Can your head rebuild cause flooding?

[roasted]

I'm a little confused here... I have an EVOD and Protank with a spare head from each. I decided to pull the wicks out and using the same coil, switch them to cotton. I succeeded and they both vaped great. Since I'm kind of partial to the lesser air draw of the EVOD head on the Protank, it's been my vape tool of choice. Only curve ball is the sucker is continuously flooding. It'll be magically great and wonderful and then I do something like set it down for a minute, pick it up, and gurgle gurgle gurgle. Meanwhile, I have a factory Protank head that I did not change the wicks on, and it vapes like a boss without any degree of flooding.

All sources I read online suggest that flooding is normally due to overfilling. If that's the case, how is it the stock Protank head has no issues on the Protank tank, meanwhile the custom EVOD head on the same Protank tank has flooding issues? At the end of the day, it looks like it's my fault, but I haven't been able to dig up much info pointing to that. I was hoping to find something like "if you built your own head and didn't do xyz, this will cause flooding" in an effort to revisit the build and get it working without flooding.

As always, thanks for your insight!

 

[Myrany]

It would be hard for me to tell in this case. The shaft on the evod that goes into the air tube on hte protank is shorter and that might be part of the flooding. It could also be that you did not get enough wicking in the evod coil. If the cotton (or whatever you used) doesn't expand and fill up the space enough it is going to let liquid pass through. you could try adding a smaller flavor wick on top and see if that fixes it.

 

[CloudZ]

Overfilling these clearos basically means that the juice level gets so high that it overflows into the center tube. You can fill them all the way up to this point, as in, level with the tip of the center tube, and that will not be an overfill.

When replacing the stock wicks with cotton, you have to be careful how much you use and where. The wick going through the coil should fit just so, if it is too tight or too loose it will not work very well and could flood. The amount you lay over the coil should be just enough so the silicone seal cup can touch and press down on the wicks just a little bit. Using #4 yarn (4 strands twisted, about 2.5mm thick overall), I believe on a stock evod coil you push a complete strand through the coil, then split another in half (2 strands) and lay it over the top.

Also make sure the head is tight on the base and that the coil is still running straight across the bottom of the wick slots.


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[roasted]

Thanks for the insight. Maybe I'll stick to stock heads for now until I get more into this. I'd much rather have something that works. The success of my cotton rebuild was very nice but very short lived. I'd much prefer some longevity out of these gizmos...

Also, just curious about your thoughts on the EVOD head being part of the issue... how would the post length matter if the center tube of the tank makes a sealed contact with the white rubber grommet? Could that alone be it? After all, the EVOD head works great in the EVOD... Go figure...

 

[crxess]

Overfilling these clearos basically means that the juice level gets so high that it overflows into the center tube. You can fill them all the way up to this point, as in, level with the tip of the center tube, and that will not be an overfill.

When replacing the stock wicks with cotton, you have to be careful how much you use and where. The wick going through the coil should fit just so, if it is too tight or too loose it will not work very well and could flood. The amount you lay over the coil should be just enough so the silicone seal cup can touch and press down on the wicks just a little bit. Using #4 yarn (4 strands twisted, about 2.5mm thick overall), I believe on a stock evod coil you push a complete strand through the coil, then split another in half (2 strands) and lay it over the top.

Also make sure the head is tight on the base and that the coil is still running straight across the bottom of the wick slots.


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Clueless
ProTank is BOTTOM COIL

Problem is Not enough wicking material to contorl flow. While vaping, you are removing fluid build up through evaporation. When idle it is over saturating and working past the wick. Pop the Post off and add a thickness of rolled cotton and test.

 

[l0stm4n]

i've only started building my own protank heads recently, but the only times i get gurgling/flooding is when i dont have enough "flavor wicks" in there to stop the coil from over saturating

 

[Myrany]

Thanks for the insight. Maybe I'll stick to stock heads for now until I get more into this. I'd much rather have something that works. The success of my cotton rebuild was very nice but very short lived. I'd much prefer some longevity out of these gizmos...

Also, just curious about your thoughts on the EVOD head being part of the issue... how would the post length matter if the center tube of the tank makes a sealed contact with the white rubber grommet? Could that alone be it? After all, the EVOD head works great in the EVOD... Go figure...

I have NOT tried the evod head in the protank but I have seen other people complain of flooding when using it. I have suspected that it was indeed not a good seal with the silicon grommet on hte top of the head causing it coupled with the shorter shaft making inflow of liquid that much easier.

 

[roasted]

I have NOT tried the evod head in the protank but I have seen other people complain of flooding when using it. I have suspected that it was indeed not a good seal with the silicon grommet on hte top of the head causing it coupled with the shorter shaft making inflow of liquid that much easier.

