a problem soon.

 

[LucidAce]

The method I've use with good results is to roll my wick tight then oxidize. It dosent have to be oxidized in the middle. The only real places you have to worry about are the outside surface. This surface is the only one to make contact with the coil and body. Once I have my wick to size and oxidized I do a final heating to completely dry it and set it aside.
Next I use a drill bit blank that fits my wick hole near perfectly. ( anything round that fits well will do. ) I take a few pieces of 32ga kanthal about 3-4". I then twist them till I have a nice tight, uniform twist. I use my drill blank in my wick hole to coil my wire. Remove the blank after terminating my coil end. I then check my coil resistance ( I use my provari ) if you don't have an built in resistance checker you will need to use a multi meter on each post prior to attaching your atty to your device. Once you have the desired resistance trim the excess wire from the terminals. I then fire my device at the lowest setting observing the coil ( no wick installed yet). It should glow uniformly. This also helps to pre burn the coil removing any manufacturing oils. Once I am satisfied with my coil I then carefully install my wick. Lightly twisting it as I slide it through the coil and wick hole. Once I've worked my wick gently into the tank I trim the excess off the top insuring it will not contact the top.
( it is important to have a dry wick at this step)
I dry burn my coil at this point checking for hot spots. Sometimes I will readjust it for uniform spacing. I usually use a wooden toothpick. I do this several times adjusting my voltage a little higher with each step. As I approach my desired voltage I make sure my dry burn is in very short bursts. Just enough to make my coil glow.
Once in satisfied I add juice, verify wicking , replace my cap. Take a few pulls to get some juice gunk buildup, then blissfully vape away.

Provari mini with 18490 extention
Z-Atty-Pro
Juice: Mad Murdocks Radiator Pluid
20mg uncut

Running a 2.1 ohm twisted coil 32ga kanthal A1
325 inner wick core 400 outer wick wrap
Running 11-15watts depending on mood.

At high wattage it wicks like a geyser and only requires short bursts to hit like a freight train.

Lucid, I got my AC9 earlier this week and it's pretty friggin sweet. It's a vapor monster!!! I've been using it at 2.4ohms with 34g nichrome on 400mesh at about 4.7v and it's a steam train....choo...chooo!! I'll be excited to try the 32g Kanthal A-1 on it with more wraps.......it'll prolly choke me out

Studiovap, thanks for the kind words mate. My intent was to express some universal fundamentals of getting a wick oxidized no matter what method you use as non of the different methods are "wrong" but if ya don't know whats happening to the wick during the oxidation process than any method could potentially give ya trouble. I've never been big on making a video main because I don't really have the best setup and lighting to make a video good enough to show off the stages of the wick being oxidized clearly. I will consider it giving it a go tho. cheers

The cool part about part about the drill bit coil mounting is that you can mount the coil without the wick and test the resistance with no wick. This will let you know precisely where yer resistance should be once you put yer wick in......if there is any fluctuation or drop then you know you are shorting somewhere. Nice thing tho, is if it is off and adjusting doesn't work, just slide the wick out and and hit the wick again or make a new one but yer coil stays there and is still all ready to go. That technique takes some delicate work to slide the wick in without the coils moving around on ya. It works with any wire but it is way easier on 32g or thicker as the coil will move less on ya. The idea is to kinda "thread" the wick in like a screw using the spirals or the coil, it will just twist right on in....

Thanks, TechJ and spraintz! I guess it's official that I'll need to try that method at some point since there seem to be many people who have found success with it, and that that tweaking/break-in routine seems like a good one as well. I've been trying to do that, but I think improper wick oxidization has made it nearly impossible. I was kind of curious how one could make the coil that way and then get the wick in and out without the coil being too loose around the wick, but the "threading" idea makes sense.

Congrats on the AC9, spraintz! Maybe if I can get my technique refined on this DuD I'll be able to justify getting one of those...someday

 

[spraintz]

Another thing to consider when learning to make wicks and wrap coils: perfection is unattainable

