You're out of control... use it and be happy
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Can't use new kayfun...destroying provari center pin
- Thread starter Moonbogg
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You're out of control... use it and be happy
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Those are not machining defects.
Clearly Screw Driver Marks(puckers)
They are what happens when a screw driver slips out of the groove.
Did you tighten the pin?
Even an emery board will fix that in seconds.
Edit - Apologies for repeating - Quick browsing while grabbing Dinner. I see the cause was covered.
I keep a Set of Hobby files for just such occasions. Very handy little files.
Clearly Screw Driver Marks(puckers)
They are what happens when a screw driver slips out of the groove.
Did you tighten the pin?
Even an emery board will fix that in seconds.
Edit - Apologies for repeating - Quick browsing while grabbing Dinner. I see the cause was covered.
I keep a Set of Hobby files for just such occasions. Very handy little files.
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well, there would be no reason to take the kayfun back to the shop since filing the pin down would fix the issue.
you're saying "toss away" as if the item is broken and unusable. it's just the pin --that's replaceable for 6-8 bucks, if filing it down is too daunting of a task-- that needs some TLC. the shop would just replace the pin. so, those are the two options: spending 30 seconds cleaning up the pin. or taking time out of the day, heading to the shop, explaining the situation, and getting a replacement pin.
personally, I like to handle things myself. that's why I use rebuildables. But the OP isnt me. Either way, this isnt a big deal...you speak as if the kayfun should be thrown in the trash.
OK, I fixed it beautifully. Took a fine polishing knife sharpening stone and flattened it shiny, deburred/chamfered all edges. Very smooth now.
I built a coil and tried it out. I noticed something odd. There is no o-ring for the top piece of the chimney. I thought there should be. its pretty air tight without one, but not 100%. First attempt I got dry hits, but refilled and its working now. Hits like a train! Even with the tight draw it has. Vapor is thick = over nic'd instantly.
Could the initial "dry hits" have been the cotton breaking in? It tasted dry and I was afraid the wicking wasn't working, but its hitting now. Not bad for first attempt.
Also, I can't tell how full it is. All stainless. I might have to use the plastic tank piece. God i'm so noob and confused. Least its hitting good.
I built a coil and tried it out. I noticed something odd. There is no o-ring for the top piece of the chimney. I thought there should be. its pretty air tight without one, but not 100%. First attempt I got dry hits, but refilled and its working now. Hits like a train! Even with the tight draw it has. Vapor is thick = over nic'd instantly.
Could the initial "dry hits" have been the cotton breaking in? It tasted dry and I was afraid the wicking wasn't working, but its hitting now. Not bad for first attempt.
Also, I can't tell how full it is. All stainless. I might have to use the plastic tank piece. God i'm so noob and confused. Least its hitting good.
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Did you saturate the wick with juice before you put it all back together?
You have to do that, saturate the cotton wick, or you will get dry hits to start with.
You have to do that, saturate the cotton wick, or you will get dry hits to start with.
Yes I did. Here's the specs of the build.
28ga kanthal A-1
about 12 wraps @ .078" ID
1.8 ohms
Provari @ 5v
13.89 watts
It hits pretty good, but the coil seems like it has too much mass. I just think it takes too long to fire up. Something tells me I might like a 30ga build at the same ohms. There would be less surface area (right?) so the vape should be warmer, correct? Since the same wattage would be generated over a smaller surface area with the 30ga and less wraps, the vape should be warmer and the coil more responsive. Sound right? I'm just doing thought experiments and testing if I understand this stuff or at least if I'm starting to understand it.
Ohh. Lowered the voltage to 4.5 and the flavor seems to have come out just a bit more. Maybe placebo, but just saying. It seems to vape just as well at least at lower voltage.
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No that wasn't at all what I said. I have 2 authentic Kayfuns, 3 Russian 91%, and several clones as well as authentic and clone drippers. None of my authentics needed work before I could use them besides building coils. My clones all needed some work except 1. Authentics aren't cheap. I never said throw anything away. I said another option was the OP could take it back to the store. The OP mentioned she/he lives right by the store. Taking something back to where you paid them $100 is not the same as throwing it away. Sure the OP could file it down. That's an option. Its easy to do. But the OP may not want to do that. It's up to the OP.
