Ce4++ goes dry...

[Tobaccotaste]

Hi!
I have a new ce4++, and it goes dry. I have tried with two wicks, but not better at all. The only way i can keep it from going dry is to screw in the mouthpiece only like a half turn, but then it leaks if i have it horizontally when vaping...
should i just change the "head" on it? Or can i do something else?
Thank you!

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

Hi!
I have a new ce4++, and it goes dry. I have tried with two wicks, but not better at all. The only way i can keep it from going dry is to screw in the mouthpiece only like a half turn, but then it leaks if i have it horizontally when vaping...
should i just change the "head" on it? Or can i do something else?
Thank you!

It sounds like the silicon cap is pressing down too hard on the wicks and not allowing ample juice to flow to the coil. Do at your own risk but when I used them I had to sometimes cut a TINY, TINY "V" slots in the silicon cap where the wicks entered the coil area. Realize too large and it will leak so start off with TINY "V's". I've since switched to Vision (brand) Mini Vivi Novas and would never go back to the Stardusts/ CE4's. If buying the Vivis make ABSOLUTE sure you buy the VISION brand. Knockoffs have issues.
Best of Luck.

 

[Tobaccotaste]

It sounds like the silicon cap is pressing down too hard on the wicks and not allowing ample juice to flow to the coil. Do at your own risk but when I used them I had to sometimes cut a TINY, TINY "V" slots in the silicon cap where the wicks entered the coil area. Realize too large and it will leak so start off with TINY "V's". I've since switched to Vision (brand) Mini Vivi Novas and would never go back to the Stardusts/ CE4's. If buying the Vivis make ABSOLUTE sure you buy the VISION brand. Knockoffs have issues.
Best of Luck.

Thanks, but i dont think that would help. It goes dry even when i have the cap about 1mm from sealed.. Then i have to not screw in the mouthpiece at all, only press it down a LITTLE bit. But still dry after 2 seconds vaping... Maybe its a LR? I don't know if it is, its the one that was in the clearo from begining.

 

[DavidOck]

I've seen them sold with 1.8, 2.4, 2.8 and 3.2 coils. Which is yours?

Is your juice a really thick one? That can cause issues with poor wicking.

Also, what are you using for power to it? If variable voltage, try turning it down to a lower setting, especially if it's a low resistance coil.

And you may just need to "roll" the device in your hand periodically to rewet the wicks.

I suppose it's possible, too, that the wick is somehow wrong, and just not absorbing the juice. If that's the case, putting a new coil head on might do the trick.

Yup, the mouthpiece needs to be fully screwed in to prevent leaks

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

Thanks, but i dont think that would help. It goes dry even when i have the cap about 1mm from sealed.. Then i have to not screw in the mouthpiece at all, only press it down a LITTLE bit. But still dry after 2 seconds vaping... Maybe its a LR? I don't know if it is, its the one that was in the clearo from begining.

Bad net connection in case I don't respond. I don't have one on hand as I gave them all away but there may be a very small ohms marking on the head- if your PV is eGo class 1.7- 2.0 would be perfect but 2.4 should work albeit a cool vape.

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

Also if it's thick/ high VG juice you may have to add a tiny amount of distilled water to thin it.

 

[Tobaccotaste]

I have put in a new head, but same problem but i will wait and see. It should be 2.6 ohms, but it could be LR. But the new one is not LR i'm sure about that.
I vape a VV, at 4V. It's almost no VG at all actually...
After how long time of vaping should it get dry? With my E1-v it never got dry.
Thanks!

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

I have put in a new head, but same problem but i will wait and see. It should be 2.6 ohms, but it could be LR. But the new one is not LR i'm sure about that.
I vape a VV, at 4V. It's almost no VG at all actually...
After how long time of vaping should it get dry? With my E1-v it never got dry.
Thanks!

With my Stardusts I never had any wicking issues even when chain vaping. I just didn't like the build quality. 4 volts should not be dry wicking with a 2.6 ohms head.

 

[Tobaccotaste]

Now it works exellent! Thank you! But it still makes a humming sound but it's no big deal

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

This is a long shot but it could be the clearo post on the battery end is pushed up. Try pulling the center clearo post on the batt end out just a touch.

 

[DavidOck]

I still use them (along with carto tanks, Vivi Nanos, and straight up cartos ), and like Vapoor eyes er haven't had any wicking problems.

Perhaps its a problem with technique? Drawing too hard?

You say you vape at 4 volts, so I'm guessing some sort of VV device. Try dialing it down to the lowest setting, then working it slowly back up?

Or the battery post up a tad. Yep, gotta be careful to not crank devices down too hard!