It is easy to get caught up in trying to make that PERFECT oxidized wick and PERFECT wrapped coil but keep something in mind, we are all trying make these absolute, 100%, down the the micrometer even and oxidized pieces of mesh yet we are using the most inaccurate(scientifically speaking) torches, lighters, candles or gas stove burners along with just what we can see with the naked eye. These methods are never going to be 100% flawless every single time. Point is this, if you have seemingly oxidized a wick really really well and you have made a coil that should hit dead on at 2.0ohms and you throw it all together and get 1.9 or 1.8 ohms, don't just rip it all apart and continue getting frustrated....roll with it. Try it out, tweak it, work the coils a bit to get it to 2ohms but if it never does then ask yerself this.....is it staying really solid at 1.8? does it taste great? is it making the vapor I need/want? If so, then just rock and roll with it. I can bet that a majority of genesis style users out there that say they have a nice 2ohm coil that works great could pull their wick and test the coil by itself and actually be higher than 2ohms to some degree. Yes, with time it is easier to get closer to those perfect wicks and coils, but just know, it doesn't always have to be flawless to be "working right". Who knows you might realize you actually like lower resistances

A veiw on justification of the higher end atomizers:

When searching for my first "big time" rebuildable I spent hours looking at threads about almost every model out there trying to determine which one would be the best for me. I had concerns about a "top coil/bottom tank" atomizer as I really didn't wanna worry about wicking and tilting and dry hits(I HATE those dang dry hits).....etc. I had the mindset that if I was gonna spend a bunch of green on an atomizer I want the perfect one. I ended up getting what I feel is just about the best design out there....the G-Tank-US. It satisfied all my needs....durable, ss mesh wick, top tank bottom coil, versatility (tank options/configs) and value. If there was an atomizer that I would have to choose for the End of Days it would be my G-Tank (along with my AR-15) I learned how to do most all of my techniques on it and then started looking once again at some of the other big name atty's and thought "well, so many others seem to like em, maybe I should give em a shot". I ended up getting a BliSS, DuD/CHiD(that cracks me up and then the AC9 with the possibility of a Cobra in my future as well. Prior to ordering each of my atomizers I would have that weird thought in my head saying why are you gonna spend more cash on an atomizer when you already have a great one?....Aaaaaaand I would order it anyways Then I would get it and see just how cool it is. I use all my atomizers just about every day. They each have their own unique features that makes them great. Is one really and truly any "better" than the other? Fundamentally no, but each one has a different style vape for me and it gives me more choices while vaping throughout the day. Sorry for the ramble, just pointing out that the bigger badder atomizers are more than justifiable especially when you get all the hard stuff figured out on something like the DuD


Have fun and vape on everybody!!!

 

[LucidAce]

Another thing to consider when learning to make wicks and wrap coils: perfection is unattainable

It is easy to get caught up in trying to make that PERFECT oxidized wick and PERFECT wrapped coil but keep something in mind, we are all trying make these absolute, 100%, down the the micrometer even and oxidized pieces of mesh yet we are using the most inaccurate(scientifically speaking) torches, lighters, candles or gas stove burners along with just what we can see with the naked eye. These methods are never going to be 100% flawless every single time. Point is this, if you have seemingly oxidized a wick really really well and you have made a coil that should hit dead on at 2.0ohms and you throw it all together and get 1.9 or 1.8 ohms, don't just rip it all apart and continue getting frustrated....roll with it. Try it out, tweak it, work the coils a bit to get it to 2ohms but if it never does then ask yerself this.....is it staying really solid at 1.8? does it taste great? is it making the vapor I need/want? If so, then just rock and roll with it. I can bet that a majority of genesis style users out there that say they have a nice 2ohm coil that works great could pull their wick and test the coil by itself and actually be higher than 2ohms to some degree. Yes, with time it is easier to get closer to those perfect wicks and coils, but just know, it doesn't always have to be flawless to be "working right". Who knows you might realize you actually like lower resistances

That is definitely a good thing to keep in mind, and I don't plan on being able to do this with my eyes closed, but apparently it can be done.

But in all seriousness, I'm just trying to get a sense of the most common ways of finding success and avoiding the most common ways of encountering failure.

 

[gordong11]

I find the mcmaster carr SS 200 .16mm mesh wicks like a dream, and its dirt cheap. Handles Boba's with ease, can chain vape and doesn't over saturate when not being vaped. No tilting needed. I suggest it to anyone having wicking issues. I ordered a few different oddball sizes from mcmaster, and this 200 seems to be a winner. I was having issues wicking Boba's, not anymore

 

[Huffelpuff]

Im no genny pro and may be offering advice that is redundant but will suggest that I has zero luck with making mesh wicks before getting a kitchen torch. I direct the torch to my wick to make sure that each section of the wick glows red for about 20 seconds, quench, and repeat 3 times. Juice the wick and light it on fire 2-3 times. Make sure that you are leaving a bit of a channel in the center and make sure that the wick is not "stuffed" into the hole - a slight bit of breathing room helps. I'm not sure about others but find no difference when I run a lighter along the unwrapped wire. Have heard from others that recommend this.

