This is my first experiment in casting a JB with urethane resin and my first touch switch build. I also incorporated the wickless feed system. Nothing really special but it was interesting none the less.
This is the two brands of silicone molding putty I used...the yellow Amazing Putty cures faster and is tougher. The pink putty from Sugarcraft Inc. is a slower curing silicone and is more flexible. Either one would work but I just had both so I used them both.
I first did a test of the Casting Craft resin available at Michaels craft store which is a Polyester resin. It cured crystal clear with no air bubbles but it smells exactly like Bondo body filler for cars even after it cures. They show on the can that you can make fake ice cubes with it but I dont think I would want that smelly stuff in my drink. The resin I finally used was the Polyurethane resin from Alumilite Corp.
They have several types so I tried the crystal clear resin. You really need a vacuum or pressure chamber to degas this type or you will end up with air bubbles like I did. Also needed is a digital scale as the two parts need to be exactly equal by weight not volume. You will see some of the parts of the mod will look white due to the air bubbles. That is because I didnt get the mix right as I have a cheapo scale. It still hardens but its really a harden foam basically. Get the type resin you dont need to degas is your best bet if trying this.
What I did was took a rectangle chunk of blue modeling clay(also from Alumilite) and squeeze and shaped it to fit my hand perfectly. Then I formed the silicone putty around the clay and made a mold.
I used an aluminum tube a little bigger than a 18650 battery and molded two silicone cylinders to use for the internal cavity for the battery and 8ml juice bottle. First I made a shell inside the mold by pouring enough resin to make about a 1/16" floor and walls in 5 seperate pours as shown here.
Then I put the cylinders inside and poured the final casting of the main body.
This is what I ended up with...in the mold and removed.
Next I sanded and shaped the opening for the bottle, the surface that the cover mates to and smoothed out the inside somewhat. At that point I decided to make a wall on the cover that butts against the middle partition because I didnt want the bottle when pressed popping the cover off. Thats why it looks like it has a fin on the cover.
Next step I replaced the cylinders in the body after the modification for the fin, put the body back in the main mold and sprayed it with a release spray so the urethane would not fuse to the main body. Then I poured the resin to make the cover as
shown. The cover I must have got just right as it turned out clear with very few bubbles.
I removed it from the mold and while still together shaped the cover to match the body.
Then I removed the cylinder again and shaped and smooth the whole thing inside and out, drilled for the connector, LED and switch...and mounted the guide pins and magnets for the cover.
This is with all the internal components mounted. I
painted the outside with a paint for plastics but the
bubbles caused a bit of a problem with the paint...but since this is just an experiment I am not concerned with it.
For the contact points I made like two staple shaped contacts out of 13 AWG nichrome wire and embedded them in the body with resin.You can see it in the upper right corner.
This is a one way valve like a reed valve I made with the silicone putty. You press the bottle and the flaps close pushing the juice out the teflon tube to the cart...when you let go air will come in through the flaps to replace the juice used.
In the cart I drilled a hole for the tubing and made a silicone plug with a 1mm glass tube to the coil and removed the bridge of the atty just like I used for my "Saving the wickless atty" mod. The glass tube drips right on to the coil no matter what angle your holding the mod.
The nice thing about the resin is that if you mess up you can just mix up some more and fix it because the resin bonds to itself and you cant even see where the two meet...ie..you could pour 5 layers 5 separate days apart and it would look like one solid piece. To prevent that you just spray it with release spray.
It was a learning experience for sure and I think it would be easier just to pour a rough solid and shape it afterward...but hey...it was fun!!
OK...laugh away!!
This is the two brands of silicone molding putty I used...the yellow Amazing Putty cures faster and is tougher. The pink putty from Sugarcraft Inc. is a slower curing silicone and is more flexible. Either one would work but I just had both so I used them both.


I first did a test of the Casting Craft resin available at Michaels craft store which is a Polyester resin. It cured crystal clear with no air bubbles but it smells exactly like Bondo body filler for cars even after it cures. They show on the can that you can make fake ice cubes with it but I dont think I would want that smelly stuff in my drink. The resin I finally used was the Polyurethane resin from Alumilite Corp.
They have several types so I tried the crystal clear resin. You really need a vacuum or pressure chamber to degas this type or you will end up with air bubbles like I did. Also needed is a digital scale as the two parts need to be exactly equal by weight not volume. You will see some of the parts of the mod will look white due to the air bubbles. That is because I didnt get the mix right as I have a cheapo scale. It still hardens but its really a harden foam basically. Get the type resin you dont need to degas is your best bet if trying this.

What I did was took a rectangle chunk of blue modeling clay(also from Alumilite) and squeeze and shaped it to fit my hand perfectly. Then I formed the silicone putty around the clay and made a mold.

I used an aluminum tube a little bigger than a 18650 battery and molded two silicone cylinders to use for the internal cavity for the battery and 8ml juice bottle. First I made a shell inside the mold by pouring enough resin to make about a 1/16" floor and walls in 5 seperate pours as shown here.

Then I put the cylinders inside and poured the final casting of the main body.





shown. The cover I must have got just right as it turned out clear with very few bubbles.

I removed it from the mold and while still together shaped the cover to match the body.

Then I removed the cylinder again and shaped and smooth the whole thing inside and out, drilled for the connector, LED and switch...and mounted the guide pins and magnets for the cover.

This is with all the internal components mounted. I
painted the outside with a paint for plastics but the
bubbles caused a bit of a problem with the paint...but since this is just an experiment I am not concerned with it.




This is a one way valve like a reed valve I made with the silicone putty. You press the bottle and the flaps close pushing the juice out the teflon tube to the cart...when you let go air will come in through the flaps to replace the juice used.

In the cart I drilled a hole for the tubing and made a silicone plug with a 1mm glass tube to the coil and removed the bridge of the atty just like I used for my "Saving the wickless atty" mod. The glass tube drips right on to the coil no matter what angle your holding the mod.





The nice thing about the resin is that if you mess up you can just mix up some more and fix it because the resin bonds to itself and you cant even see where the two meet...ie..you could pour 5 layers 5 separate days apart and it would look like one solid piece. To prevent that you just spray it with release spray.
It was a learning experience for sure and I think it would be easier just to pour a rough solid and shape it afterward...but hey...it was fun!!
OK...laugh away!!