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

Thanks, but i dont think that would help. It goes dry even when i have the cap about 1mm from sealed.. Then i have to not screw in the mouthpiece at all, only press it down a LITTLE bit. But still dry after 2 seconds vaping... Maybe its a LR? I don't know if it is, its the one that was in the clearo from begining.

It could also be the coil is wrapped too tightly around the wicking not allowing it to be properly saturated. QC with this Chinese stuff is highly questionable.

 

[Tobaccotaste]

How could the center post have anything to do with the clearo going dry?
Thanks

Another wierd thing is that sometimes when using the ce4++ the battery button blinks 3 times... Could this be a overheat thing?

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

How could the center post have anything to do with the clearo going dry? Thanks

Just trying everything. Bad battery connection= low electrical charge goring to coil= poor vape.

Another wierd thing is that sometimes when using the ce4++ the battery button blinks 3 times... Could this be a overheat thing?

Okay- either a short has caused the circuitry to shut down or batt needs charge=ing
"it is the internal circuitry that stopped yr battery from functioning..i suggest these remedies..clicked 5 times and that will switch off yr battery as to reset yr circuitry & click 5 times to switch back ON..if yr battery need to be charged..than do so"

"Look at the atty that does this. You should see the center contact of the carto extending out noticeably from the outer ring. .5mm to 1mm is probably enough. If it's almost level with the outer ring, then you may be grounding the center to the outside. That will result in no vapor and three flashes.

I just shorted my eGo 1000mah batt with a pocketknife blade. The LED came on and then three flashes. There's probably a difference in the height of the center post in that battery that is allowing the carto to screw down further.

Here's how you fix it. Bend a jumbo paper clip with one leg at a right angle. Use pliers to bend a tiny right angle on that leg. It needs to be able to enter the hole in the threaded end of the carto and bind when you pull. Work the center post of the carto out until you have a noticeable ledge where the center protrudes from the ring. That should fix it. The center post is suspended in a silicone ring that protects it from touching the outer ring. It will move slightly and can be pulled outward.

Examine both batteries. The center post in the battery can be forced in just like the one on the carto by screwing the carto on too tight. Light pressure after contact is all you need. No more than 1/8 turn is good."

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ego-type-models/279627-ego-1000mah-battery-3-flashes.html

 

[crxess]

youtube, Youtube, Youtube - Learn all you can. Everything you want and need to know is there and much easier to understand since you can SEE/rewind/repeat until it sticks. Clearomizer goes dry for 1 reason. Juice not reaching Coil.
Why must be determined by inspection. There can be several different causes. Most causes should be addressable with exception of Post to high. That is a manufacturing defect during the pressing process.
I actually have a tank that will pop off the base because of center post pressure - can use it.

 

[DavidOck]

If there's no connection to the battery, or the battery is dead, you will of course still be able to draw on the clearo, just no vapor. It isn't really dry, just not hot, not vaporizing the liquid.

To me, a dry hit is when the wick, carto or whatever, has no fluid but does get hot, and you taste the wick. Unmistakeable!

I'm thinking you mean the first, now fixed (and which process fixed it? just for info), and not the second.

And yep, 3 flashes is usually a dead battery, time to recharge! (Or that it's been pressed on long enough to reach it's "timeout" condition. Releasing the button and giving it a couple seconds will reset that.)

 

[Tobaccotaste]

If there's no connection to the battery, or the battery is dead, you will of course still be able to draw on the clearo, just no vapor. It isn't really dry, just not hot, not vaporizing the liquid.

To me, a dry hit is when the wick, carto or whatever, has no fluid but does get hot, and you taste the wick. Unmistakeable!

I'm thinking you mean the first, now fixed (and which process fixed it? just for info), and not the second.

And yep, 3 flashes is usually a dead battery, time to recharge! (Or that it's been pressed on long enough to reach it's "timeout" condition. Releasing the button and giving it a couple seconds will reset that.)

Also to me dry hit means coil goes without juice, and thats what i meant so the center post probably couldnt be the problem. Now it works however

 

[Tobaccotaste]

Update: dry again...
It gets dry if i screw in the mouthpiece, the only way to keep it from going dry is to have the silicone "hat" not pushed down. And then i can't screw in the mouthpiece...

 

[crxess]

Are you getting a
1) Burned Taste
2) or just Weak Vapor
3) or No Taste/No Vapor?

Can you link to the Clearomizer you bought?

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

Update: dry again...
It gets dry if i screw in the mouthpiece, the only way to keep it from going dry is to have the silicone "hat" not pushed down. And then i can't screw in the mouthpiece...

The silicon cap (when all the way down) is "strangling" the wicks where they enter the coil area thus preventing juice from getting to the coils.