Geeze.
Lower your voltage down to about 4.2 or even lower and test.
The dry, possibly burnt taste, you got initially was because your voltage was to high.
I run a 1.4 ohm coil, 28g Kanthal, and rarely go over 3.8 volts and normally I'm at 3.4 or 3.5 volts.
Just because you read of others running at high voltages does mean you will like it or get the best vape at those higher voltages. That is why they came out with variable voltage, variable wattage, devices. Different strokes for different folks.
The dry, possibly burnt taste, you got initially was because your voltage was to high.
I run a 1.4 ohm coil, 28g Kanthal, and rarely go over 3.8 volts and normally I'm at 3.4 or 3.5 volts.
Just because you read of others running at high voltages does mean you will like it or get the best vape at those higher voltages. That is why they came out with variable voltage, variable wattage, devices. Different strokes for different folks.
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Thanks. Being so new, I kind of feel the need to copycat the heavy hitters. They use high voltage, that's must be best! Maybe not though I suppose. I'll try lower, thanks.
If you could please advise on the following, it would ease my noob mind to have an answer.
This unit works off of air pressure equalization to prevent flooding. A sealed evaporation chamber is necessary for that, however, the top cap for the evaporation chamber came with no O-ring and I see no O-ring in the manual for it. I blew in it while plugging the chimney hole, and a tiny bit of air can be forced through. This won't cause leaking and flooding if the unit sits for a while? That they wouldn't have an O-ring there seems odd to me.
There is never an O-ring between the lower, larger, chimney section and the upper, thinner, chimney section on a Kayfun. It isn't needed. There is direct passages, holes/openings, between the tank and the chimney, coil, wick, area. IE the Juice channels.
Because all of these bottom coil atomizers work on a negative pressure system you have to drop the pressure in the chimney area to allow juice to flow in. That pressure in the chimney area is dropped when you draw on the drip tip causing a lower pressure in the chimney and a higher pressure in the tank. So the juice flows in through the channels or around the threads of the two chimney parts. Once you stop drawing on the drip tip the pressure in the chimney goes back up to whatever the air pressure is for the environment you are in. When that happens you will see air bubbles, or only one air bubble, go into the tank because now there is lower pressure in the tank. The air bubble going into the tank is equalizing the pressure between the 2.
Just like a straw in a glass of water. If you put a straw in a glass of water and put your finger over the top of it and then take it out of the glass water stays in the straw until you remove your finger. The water can't flow out because to do so something, air, has to replace the water as it flows out of the straw.
Because all of these bottom coil atomizers work on a negative pressure system you have to drop the pressure in the chimney area to allow juice to flow in. That pressure in the chimney area is dropped when you draw on the drip tip causing a lower pressure in the chimney and a higher pressure in the tank. So the juice flows in through the channels or around the threads of the two chimney parts. Once you stop drawing on the drip tip the pressure in the chimney goes back up to whatever the air pressure is for the environment you are in. When that happens you will see air bubbles, or only one air bubble, go into the tank because now there is lower pressure in the tank. The air bubble going into the tank is equalizing the pressure between the 2.
Just like a straw in a glass of water. If you put a straw in a glass of water and put your finger over the top of it and then take it out of the glass water stays in the straw until you remove your finger. The water can't flow out because to do so something, air, has to replace the water as it flows out of the straw.
Cloud-chasers think everything should be made for them. I do the opposite of what they say, and buy the mods they hate. We average vapers probably outnumber them 1000 to 1, yet they think they are special.
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That was clear, and here are my thoughts. First, if they don't have an O-ring and they still work, then obviously I am prepared to accept that. But what would happen if you drilled a hole in the chimney right where the chimney tube meets the top cap? Would having a hole there present an issue? A non sealed mating surface is the same as having a tiny hole. It ruins the vacuum effect because air can escape into the tank from that crack.
