Can't get into 28 gauge

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StarsAndBars

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Hey guys! I've spent a little time working on micro coils now, and I've finally run out of 30 gauge kanthal. Before getting started I bought a couple yards of 32, 30, and 28 gauge to see what worked best for me. I realized quickly that 32 gauge wasn't for me, and since I'm fresh out of 30, I've turned to 28 gauge. A lot of the experienced modders seem to prefer 28 gauge, or even larger and I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong.

I'm currently around 10/11 wraps @1.6 ohms and giving 5 volts on an MVP, which is skirting around the danger zone regarding amps. If I have it right, it should be around 15 watts yes? I've been using this setup for around 5-6 hours and so far I gotta say I prefer 30 gauge hands down. 30 seems to heat much more quickly and produce quite a bit more vapor. Is this due to the fact that I'm using a regulated device? I think I remember reading a thread about an unrelated topic where someone said this makes a difference.

I guess the reason I'm asking is because I've been considering getting a mech and playing around with sub-ohm (out of boredom I guess), but now I'm wondering if this is what I'm looking for. I'm not trying to post cloud vids on youtube or anything, nor am I looking to go crazy low ohm, and I' ve never really gotten into 'lung inhales'. I generally take about 3-4 second draws but with 28 gauge taking about an extra 1.5 seconds to heat up the results aren't stellar.

Is this just the nature of the beast with 28 gauge? Would I need to take long lung enhales and go uber low ohm to enjoy 28 gauge? Thanks for any help guys. I'm ready to learn.
 
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crxess

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Your problem is using to thick a wire selection for to high ohms choice on an APV.
Well, 3 problems.

28 Ga works decent (around) 1.3ohms and lower. The resistance causes faster heating. The higher you go the more time required to heat.
Safe cutoff mods have a tough time with this.

On the opposite end 32 heats quickly and to much power will give Hot harsh hits.
 

Sirius

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Your problem is using to thick a wire selection for to high ohms choice on an APV.
Well, 3 problems.

28 Ga works decent (around) 1.3ohms and lower. The resistance causes faster heating. The higher you go the more time required to heat.
Safe cutoff mods have a tough time with this.

On the opposite end 32 heats quickly and to much power will give Hot harsh hits.
That is why I only use a mech mod .. Oh .. no offence to the Provari crowd.
I fail to see the VV/VW preference but to each his own.
 

Enoch777

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What crxess said,

I wrapped micros for use on APVs using 28GA for the longest time. Still do and will continue doing so. I always wrapped mine to be around 1.2Ω to 1.5Ω however. It does tend to take a while for anything nearing 1.8Ω to heat up however.

Try smaller diameter wraps and really get them tight and close together. This will help with the heat-up time. And no, you're not pushing your amps too high. Not really something to worry about on an APV anyway. 15 watts / 3.1 continuous amp draw is just fine, not that you're MVP would even fire it if it wasn't.

I use 28GA on my mech as well and since you get your voltage straight off the battery the heat-up time is well, non-existant even with a thicker wire. Definitely one of the reasons I wanted to get a mech in the first place as well as having the ability to try different, more complicated builds that simply require sub-ohm coils.

Take your time, try what I said about smaller diameter and tighter coils. Shoot for 1.3Ω and you won't have any issues. When you feel its time to venture into sub-ohm you'll know it because you'll have a sub-ohm coil built and ready to go but no way to fire it, at least that's how it was in my case. I spent at least 6 months re-building on my APVs before that happened, though.

Vape well, vape often :vapor:
 

VaPreis

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I think if you got wrapping microcoils down, you should try building for a little less resistance. The MVP2 seems to be pretty forgiving here.

Last night I rebuilt my wife's Rocket tank so she could use it on one of my mechs. My coil ended up at 1.1Ω. (I was shooting for an 1Ω so I was pretty happy). She's not entirely comfortable with using/adjusting a mech yet, so I also threw it on her MVP2. It fired it off no problem and actually vaped very nicely. It didn't have the "instant on" effect like the mech, but the lag was far from disappointing.

I'm not saying you need to take it that low if you're uncomfortable with it, but thought you'd like to know that you have a little more wiggle room to get a quicker heating coil.
 
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toughguitar

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I am also not a big fan of 28g wire. Any resistance above 1.2 oms with 28g does not perform well for me. If used to sub ohm it works great and heats up more quickly. The problem I have with this setup is the warmer vape and increase in heat. For me, it heats the juice at a higher temperature and the juice loses some flavor. My sweet spot is 30g at about 1.3-1.6 ohms, great flavor and good vapor production.
 

sky4it

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I am also not a big fan of 28g wire. Any resistance above 1.2 oms with 28g does not perform well for me. If used to sub ohm it works great and heats up more quickly. The problem I have with this setup is the warmer vape and increase in heat. For me, it heats the juice at a higher temperature and the juice loses some flavor. My sweet spot is 30g at about 1.3-1.6 ohms, great flavor and good vapor production.

yeah, ditto, i was thinking of trying 29 guage next time if they make it.
but 30 guage on my Russian 91 has it vaping like a steam engine, I dunno about the smaller wraps, mines about 2.4 mm which is larger then some, but IT GIVES YOU MORE COTTON WICK IF IT IS THICKER, so vape better? I dunno
 

spawnsharks

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There are a couple of things to clarify regarding your MVP and lower resistance coils. Yes, it will read them.. yes it will fire. However, it is regulating it to the safe zone for your device, so even if your math says it should be firing at 11w, it will not be. It will automatically drop the voltage to what is considered safe for the device.

This does, in fact, make it a great way for beginners to learn all about wrapping coils. No risk of stepping outside of the amperage rating of the battery!

As for 28ga.. Like others here, I am a fan of it on my RDA, but for my Russian, I like 30ga microcoils.
 

rogergendron1

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with 28 guage you need to make your coils below the 1.5 ohm marker ! anything 1.5 or higher will take a long time to heat up due to its thickness. the thicker the wire the slower it heats ... well to a degree... you see a thicker wire thats 1ohm will heat way faster than a thinner wire thats 1 ohm.. i think there is a tipping point ti where the amount of amps needed to quickly heat the wire goes way up once you pass acertain ohm, seee a real thick wire will need more amps to heat than a thinner wire but offer less resistance iif you can provide those amps and give off a highr wattage, the reason you cant heat it up fast enough is that the mvp cant push the amps needed to head it up in an instant as easy it could a thinner wire of the same ohm.

think of it like a fuse ... the fuse with a thicker wire needs more amps to get red hot and blow ... the fuse with the thinner wire needs less amps to get red hot and blow.

the wire has an amp limmit because of its thickness, so even if you wrapped a 100ohm coil with thin it would just blow in the middle once it reached its amp limmit whatever that would be. where as a thicker wire of the same ohms could handle more amps before melting

i personaly love 28 guage because i stay around the 1 to 1.3 ohm single coil aria...... so for me all i need is 5 to 8 wraps of 28 guage and boom perfect. its also real thick so the same coil can be used repeatedly over and over again ! i pull my cotton dry burn rinse in the sink and stuff a new cotton in. i have been using the same coil for a month now and it still reads the same 1.1 ohms !!!

28 can be hard to work with cause its not as flexable as 32... but before you wrap your coil heat it up red hot then cool it fast under cool water, this makes it way way more flexablee and it will maintai its shap once bent instead of trying to spring back, the heating and rapid cooling removes the spring properties of metal.

i sit at my desk and hold the wire then heat the whole thing red hot with a butane torch lighter then once 90% of it is red i dunk it in a glass of cool water. boom instant twist tie LOL
 
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