Ceramic cups in RBAs?

[Commie]

Morning, Reoville! Long time!

So I got a Killer 705 (clone), and tried rebuilding it. Somehow it seems to me that the ceramic cup fits too tight onto the metal tube. Any of the resistance wire that I try to catch under it, ends up splitting the ceramic. So far I've only tried 28ga and 30ga wires.

Any suggestions? Or should I be using non-resistance wire there? Would it be thinner?

Thank you!

Commie.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Sergey . No answers man, but good to see you posting. We miss you here and out there in the other threads.

 

[pdib]

Aha! So that's where you've been! Hi Commie!

 

[Commie]

Yup, sorry about it, kind of spaced out for a bit. Been playing with the family, and, since my Reo/RM2 combos have been working great, kind of haven't been here in a while.

Now I'm trying to find a good blind-squonking atomizer, so tried playing with the Killer. Next step -- eBaron spiral clone

 

[ltrainer]

Blind sqounking the RM2 works great.

 

[Commie]

Not what I meant by blind squonking. I meant like things with bottom air intake, like cartomizers. Where you judge how much to squonk by amount of gurgle.

 

[Xobeloot]

if it gurgles when I squonk, I change my underwear immediately.

 

[lizardnipples]

Sorry I wish I was able to help you. I haven't tried any of those other rba's. Just make the gurgle sound yourself

It's good to see your still around.

 

[Crash Moses]

I had the same problem, Commie. I gave up on mine. I've read where others have rebuilt them with standard resistance wire but I don't know how. Check over in the Rebuildable Atomizer Forum...someone there may have an answer.

 

[Jazzi Mike]

Technically, the Killer is meant to be built with NR leads on the Kanthal. However, the issue you are having is pretty common. I only have the Killer clone from RH. It took me forever to get mine built and then it got a short. I gave up on mine.

To get my negative post connected on mine, I just gently pushed mine and kinda pushed the neg wire off to the side.

 

[ltrainer]

Not what I meant by blind squonking. I meant like things with bottom air intake, like cartomizers. Where you judge how much to squonk by amount of gurgle.

Guess I am confused. With the RM2 you can blind squonk and listen for the gurgle. I know you can with bottom intake but you can with RM2 as well but good luck getting the killer working like you want it.

 

[darkzero]

Guess I am confused. With the RM2 you can blind squonk and listen for the gurgle. I know you can with bottom intake but you can with RM2 as well but good luck getting the killer working like you want it.

Now I'm confused. The gurgle is from juice & air being drawn through the same channel (bottom air feed & juice). How do you get a gurgle from side air? I've never encountered that from a side air atty (unless maybe it extremely over flooded) but I'm glad as I never was a fan of the gurgle. I even learned how to blind squonk to avoid gurgling when I used to use disposable atties.

 

[supertrunker]

i have a Killer clone - called a Terminator i think and it's a dog to recoil. I used 32g kanthal, which seemed to fit ok and i bought NR silver wire but never used it.

It was the only thing that would fit a Woodvil until i got tired of its inconsistencies and bought a milled down RM2. I also never really liked the method of placing the wires where they needed to be. I made it in a similar way to rebuilding Nova tank heads but it was a lot of fiddling about for little gain and i stopped using it.

I think you can use the CE4? (i may be wrong here since i don't use them) ceramic cups in them.

T

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Now I'm confused. The gurgle is from juice & air being drawn through the same channel (bottom air feed & juice). How do you get a gurgle from side air? I've never encountered that from a side air atty (unless maybe it extremely over flooded) but I'm glad as I never was a fan of the gurgle. I even learned how to blind squonk to avoid gurgling when I used to use disposable atties.

You turn the atty on it's side so the air hole is facing down, squonk and draw air at the same time until you hear gurgle. Release bottle pressure and turn atty upright to let liquid drain back into the bottle. turn atty on it's side so air hole is facing up, fire and hit.

 

[ltrainer]

^^^ yep, what he said!

 

[Treebeard]

Good to see you again, Commie.

 

[darkzero]

You turn the atty on it's side so the air hole is facing down, squonk and draw air at the same time until you hear gurgle. Release bottle pressure and turn atty upright to let liquid drain back into the bottle. turn atty on it's side so air hole is facing up, fire and hit.

Thanks for explaining, never heard of this method before. That sounds like too much trouble for what it's worth & a whole lot of squonking! Besides, I don't use RM2s anyway but even though I just can't imagine doing that everytime. Kind of awkward having to flip, tilt, squonk/gurlge, & flip back over again but that's just me.

EDIT: Ok, so I just tried that on a RM2 on a Reo that I'm rebuilding for someone. Gurgles but not nearly the same as the gurgling I'm used to on a bottom air feed atty. Plenty of juice gets to the wick to soak it before it starts to gurgle while tilting. I guess this method is just not for me & I don't see a need to.

Just curious, why the need for blind squonk with a gurgle if the RM2 drains anyway?

 

[Commie]

Just curious, why the need for blind squonk with a gurgle if the RM2 drains anyway?

Personal preference. Mysterious ways...

As the bottle gets low, my squonks on RM2 get inconsistent.

But, in all honesty, my RM2s have been working perfectly. I now can make a great setup that will last a few days, or a very passable setup that will last weeks (for vacations, for example). Now it's a matter of wanting to explore and try other things.