Same thing with the straw in a glass. You lift the straw out of the glass with your finger on it to keep the water in, due to vacuum effect, but what if the straw had a crack in it? The vacuum would be broken, correct? That's my concern with the chimney not having an O-ring. Pressure differential cannot be respected with a crack in the system.
If the tank is full and left sitting up right, the juice will fall due to gravity and attempt to fill the chimney, but the vacuum effect within the juice tank will not let it. My concern is that this vacuum effect is essentially broken without the use of an O-ring on the chimney, and it should be broken the way I see it. The fit and finish of the two chimney parts is very good, so the metal to metal seal is pretty tight, but not 100%. I am thinking if juice is left in the tank for a long time, a slow leak may develop. The viscosity of the juice may stop this from becoming a problem however.
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you have an o-ring embedded in the center of your topcap, where the chimney enters, correct?
You are over thinking this. There are Millions of Kayfun's and other similar atomizers being used all around the world and none of them leak if they are assembled correctly and the tanks have no air leaks.
The OP isn't talking about the Top Cap. He is talking about the top part of the chimney where it screws into the lower part of the chimney.
Yes. That O-ring you showed, combined with the bottom base O-ring, should create an air tight chamber, but its not perfectly air tight. The chimney is not sealed where the chimney body meets its cap. There is a crack in the system and they rely on metal to metal sealing faces to maintain the vacuum.
I may draw a picture to better explain myself.
Observe below. The chimney cap is not O-ring sealed. The liquid tank is a low pressure system. The air outside of it is regular pressure, which is higher. Without an O-ring, air can get sucked into that unsealed mating surface, causing tank pressure to increase and fluid will enter the evaporation chamber. It would happen very slowly, but if any scratches or any imperfections were present on those mating faces of the chimney, then you can expect flooding and leaks since the air could easily enter the tank at that point.
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well, the stock setup works fairly well, but occasionally the o-rings can become deformed from use/juice and need to be replaced, however. the red silicone o-rings might be more robust and durable, if you can find them.
protip: juice your o-rings and threads. seems to help seal things up.
the SOV V2 kit has a system where the chimney threads into the topcap and there's a fat o-ring as well that sits on top of the threaded section. it really locks everything together. seems a little better design. I have the kit and it's very nice.
protip: juice your o-rings and threads. seems to help seal things up.
the SOV V2 kit has a system where the chimney threads into the topcap and there's a fat o-ring as well that sits on top of the threaded section. it really locks everything together. seems a little better design. I have the kit and it's very nice.
Initial Taste was likely New cotton and you not ready for it.
Generally letting the Wick soak for a while will fully permeate the cotton and reduce any off taste. Otherwise a few draws to 1/2 tank and it is ready to go.
Cotton is NOT self healing - If it burns, it is burnt for good and likely done.
To High Voltage is less a factor as long as the wicking is wet. Juice will scorch faster than wet cotton.
I normally wet, Chimney Vape, Repeat several times before ever installing the tank. Like to make sure everything is working smoothly.
Generally letting the Wick soak for a while will fully permeate the cotton and reduce any off taste. Otherwise a few draws to 1/2 tank and it is ready to go.
Cotton is NOT self healing - If it burns, it is burnt for good and likely done.
To High Voltage is less a factor as long as the wicking is wet. Juice will scorch faster than wet cotton.
I normally wet, Chimney Vape, Repeat several times before ever installing the tank. Like to make sure everything is working smoothly.
I think my wicks aren't fully touching the deck. Instead, they are just stuck to the walls, but its still working. I got some exciting new juices being delivered today, so I look forward to a fresh wicking, all the way to the deck properly this time. Must say, this unit produces more vapor than the Aerotank Mega, even with a build that may not be perfectly optimized. Pretty happy with it and it looks nice.
EDIT: I just tasted a bit of cotton. I think she's empty. Who needs a window?
EDIT: I just tasted a bit of cotton. I think she's empty. Who needs a window?
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