Caravela + Crown RDA (18350 mode) - Questions about little vapour being produced

[raz0r]

Hi everyone,

So I decided to take the next step again after moving from an iTaste V3 + Protank 3 to GP Paps + Terminator C RBA.

This time I've gone with the dripping route to see what all the fuss was about and got myself a Caravela Clone + Crown RDA!

Looks pretty sweeet in the attachment! (bottom cap needs a brass polish though )

Now I have a question regarding this build. I most definitely want to be running it in 18350 mode (I don't mind the changing of batteries on a regular basis at the moment), as it is a nice, compact and lightweight size for me and makes it easy to carry around.

The dual coils were done at the store and I tested the ohms by connecting it to my iTaste V3 and it was giving me a reading of 0.7ohms - However, everytime I fire it up, I'm not getting that heavy vapour from it like I was getting from my single coil Terminator C at 1.1ohms. Not sure if the dual coil build at 0.7ohm has anything to do with it or the fact that the battery is small.

Even if I close off the airflow. It also seems like one side is firing better than the other (which fires half the vapour of the other coil).

It's not the batteries as I've tried charging both of them fully and starting it up but get the same issue.

Can someone guide me on what the best setup is on a single 18350 battery (single / dual coil, what total ohms I need and ideally what ready made coil wire I need to use too) please?

I can already feel the difference in the flavour and hit as the vapour feels much cleaner but just need to get the dual coil dripping setup round my head.

Thanks!

 

[30+Years]

I don't think a 350 battery is safe to use under 1 ohm.

(looks like .9 ohms)

 

[CreepyLady]

Your ohms are to low and you are exceeding your battery's capabilities. Up to an identical style build, two 2.6 Ohm coils will equal out to a 1.3Ohm final resistance and you will find much happier performance. (Or if you are like me, you may find that a single micro at 1.1-1.4 is pretty happy on a smaller battery)

Also Ohms law - make sure you know that you are not exceeding what your battery can do. Continuously firing the above coil on an 18350 is not a good idea. Your C rating is important, on most 18350 is around 6 amps, so just to give you an idea- at 4.2V/0.7O = exactly 6 Amps. You would not want to exceed 75% of your battery's C rating(so not over 4.5 Amps) in general so - 4.2V/1.3 O= 3.23 Amps which will make your battery happy

 

[Aawa]

I don't think a 350 battery is safe to use under 1 ohm.

(looks like .9 ohms)

Depends on the 18350 battery he is using. The red efest 18350 battery is rated for 5 amp draw, which means it can go as low as .8 ohms. The purple efest 18350 battery is rated for 10 amp draw which means it can go as low as .4 ohms.

Now for your atty. Make sure all the screws to the posts are tighten down correctly. Whenever heat is introduced to the coils, it will slowly loosen the screws to the post and cause uneven firing of the coils. Also if you want vapor production you will want more air to be introduced into the atomizers. So use the bigger air holes to get more vapor production, however be aware that you will lose some flavor when adding more air into the atomizer chamber. So you will have to find a happy balance that you like since the Crown as air flow control.

 

[itskohler]

I'd never use anything lower than 1ohm on a 350 series battery. This is a preferencial thing because I care about safety and would prefer to have as much of a buffer between a skin graph and my vaping as possible.

 

[CreepyLady]

Depends on the 18350 battery he is using. The red efest 18350 battery is rated for 5 amp draw, which means it can go as low as .8 ohms. The purple efest 18350 battery is rated for 10 amp draw which means it can go as low as .4 ohms.

Now for your atty. Make sure all the screws to the posts are tighten down correctly. Whenever heat is introduced to the coils, it will slowly loosen the screws to the post and cause uneven firing of the coils. Also if you want vapor production you will want more air to be introduced into the atomizers. So use the bigger air holes to get more vapor production, however be aware that you will lose some flavor when adding more air into the atomizer chamber. So you will have to find a happy balance that you like since the Crown as air flow control.

This is not correct. You should not exceed 75% of your C Rating. This allows room for error, if you are at your max C rating and something goes wrong you are not in a good place. The point is not to try and kill your battery with every vape. If you want to be in the sub ohm realm you need to go 24-30amp batteries.

A 5 Amp 18350 should not have a build exceeding 3.75 Amps. What you are suggesting is kinda like saying your car CAN drive at 30MPH in 1st gear and it will not cause any harm if you always drive 30 in first gear. When in actuality the "prime" speed for shifting may be 15 for the best performance while causing the least wear and tear.

 

[itskohler]

Best battery analogy ever.