Practice makes permanent (never perfect with ecigs) - I nearly strangled my first Genesis until I found what worked for me.

 

[studiovap]

Another thing to consider when learning to make wicks and wrap coils: perfection is unattainable

NO! NO! NO! NO! surly not!

ANYone tried solid porous ceramic wicks yet? (not ceramic flexible braided wick, but solid pourus rods)

 

[Huffelpuff]

I know that there was a lot of discussion on the matter at one point, but haven't heard much since. Has that been found to be safe?

 

[LucidAce]

I know that there was a lot of discussion on the matter at one point, but haven't heard much since. Has that been found to be safe?

I very recently saw MWA mentioning semi-porous ceramic wicks he's having made for him, and he's quite excited about them. He showed a small picture and said his were like that but different. And I think SuperT manufacturing is working on a hybrid mod or something claiming to use an entirely new juice delivery/wicking system. (I'm not positive it was them, but it seems to me that it was.)

Also, thanks for stopping by to give your genesis setup routine!

 

[studiovap]

I very recently saw MWA mentioning semi-porous ceramic wicks he's having made for him, and he's quite excited about them. He showed a small picture and said his were like that but different. And I think SuperT manufacturing is working on a hybrid mod or something claiming to use an entirely new juice delivery/wicking system. (I'm not positive it was them, but it seems to me that it was.)

Also, thanks for stopping by to give your genesis setup routine!

Still waiting to hear if anyone else has tried the semi-porous ceramic wicks yet, or heard about their success or failure?
Anyone?

 

[Dieseler]

What method works for me as posted in another thread.
Eric this is what i do and learned it back in the day when i had my scubagenv3 rebuildable.

1.Look at mesh and cut with mesh grain running up and down for your length.
2.Fold one edge of mesh with mesh grain running up and down.
3. Use paper clip on unfolded edge and start your roll, once rolling go over that edge not under it and keep rolling on that paper clip till its finished.
4. Use needle nose pliers to hold paper clip that is in wick.
5. Fill glass of cold water and bring e-liquid bottle to stove with your mesh .
6. With pliers hold over stoves blue flame not in it but on it till it glows red and keep there for 15-20 seconds.
7. Dip in cold water for - you will hear a faint noise, lightly dab mesh with napkin.
8. Repeat step 6. 3-4 more times each time dipping mesh in cold water and dabbing with napkin.
9. Dip mesh wick in e-liquid and hold over flame careful it will flare up some and get red hot for 15-20 seconds.
10. install in tank and add no e-liquid.
11. Wrap your coil making even;y spaced as possible and make sure that the ground and positive wires are tight and short - no slack in wire.
12. Fire up device and look for all coils to glow evenly , adjust with finger nail if needed to get to them too.
13. Fill tank and coat wick also with e-liquid , start at low voltage and fire up device.

Important -
usually when there is a short with tank full the top wire only going to positive will glow red thats a short , adjust wire with finger nail until it no longer glows red . Make sure the positive and negative wire leads are short and taught.
Oxidizing the wick only puts a very thin coating on mesh and that barrier can be broken if coil is wrapped to tight and also can be scraped off easily with finger nail if not careful this is why sometimes a coil needs to be moved just slightly over a oxidized part again cause barrier was broken.
Now some may not know but only the area that the coil is wrapped needs that oxidized barrier but it's good practice to do the whole wick after all its small.
Some heat there kanthal to burn off any factory residue and some heat there mesh before rolling it. I only heat kanthal till its red very briefly and roll my wick before i oxidize.
This is what works very well for me.

 

[martinc]

Reading the event unfolds,your only problem at that point was wicking;

Lack of proper wicking led to the hot spot which eventually went trough the oxydizing then pop went the coil.

-Tilt your apparatus
-Follow the uber wicking tutos

 

[LucidAce]

Reading the event unfolds,your only problem at that point was wicking;

Lack of proper wicking led to the hot spot which eventually went trough the oxydizing then pop went the coil.