Good to know. I found a few people recommending it for less of an airy draw, but I couldn't help but to think there was something there in relation to why I'm flooding so bad. That being said, I'm using the original Protank head and still flooding, yet this one I didn't touch.

All of this is growing to be rather frustrating. I can't help but to keep going back to my 808 since the cartomizer system seems simple, just a bit of a pain due to their limited liquid space. Someone recommended to me a cartomizer with a tank, so I'm looking into that now. Not to change direction of the thread, but hey, I created it, so... any recommendations for some non-plastic carto tanks?

 

[HughDaHand]

I have NOT tried the evod head in the protank but I have seen other people complain of flooding when using it. I have suspected that it was indeed not a good seal with the silicon grommet on hte top of the head causing it coupled with the shorter shaft making inflow of liquid that much easier.

If this is the case you can take the silicon gromment off another head and add it to the one you are using upside down. So you would have 2 gromments one normal and one upside down. This is what I do to use the eVod head and coils on my t3's.

Getting these bottom feeders rewicked with cotton can be tricky at first. You have to make sure the wicking material is totally filling the wick holes in the head, but not so full that it cuts off juice flow. I use cotton balls and had a lot of leakers starting out, but now almost every one I rewick now works great. I also use my own coils which are a little bit bigger wraps so that I don't need flavor killing wicks on top. Also fluffing the cotton alot where the wicks enter the head helps.

If i had a descent video camera I would make a nice little tutorial on how I do it. With the webcam on my laptop you would be lucky to see the coil head. I am so spoiled with cotton wicks that I cant even stand to use silica wicks and will rip apart unused coils just to get rid of it.

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

You need to plug up the wick hole enough to Limit the amount of juice entering your wick chamber. Just think about how juice flows in the Protank and you will figure out how it floods, thus how to stop the flooding.

 

[roasted]

Thanks for the insight guys. I appreciate it. Unfortunately everywhere I look Protank heads are sold out in 2.5ohm, so I'll wait a bit and revisit this. Until then, I have a new idea in mind. I mentioned earlier that I might want to try out the cartomizer tank option. I really, really like the vape I get from my 808's, I just wish I had more liquid capacity and whatnot. That's when a cartomizer tank was recommended to me. Downside is, everywhere I look they're plastic. Oh, but wait, what's this little guy here?

SMOKTech Pyrex DCTank Glass DCTank

A Pyrex tank for cartomizers? Nice, sign me up! Priced @ 13 bucks I can't sneeze at it. 3.5ml capacity. They have pre-punched cartomizers on here priced @ 10.50 for a 5 pack. Pretty much comes out to about 2 bucks per cartomizer. One user told me if he babies his cartmizer he can get 2 weeks out of it easily (meaning not chain vaping with zero breaks to burn it up, etc). This is looking like a decent alternative.

What do you guys think? Any cartomizer tank vapers out there to comment?

 

[HughDaHand]

I have been eyeing those smoktech pyrex tanks myself. My main concern with them is the fact that all the smoktech plactic tanks dont hold the carto very well and slide off really easy. Been thinking about getting one to try with some of these carto's. Boge F16 Tank Cartomizers 5 Box Deal

Also the pyrex tanks from ibtanked are very popular around here. IBTanked - Get Tanked With Us!

 

[roasted]

I have been eyeing those smoktech pyrex tanks myself. My main concern with them is the fact that all the smoktech plactic tanks dont hold the carto very well and slide off really easy. Been thinking about getting one to try with some of these carto's. Boge F16 Tank Cartomizers 5 Box Deal

Also the pyrex tanks from ibtanked are very popular around here. IBTanked - Get Tanked With Us!

Which... if they don't hold onto the carto... you'd be stuck with a pile of juice on the floor. Eh. Don't think I like that much... I cannot find many reviews or much user input in regard to the Smoktech Pyrex DCTanks. I'd love to hear more about them as I've got them in my cart ready to buy... but hate to take a blind shot since my vape budget has been nearly shot...

EDIT - Just spotted this:

A great advancement in the next evolution in DCT's from SMOKtech, introducing the SMOK Pyrex Glass 6ml Dual Coil Tank (DCT)!

These new tanks are made with Pyrex Glass and sheathed in aluminum - the tank itself has gorgeous chrome end caps but it is integrated as one piece. The aluminum sheath is windowed as you can see in the pictures to the left so that you can easily see your juice level. The Pyrex material of course provides greater protection for the use of certain acidic juices. This will also provide a cleaner vape with use. The bottom of the tank has locking flange divets that actually lock your carto in securely. All of our SMOKtech DCT cartomizer consummables have matching divets to lock.

