Center Pin O-Ring Radius

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Fusion_Boy

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Dec 30, 2009
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Good Morning,

The other day while I was doing a few rebuilds I noticed that I would get “Output too high” on more than one occasion. At first I thought it was my build however I was well within the working range of the Radius. So then I noticed that the floating center pin was pushed all the way down "flattened". So I used me ceramic teasers to prop the center pin back up.

When I screws an atty back on it would work until it was flush with the base of the Radius then I would get the “Output too high” message again. If I backed it out just a little it would work however it would be wobbly.

On my final attempt to pull back up the center pin I noticed that the orange O-ring was torn on one side and with closer examination it was actually severed.

I was wondering what the size of this O-ring was so I could order more to fix my issue or do you all think their might be another issue and would deem it necessary to send it in for a checkup. I have hopefully attached pictures of each part in question for your viewing pleasure.

IMG_2159.JPG


I have also attached a very blurry image of what looks like a small part of the O-ring still wrapped around the center pin. I do not have a good Macro camera near me. (just notice the orange glow)
IMG_2160.JPG
 

ENAUD

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I've been wondering how long it would be before we saw this issue surface. I'll post a link to an excellent post in the P3 thread where an o-ring size is given:




Good luck if you decide to go it alone, please let us know what you decide and how you make out.

It probably happened from a somewhat long 510 threaded attie, something that I worried about when I first got a P3 topped ProVari. When screwing an atomizer on, once I just feel the pin engage the pin of a P3 topcap, I check to see how large the gap is. If it is sizeable, I utilize these disks :

View media item 429259 as shims, to take up some of the space, so as to not overly squish the ProVari P3 connector center pin grommet/o-ring.
 
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Fusion_Boy

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Dec 30, 2009
69
26
San Antonio TX
Thank you so much for your reply, I have ordered the o-rings you mentioned and they should be here Wednesday. The Shim idea is an excellent one I will have to make me a few just in case I ever use the RDA that causes this issue.

Yes indeed I did figure out that it was my doge RDA V2 that was the culprit as the center contact does not adjust at all. When I started using it their was a gap, it was acceptable as it did not have any wobble. Well as parts wear from use it started tightening down on that center pin.

I will post my results on the replacement o-rings as soon as they come in.
 

Fusion_Boy

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Dec 30, 2009
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San Antonio TX
Ok so here we are a few days later and I could not be happier with the information provided by "coldgin96" by way of "ENAUD" . Last night the O-rings came in and this morning I installed it with a little ingenuity. If you want to see how I installed it I can make a video later. With that being said I also would recommend (my opinion) replacing the standard O-ring that comes with the Radius. These O-rings are sturdier than the orange one that originally came with my setup. NOTE: This could change in the future so later reversions may not be applicable to my recommendation.
IMG_2168.JPG
IMG_2169.JPG


You will also see how much of a gap I now have with the DOGE RDA V2 and how much it had compressed to be shorting out.
IMG_2173.JPG


Going forward the DOGE RDA V2 will no longer be used on my RADIUS. I have decided to only sport the wonderful SPECIAL EDITION - GUN METAL GREY KABUKI™ P3 THREAD TANK. You can see below for pictures.
IMG_2174.JPG


I hope you all enjoyed taking this little journey with me. :thumbs:
 

ENAUD

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So glad that you returned and posted your positive outcome! Thank You. I had a thought about your gap, an easy fix would be to use an appropriate size O-ring that you could tighten the attie down onto without over compressing the 510 connection. Now I must get some of those O-rings for my repair parts stash. :thumbs::toast::vapor:
 
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