-Tilt your apparatus
-Follow the uber wicking tutos

I think that may have been part of my problem up to now. I've seen people making coils and doing these dry burns to check the coils and whatever, and I think I was so concerned about having an absolutely perfect coil that I over dry burned - too often for too long - and kept ruining whatever chance I had at having a decent wick/coil. After taking a brief genesis break, I rolled a new wick and coil yesterday and decided not to try to "tortue test" the coils after they seemed to be working properly but instead just start vaping on it at that point. So far, so good, but it's only been 1 day and less than 1 tank of juice.

 

[studiovap]

What have I learned ?
Well lots and lots and lots. The problem is picking out "what works for you".
Now I'm sat here with two DID standards, by my side, both with entirely different setups, but both running my ADV as sweet as can be. So I feel I should state some of the key components of my DID setup method & "what works for me"

Wicks & Oxidization:
I have tried every posted method to get my wick oxidized properly, and the quick all over torch to bright red (not orange) first, then fold over 1mm then roll, then torch to bright red, and quench 2-3 times is what I settled on. You can torch that mesh all day as long as you stay with a red glow and not a bright orange, and it doesn't seem to become brittle.I spend maybe 7-8 mins torching and quenching once it's rolled, and I don't juice burn at this stage.
I only use #500 mesh now, and roll around 160mm by 37.5mm for a solid wick ( this one is for high wattage vaping on my mechanical mod and requires a tank breather hole to stop vacuum lock from hindering wicking),Wick diameter snug fit 3.4mm.
85mm by 37.5mm for a wick with a center hole (this does not require a tank breather fill screw is in place) and has a small gap around the wickhole to reduce adhesive forces in the juice between wick and hole. Wick diameter 3.0-3.2mm, wick internal hole 18g fill needle size.

I usually cut the bottom of my wick at 45 degrees, especially on the open center hole wick.

Coiling:

Before wrapping my coil I de-kink and heat the wire to make it less springy and burn of any impurities
I wrap my coils on drill bits and ss rods the size of my required wick, then insert drill bit with coil on into wickhole.I attach positive post first, and tighten well, then I attach negative ground post after pulling coil tight and spacing evenly. I then push a toothpick in between the coil and the positive nus to create as little "open air coil" as possible. The drill bit or ss rod should be a pretty tight fit in that coil and I lube it with a little juice to ease it out making sure not to disturb the uniform shape of the coil.
Then I pop my DID on the ZMAx or voltmeter, to check base resistance.
I use 28awg Nichrome 6 to 7 wraps on the thick wick destined for the 3.7v mod giving 0.9 Ohms and 1.2 Ohms,
and 30awg Kanthal A1 5 to 6 wraps on the open center wick destined fro the ZMAX or VV device giving 1.6 Ohms and 1.9 Ohms.

Wick Insertion:

I then adjust the roll of my wick to be a snug twist fit into the waiting coil, but I don't slide it all the way in yet.
I set the DID on a mod or support so it is completely upright and insert the wick leave 3/4 of it above the coil, and then drip unflavored VG onto the wick, and then I light the very top of the wick with a lighter, and let it burn down until the flame reaches the coil, then I blow it out ( before it heats up the plastic insulator on the top platform). I repeat this 2-4 times.
This not only seasons the wick, but it also oxidizes it very gently but evenly.
Then I put just enough VG on the wick where the coil will sit to lubricate the twisting insertion.
I leave my wick very slightly above the top nut, but not so high as it hits the topcap, (and the wick is not touching the bottom of the tank)

Dry burning & Coil adjustment:

This is the area that I have most recently had a break through with.
No matter what method you use to oxidize you wick this is when you do most damage to the very thin layer of protection, or so I have found.
Once the wick is in place, I set my ZMAX to 3watts and dry fire it ( it should only take a few moments for the "just enough VG on the wick where the coil will sit" to burn off). pulsing the switch at first then holding for longer if no shorts or hotspots are observed.
Hot spots are either caused by shorts of a loose wrap of coil, and both are best addressed while the coil is hot. I use a toothpick to move the offending coil a little up or a little down, and while it is hot it moves freely and stays where you put it.
If all is well and evenly glowing at 3watts i bump up to 4watts, pulse the switch then hold for longer, again checking for shorts and hotspots, then i go to 5watts and then the same at 6-12. If it wont fire evenly a little above your desired final vape power when dry then it will be hit and miss when juiced up (or so I've found).
This is a good point to check resistance, which should be dam close if not spot on you originally tested base level.
If all is good a little above that desired vaping power, then I add some juice to the wick and start again at 3watts building up power and adding juice directly to the wick as i go, checking again for hotspots/loose coils. I then check Ohms again.
Only then if all is good do I fill that tank.
Then I enjoy my best ever vaping experience.