Source - http://www.gotvapes.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=151_291&products_id=1668

 

[HughDaHand]

This tread might interest you. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tanks/412282-review-time-smoktech-pyrex-dct-tank.html

It seems the locking only locks the carto from spinning in the tank and not from pulling out of the tank. It might not even be a problem with these tanks tho its hard to say as they are still fairly new so not many reviews on them yet. I just know my old plastic smoktech tank would fall off the carto if i would breath in its direction. It just needed a slightly smaller hole to hold the carto tighter so they may have fixed that.

 

[roasted]

This tread might interest you. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tanks/412282-review-time-smoktech-pyrex-dct-tank.html

It seems the locking only locks the carto from spinning in the tank and not from pulling out of the tank. It might not even be a problem with these tanks tho its hard to say as they are still fairly new so not many reviews on them yet. I just know my old plastic smoktech tank would fall off the carto if i would breath in its direction. It just needed a slightly smaller hole to hold the carto tighter so they may have fixed that.

I actually saw that review as well. The only thing I'm confused of in regard to the locking tanks is whether or not that's a proprietary thing to the Smoktech Pyrex DCTank itself. As in, do I have to be super cautious when getting cartomizers for this tank? Do I need to specifically buy Smoktech's so they fit and lock and whatnot? I like having choices and alternatives. I hate buying anything that could somehow be proprietary. Proprietary only screams "will jack prices up soon enough" to me.

But hey, if that gizmo is compatible with other cartomizers from other brands, I'd be all in.

 

[CloudZ]

Clueless
ProTank is BOTTOM COIL

Problem is Not enough wicking material to contorl flow. While vaping, you are removing fluid build up through evaporation. When idle it is over saturating and working past the wick. Pop the Post off and add a thickness of rolled cotton and test.

Yo ......... You are misunderstanding me. When you fill them, they are inverted. You fill them too much, the juice level rises in this inverted orientation and flows into the center tube. I have T3's and evods and they fill the exact same way.


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[HughDaHand]

Well the guy in that review was using boge XL cartos but he had to put them in upside down. It is made for flanged carto's with 2 flat sides on them. The flat sides on the flange is where the locking comes in as they fit into a recess on the bottom of the tank that also has 2 flat sides. This keeps the carto from spinning as you screw it into your battery.

Looks like in order for him to use that boge xl carto he had to put it in upside down as it was slightly shorter and let the driptip go into the recess on the bottom. The flanged boge cartos I linked earlier should work also. I am not a big fan of the smoktech cartos myself, not really sure why tho, maybe its the price difference.

 

[roasted]

Well the guy in that review was using boge XL cartos but he had to put them in upside down. It is made for flanged carto's with 2 flat sides on them. The flat sides on the flange is where the locking comes in as they fit into a recess on the bottom of the tank that also has 2 flat sides. This keeps the carto from spinning as you screw it into your battery.

Looks like in order for him to use that boge xl carto he had to put it in upside down as it was slightly shorter and let the driptip go into the recess on the bottom. The flanged boge cartos I linked earlier should work also. I am not a big fan of the smoktech cartos myself, not really sure why tho, maybe its the price difference.

Is the price difference really that great though? What I'm looking at is a 50 cent difference when comparing five packs....

But at any rate, as long as they have the two flat edges I should be good? I just wanted to make sure it wasn't a proprietary design that they have licensed where nobody can make it except them. That's all. Those situations are just riddled with problems imo.

I think I might nab this gizmo... It seems like it may remove some of my atomizer frustrations. I love the way my 808 cartomizers vape so if this delivers I'm game!

I suppose I should stick to standard resistance to be safe?

 

[roasted]

12:10 on this video doesn't exactly excite me:

The SMOK Pyrex Glass DCT Review - YouTube

Seems like it's easier than I anticipated to accidentally pull the tank off of the carto...

EDIT - Screw it. Instead of waiting on more things to get shipped in and messing with new tanks, I'm just going to go to the vape shop tomorrow and pick up some Protank heads. I hate to junk the Protank when so many people swear by it. I need to just stick with the stock head and not tinker with it and see how things go. In terms of costs, the Protank heads are a few nickels cheaper than cartomizers for the carto-tank alternative, so even if I don't build my own heads (which has turned out to be somewhat of a fail so far), I'll still not be spending more than the carto-tank path even if I just buy brand new heads each time I need them.

Fortunately if I go to the vape shop to pick up Protank heads I can always inquire about the Smoktech Pyrex DCT Tank and see it in person. If the price is right and the pull weight to pull the thing apart isn't huge, maybe I'll come home with it. If not, the Protank heads still might be the winner.

I need to stop having such crazy A.D.D. when it comes to this crap. I post about an issue and before I know it I'm in left field buying other gear without even trying to resolve the original issue. Blah.

 

[roasted]

Is it normal to get flooding even on an unmodified head? I just pulled one out I didn't alter and while it vapes nicely it floods in no time... Makes me wonder if the new head I hope to pick up tomorrow will matter....