Cast Resin Juicer

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nicotime

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Sweet Nicotime - really nice! (I've been using my son's PlayDoh.... - Resin would hold up better! :))

Gotta ask about the wiring diagram in post #17 - did I miss another thread? 1/4" cube package with all the circuitry? Wow.... Can you post a link to it?

LOL...yeah my kids hid theirs from me long ago!

We had discussed touch switches on this thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/90438-touch-switch-building-info.html and some others I cant find at the moment. But yeah the main board for the switch components I used is only 4 holes x 4 holes and about 5/16 high actually...depending on which resistors you use. Now thats just for the switch..not including the contacts and other components and wiring. If you use the surface mount mosfet you can make it smaller that that probably...but my hands and eyes are too far gone for that.:laugh: Thanks Bubo

correction; I used 4 holes x 4 holes and not the 3x3 I had...still about 3/8" squared.
 
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nicotime

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Cool, that Touch Switch Thread is Chock Full of info.. Other than where to get that finger.... :)

Thats an easy find...I found one in my nose..
nose-picker.gif


It does cause a lot of misfires though.:facepalm:
 

Sci

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Question for you - I'm a big fan of MadVapes little itty bitty switches but they are rated at something like 50ma; am I correct in remembering that using the setup that is described above, I can use the tactile switch instead of a booger covered finger to activate the atty? :)

Here's how DNC used those tiny MV switches:
nico-dripv1schem.jpg
 

Scubabatdan

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:) I was JUST looking at that again this evening.. :)
Now that I have already hijacked this thread (Sorry NicoTime!), can someone tell me the difference between DnC's IRLU3114ZPbF MOSFET and ScubatDan's IFR8736PbF MOSFET? Size? Capabilities? Ability to tear space/time apart?

Well the physical dimension are:

IRLU3114ZPbF: (without solder legs)
5.97 x 6.35 x 2.18 mm

IFR8736PbF:
4.8 x 3.8 x 1.35 mm

The differences in capabilities are minimal, they each do pretty much the same, the IRLU3114ZPbF handles 16v gate to source voltage where the IFR8736PbF handles 20v gate to source voltage.
The IRLU3114ZPbF operating temprature is 175 C and the IFR8736PbF is 150 C. The IRLU3114ZPbF has a heat sink and the IFR8736PbF does not.
The IRLU3114ZPbF is an automotive mosfet and the IFR8736PbF is made for notebook processor power and DC to DC converting for Networking systems.
I suppose it depends on the application and intended use as to the size and integration level.
I like the IFR8736PbF pesonally as an integrated chip for a circuit board, but the IRLU3114ZPbF is more flexable in mounting for our application.

Both given enough power will tear a hole in the space time continuim :)

Hope this helps
Dan
 

Scubabatdan

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But they are both colored black right?

Jees Dan, you kill me..... :)
Okay, so size and heat sink seem to be the major differences as far as I (we) are concerned....
So now I am staring at the space above my battery on my AA Battery box......
8x7x12mm.. Hmmmmmmmmm...... Micro Surgery!

Actually different shades of grey, what is black anyway? :D
But the total absense of color, since black is not really a color. ROYGBIV ring a bell LOL

Sorry could not resist :)

But either would fit, to stay on topic.

Dan
 

nicotime

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Hey Bubo..dont worry about hijacking...its the way we learn..and have fun!!:laugh:

I asked Sci to see about your question on the tact switch as I wasnt sure you needed the other resistors or not for that...thanks Sci.

The IRF8736 definitely needs a steady hand soldering. I stood it up for one setup like this by soldering the multiple legs with some old cut off legs of an LED for stiffness running across them and in to a circuit board...untitled.jpg

The one single lead is very fragile but the resister mounted first then attached makes it sturdy enough. Thanks for the info too Dan. But I'm sticking with the 3114...I have had bigger gnats attack me than that 8736!!

I have sanded the paint off of my resin mod and filled the holes and wet sanded the whole thing and is now primed...so hopefully the new look will be better. I'll post it when I get it finished again.
 

Bubo

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See? This is why I just don't understand these things Nicotime....
Why would you have an 8 legged chip, and then solder all of them, save one, together?

Just doesn't make sense to me - that's why I am just following the pictures everyone posts...... (Well, that, and dagnabbit - I am going to make a lip enabled connector, just to see if I can fry my three remaining hairs off my head.. ) :D
 

nicotime

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I really should do stuff like this instead of playing video games and watching youtube :)

Yes...you should...the fireworks are good entertainment!:laugh:

See? This is why I just don't understand these things Nicotime....
Why would you have an 8 legged chip, and then solder all of them, save one, together?

Just doesn't make sense to me - that's why I am just following the pictures everyone posts...... (Well, that, and dagnabbit - I am going to make a lip enabled connector, just to see if I can fry my three remaining hairs off my head.. ) :D

I think because the chip on other applications would have other things tieing in to the other legs that need the same source or feed another component...but in our setup they are not needed...you could actually just use 3 of the pins if you want...I think!
 

candre23

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With something as soft and flexible as silicone, the paint will likely crack and flake off. What you want to do is dye it. Mixing dye in with the resin while it's liquid is best, but you can probably dye it with RIT after it's hard as well.

EDIT: Need to read harder. The mold is silicone, not the mod. Still, dying the liquid resin will give you a color that can never possibly wear off.
 
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