 

[Aawa]

Continous draw rating is safe to use 100% of the time. The burst/pulse draw, which is higher than the continous draw, is what shouldn't be pushed to the limit.

So for your analogy the 5amp continous draw would be driving your car at 15mph at first gear all the time, and pushing the burst draw of 6.4amps is driving your car at 30mph at first gear all the time.

 

[itskohler]

There is a reason why if you research using 18350 batteries with sub ohm builds you'll see more people on the "Don't do it" camp. Why push your limits if you don't have to?

 

[Aawa]

There is a reason why if you research using 18350 batteries with sub ohm builds you'll see more people on the "Don't do it" camp. Why push your limits if you don't have to?

I am a subohmer. 99% of the time I rock my Sony VTC4 18650 batteries as I'm down lower than .4 ohms(usually at .15 - .35) on most occasions on my drippers. However I do have a Kayfun clone that I have built out to .8 ohms that I run with a red efest 18350 battery when on road trips for the car.

You can sub-ohm with the 18350 batteries but you NEED to be 100% sure you are doing it safely and within the battery's limits and make sure you are not pushing the Burst draw limits of the battery which will put an amazing amount of stress on the battery. Saying "I'd never use anything lower than 1ohm on a 350 series battery." is a preference and not accurate on if it is safe or not.

 

[itskohler]

Did I say anything about it being accurate or realted to safety at all? No? Hm.

 

[raz0r]

Thanks for the reply guys, some good insight on what you've all said.

That chart is very handy, thanks!

I use the 18350 red battery - I'm on the move quite alot and prefer to use a very small mod. I've seen alot of people rocking an 18350 + a dripper so I want to be able to do the same really.

I'd like to know about what I can do with my setup now that I have some good information. I have a pack of ready-made coils provided to me with my previous mod purchase so should I just throw away the coils in the Crown build and run a single coil on 1.1ohm for now?

 

[Aawa]

Try tightening the screws down some first to see if you can get your build working.

If you want to really jump into it, try your hand at building a coil or dual coil setup. I personally prefer dual coil setups as I like the warmer vapes and more flavor it produces.

 

[pianman6954]

I like the car analogy, the reality is that sub ohm isn't the wonder child of cloud chasing, micro and nanos in the 1.3-1.4 arena on a good mod will produces respectable vapor.

 

[raz0r]

I've tightened the screws down, still getting half the vapour of one coil compared to the other. Could that coil be shorting out?

Regards the wire with this atty, what type of wire should I use? I have a readymade 1.1ohm wire lying around but will I have to use the standard 28gauge kanthal ones? I'll try the micro coil build with a ready-made non-resistant to resistant 1.1ohm wire and see how that performs (if I'm good to use it and also since it's the only wire I have lying around right now).

Thanks for you help guys, really appreciate every bit of information from you all.

 

[raz0r]

OK so I bought some 28 gauge kanthal wire yesterday, but I've done the following:

- 11 wraps on a 1.8mm drill bit single coil: comes to 1.2ohms
- 11 wraps on a 1.8mm drill bit dual coil: comes to 0.7ohms

- 11 wraps on a 1.4mm drill bit dual coil: comes to 0.7ohms

Tested on a iTaste VV V3 so not sure how accurate it is reading.

How can it be possible that I'm getting the same ohm reading for a 1.8mm and a 1.4mm bit?

I'm trying to get a 0.9 - 1ohm reading on a dual coil as I'm running this in 18350 mode. Anyone got any suggestions? Do I need thinner wire?

 

[itskohler]

Just make it 7 or 8 wraps. I vape at 5 ohms using dual coils Alat 5 wraps

Sent from my GS5.

 

[itskohler]

Sorry, red light response so it was quick and incomplete. Try wrapping 6 wraps in a larger bit.

Sent from my GS5.

 

[raz0r]

Sorry, red light response so it was quick and incomplete. Try wrapping 6 wraps in a larger bit.

Sent from my GS5.

Thanks, I'll give that a shot. Is this dual coil and on an 18350 battery?

EDIT: OK, so I think I've cracked it! 10 wraps each on a 1.8mm drill bit comes to 1ohms exact.

I used a single piece of wire (didn't split into two). 10 wraps on the first coil, push the starting end of the wire through the negative post, and the longer side through centre positive post, 10 wraps on the other side (slightly tricky to work with but need patience) and pushed the last end through the final negative post.

Job done. Vaping smoothly as of this moment with the same amount of clouds! Not getting that harsh hit from a 0.7ohm dual coil build either - Flavour's tasting better!

 

[raz0r]

Sorry, I was meant to say 2.4mm drill bit not 1.8mm!