I could go into more detail, but I expect you're glazing over by now LOL.

 

[Njt07]

Im about to chuck mine out the window...

Rolled up a 80mm 400, fits in the wick hole no prob, oxidized on the stove (got the wick to red hot then rotated and moved, did this 3 times no quenching) wrapped my coil on a jewelers phillips head 1.8ohms with out the wick. Throw the wick on dry, it reads 1.7ohms, put my gripper on 3v, pulse the button and the top coil flares and then it shorts and now the coils are reading as .8-1.1. Slightly move it, it reads 1.8! Pulse the button, shorts this time my gripper turns off, turn back on and we are back to 1.1. WTH!!

I have oxidized my wick, i folded the last of the wick to prevent frays touching the coil, I've adjusted the darn thing for hours and no matter what i do only he top coil glows, or i get most of my coils to initially fire then it shorts out again. I have yet to get a dry evenly glowing coil. On top of all this is my stupid stubborness telling me, "Self, try again THIS time it'll work..."

 

[gdeal]

Studiovap.

Wow. Thanks for that detailed description. Forget the eyes glaze over thing. I read it twice and just printed this out for reference. If you have more to share, I am sure that it would be well received!

Now if I can just make my wick and coils as nice as your pics over here..http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/330407-500-ss-mesh-37.html#post7634130

That is a work of art!

 

[Nepherael]

I have found that torching without quenching then rolling and doing 3-5 juice burns have been perfect so far

Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

 

[gdeal]

Im about to chuck mine out the window...

Rolled up a 80mm 400, fits in the wick hole no prob, oxidized on the stove (got the wick to red hot then rotated and moved, did this 3 times no quenching) wrapped my coil on a jewelers phillips head 1.8ohms with out the wick. Throw the wick on dry, it reads 1.7ohms, put my gripper on 3v, pulse the button and the top coil flares and then it shorts and now the coils are reading as .8-1.1. Slightly move it, it reads 1.8! Pulse the button, shorts this time my gripper turns off, turn back on and we are back to 1.1. WTH!!

I have oxidized my wick, i folded the last of the wick to prevent frays touching the coil, I've adjusted the darn thing for hours and no matter what i do only he top coil glows, or i get most of my coils to initially fire then it shorts out again. I have yet to get a dry evenly glowing coil. On top of all this is my stupid stubborness telling me, "Self, try again THIS time it'll work..."

TFF...This was me last night....for a couple of hours at least. I kept telling myself that practice will payoff. Sort of like trying to hit that zen moment.

 

[jhjohnson123]

I tried all the youtube ways and never got them right. I read the jack frost method and that made sense to me so I tried it and it worked. Now I roll my wick tight; torch it, check with multimeter for continuity making sure it won't conduct electricity. If it does I repeat until it has no continuity. I boil the wick afterwards which has helped me get rid of any bad tastes. I dry the wick with my torch, drop it in the tank and wrap the coils. Ready to go and works great for me. Hope this helps.

 

[Njt07]

Finally! I got my setup working with my DuD, 400 wick and a 1.5 coil (started with a 2.5 but the shorts kept blowing the coil...).

I started all over, got my mesh, oxidized it on my gas stove before rolling (dunno if this actually helped...) rolled it (BTW it seems harder to roll after I oxidized rather than before) rolled some more and some more.

I wrapped my coil around a jewelers screwdriver. This may have been my problem instead of wrapping the coil directly around the wick first. Then put the wick in and short city.

I ended up pulling the wick out taking it back to the stove and heated it to red, air cooled and did this three times rotating it.

Put the wick back in, wrapped the coil directly around it somewhat tight and started hunting the shorts down. After reconnecting the pos post a few times after it burned through my wire I started to see where the shorts were before they burned through my wire and was able to minutely adjust the coil starting from the top until i got all the way to the bottom and it held at a steady 1.5. Naturally I didnt believe it was working, it was just waiting for me to drop my guard, so I filled the tank with a not so good juice. It stayed between 1.4 and 1.5 ohms through half a tank so I threw the top on and tried vaping it.

Of course it started to taste strange after about 3 drags so I looked at the meter and it said 1.3, argggggghhhhhhh! went back to adjusting the coil and looking at the meter, back to 1.5-1.6 and its held steady so far, crossing my fingers. Right now I have it at 4v and will keep it there for this tank, if all is well Ill push it up till i don't like the heat anymore.