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small scratches yea you can use a drimel, drill, or bench grinder with a buffing wheel and some compound. Deeper scratches not so easy but they become less noticeable. Never ever use pliers or metal to pry on your mods or tanks. Unless you want gouges and scratches. Patience and persistence is the only way. Running hot water over a tight part can help so can popping it in the freezer for a few minutes. Going back and fourth between hot and cold has never failed me yet.
Wall O' Text incoming...
As a hobby I restore straight razors now and then. I have worked with SS before and it can be cleaned up. there is buffing compound out there for harder metals you can use. if the scratches are too deep for simply buffing you can get auto sand paper, lubricate the paper with something like WD40 and sand out the scratches. At least this is how you would restore an SR blade, I see no reason why an ss mod would be different. (Obviously you would want to remove any batteries before doing any work on a mod).
For larger surfaces, buffing with a dremel can give an uneven appearance, I would suggest an actual buffing wheel on a grinder, for smaller surfaces a dremel should be fine. When using a buffing grinder, put up a drop cloth behind the grinder, in case the wheel fibers snatch the mod from your hand and throw it, the drop cloth should catch it and hopefully prevent more scratches. If using a dremel, make sure you use a piece of cloth to protect your mod from any vise/clamp teeth when you secure it for buffing.
If you need to go to sandpaper for deeper scratches you are going to have figure out the grit to start at, then work your way up to 2k grit before going to buffing. For simple tool marks I would start at 800 grit and step up or down based on the results, then work up through the grits to 2k, then move into buffing. I sometimes add an extra step with softer metal of using a turtle wax compound but I doubt you would see much good on something as hard as SS with this step. I suppose I could have skipped even mentioning this bit, but I promised a wall of text and it was looking a bit thin.
After buffing if you want it to really shine you could try a polishing compound like MAAS (I have MAAS with a lavender smell, works great and is pleasant to work with).
If you are going for a matt finish you could stop at 1-2k grit sand paper and not buff or polish at all.
If you need more info on this you could check a Straight Razor restoration forum and maybe get some helpful tips there, those guys work with all types of material and the metal they work on is razor thin, and very delicate in some areas.
hope that was helpful. ...cheers
/wall
As a hobby I restore straight razors now and then. I have worked with SS before and it can be cleaned up. there is buffing compound out there for harder metals you can use. if the scratches are too deep for simply buffing you can get auto sand paper, lubricate the paper with something like WD40 and sand out the scratches. At least this is how you would restore an SR blade, I see no reason why an ss mod would be different. (Obviously you would want to remove any batteries before doing any work on a mod).
For larger surfaces, buffing with a dremel can give an uneven appearance, I would suggest an actual buffing wheel on a grinder, for smaller surfaces a dremel should be fine. When using a buffing grinder, put up a drop cloth behind the grinder, in case the wheel fibers snatch the mod from your hand and throw it, the drop cloth should catch it and hopefully prevent more scratches. If using a dremel, make sure you use a piece of cloth to protect your mod from any vise/clamp teeth when you secure it for buffing.
If you need to go to sandpaper for deeper scratches you are going to have figure out the grit to start at, then work your way up to 2k grit before going to buffing. For simple tool marks I would start at 800 grit and step up or down based on the results, then work up through the grits to 2k, then move into buffing. I sometimes add an extra step with softer metal of using a turtle wax compound but I doubt you would see much good on something as hard as SS with this step. I suppose I could have skipped even mentioning this bit, but I promised a wall of text and it was looking a bit thin.
After buffing if you want it to really shine you could try a polishing compound like MAAS (I have MAAS with a lavender smell, works great and is pleasant to work with).
If you are going for a matt finish you could stop at 1-2k grit sand paper and not buff or polish at all.
If you need more info on this you could check a Straight Razor restoration forum and maybe get some helpful tips there, those guys work with all types of material and the metal they work on is razor thin, and very delicate in some areas.
hope that was helpful. ...cheers
/wall
Theres a shop for everything in Cali but you could probably buy a new one for what you would pay for to have some one clean it up for you. I say step up to the challenge make it look new again. It will be a source of pride and you will be ale to keep all of your expensive stuff looking spiffy and new.
This may sound off but here's a though...
I am sure there are some SR restore guys in the area that may be able to give a hand cleaning up metal. Head on over to the Straight Razor Place forums and post some images in the work shop and find out if any members in your area would be kind enough to help. I have not been there for some time but those folks there are very friendly and always helpful. Tell em TheBaron sent you.
take it to a jeweler, some type of crafty shop where the guy makes his own stuff, possible a silversmith. There is a black compound for stainless that is extremely aggressive, ( in comparison to silver and gold compounds)
Depending on your plier marks, I would almost think you would start with 220 grit.
You may also consider returning to the company or possible finding a machine shop. stainless is going to be a nightmare to re-finish.
Depending on your plier marks, I would almost think you would start with 220 grit.
You may also consider returning to the company or possible finding a machine shop. stainless is going to be a nightmare to re-finish.
Drimmel tool with a buffing wheel and jewelers rouge. You can also us that on glass and watch crystals ( not the plastic ones). LOL
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