Clt rda shorting out?? Help!!!!

[Michael7]

So I just got my clt rda and re coiled it for the 2nd time.I'm pretty paranoid and check my builds about 10 times before going on my mech. Well I had just finished my build and evrything checked out good at .43 so I unscrewed the adjustable 510 maybe 1-2 turns to make sure it would make contact with my mech and threw it on the ohm reader again and bam 1.8 ohm so I took it off and turned off the meter and re screwed it on and 1.6 ohm. I repeated this about 5 times and got a diff reading everytime it went back on the ohm meter. So I took out the multi meter and checked it and it was all over the place. All the way from 0-66 ohm. Obviously I had a short somewhere, but I knew it wasn't in my coils or posts so I screwed in the adj 510 as far as it would go and bingo right back at .43 I checked it another 5 times and solid .43.
My question is , is this a normal occurance with the adjustable 510? after messing with it it seems as if I don't have it screwed as tight as it'll go then it will screw itself in and out when I take it on and off my mod causing a short. If this is the case then I might as well trash it. Anyone have any insight on this?

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[Michael7]

Bumpidy

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[Marc411]

Michael, I had the same type of problem with mine and it was the screws on the negative post clipping my wire. It's hard to tell but one was clipped when I went back in and checked it. Swapped all the screws out for hex heads (flat) and no more problems.

 

[Michael7]

Michael, I had the same type of problem with mine and it was the screws on the negative post clipping my wire. It's hard to tell but one was clipped when I went back in and checked it. Swapped all the screws out for hex heads (flat) and no more problems.

Do you mean by clipping the wire that when you stick it thru the post holes its cutting the wires or not making enough contact?
Thanks

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[Marc411]

When you tighten down the screws it's clipping the wire. When I had the factory screws in it the bottom edges were sharp and clipping one of the wires on my negative posts and creating a short. I'd go back and look at the build and really couldn't tell until I give one a little tug with some tweezers, the coil popped real easy from the negative post. The negative posts have 2 mm screws and the positive are 2.5 mm. I swapped mine out but you can try to file or sand them smooth if you think that's the problem.

I'm vaping mine right on a dual 1 ohm build with Bryce's Banana pudding and it rocks!

When you tightening down the screws and you feel them getting tight and then the tension loosens back up and allows you to tighten the screws a little more chances are you clipped the wire.

I hope you can get yours working, it is a great dripper.

 

[Michael7]

Ahh I have noticed that it tensions and then untensions. I also had it cut a coil to but I figured it was just me over tightening. Tomorrow ill head over to a fastener store and see if I can get some new screws. Appreciate the help thanks again

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[Marc411]

If you have a Fastenal in the area go there, if not shoot me a PM and I'll send you a set but I only have one wrench for the 2 mm so you'll have to find one of them locally.

 

[suspectK]

Ok..I understand that the screws can be too sharp/edged on the bottom, but your issue occurred with adjusting the positive pin out..worked fine when adjusted back in..

So the issue is the negative screws?

Check the insulator and positive/510 pin area.. make sure the body is segregated from the positive pin.

 

[Michael7]

Ok..I understand that the screws can be too sharp/edged on the bottom, but your issue occurred with adjusting the positive pin out..worked fine when adjusted back in..

So the issue is the negative screws?

Check the insulator and positive/510 pin area.. make sure the body is segregated from the positive pin.

That's true, I've never taken apart an rda will it hurt it if I take the positive post out to inspect it?

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[suspectK]

No... check it..make sure insulator is in tact..main point to ensure is, positive/510 is isolated from the threads/body/ground/common/negative..

 

[Michael7]

No... check it..make sure insulator is in tact..main point to ensure is, positive/510 is isolated from the threads/body/ground/common/negative..

Ohhh but my beautiful coils ill have to destroy [emoji22] ...... Thanks for the idea because I wouldve never taken it apart.

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[suspectK]

You may be able to keep your coils in tact.

Put some pliers on the positive block, and hold it in place..

It'll probably be quicker and easier to start new though..lol.

 

[Michael7]

Yea ill just trash the coils, gives me a good reason to go to my local b & m and get some more 26g and maybe try some 24 gauge. I tried a dual twisted 28g but couldn't get it to light up right no matter how much I fiddled with it

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[Marc411]

Is you block moving. Taking pliers to it should be the last resort. I had the same issue and the coil being cut was the issue. Try to build another set without torqueing the screws down to tight and see what happens before pulling the dripper apart.

Better yet if you think it's a bad insulator go back to the seller and ask for an exchange. Once you put pliers to it all bets are off.

 

[Dom NY]

What's up guys,

I had the same thing happen with two new HCigar Kayfun 3.1 atomizers. After building, my Ohm meter jumped around all over the place. When I adjusted the screw in the 510 connection, to make the screw stick out a bit more, the Ohm meter stabilized at 0.8. I connected the Kayfun to a mod and tried firing it, causing a short. So, I tried again, using another new HCigar Kayfun, and the Ohm meter did the same thing. I did not try firing the second Kayfun, as I learned a lesson from the first one. Shorts get really hot and burn, lol!

I built the coils really well, and also washed both atomizers really well before using them, so those are not the issues. On the first Kayfun, I connected the coil by sliding the wires through the post holes, and tightening the screws down on them. The second time, I connected the coil by wrapping the wires under the screw head, and tightening the screw down (like on a KFL+). In both instances, I had the same problem, so the cause is not from the wire getting severed by a sharp screw. By the way, I have four Kayfun Lite + atomizers, and I've never had a problem with any of them. I just can't figure it out.

So, it sounds like what happened to Michael with the CLT dripper is similar to what happened to me with the Kayfun 3.1. Unfortunately, I have no solution to the problem, and was thinking of maybe having the owner of a b&m nearby take a look at it. If I have any success, I'll let you know.

I hope it works out for you Michael, and you get your CLT dripper in proper working order!

 

[Michael7]

Is you block moving. Taking pliers to it should be the last resort. I had the same issue and the coil being cut was the issue. Try to build another set without torqueing the screws down to tight and see what happens before pulling the dripper apart.

Better yet if you think it's a bad insulator go back to the seller and ask for an exchange. Once you put pliers to it all bets are off.

havnt take the pliers to it yet, too scared ill break something almost always do when I start Muscling things. But I contacted the seller and he said I could ship it back and exchange it.so that's what ill prob do. It's been working fine since I fully tightened the 510 but I don't like the thought that it might losen one day when taking it off a mod and short out the next time I put it on.

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[Michael7]

What's up guys,

I had the same thing happen with two new HCigar Kayfun 3.1 atomizers. After building, my Ohm meter jumped around all over the place. When I adjusted the screw in the 510 connection, to make the screw stick out a bit more, the Ohm meter stabilized at 0.8. I connected the Kayfun to a mod and tried firing it, causing a short. So, I tried again, using another new HCigar Kayfun, and the Ohm meter did the same thing. I did not try firing the second Kayfun, as I learned a lesson from the first one. Shorts get really hot and burn, lol!

I built the coils really well, and also washed both atomizers really well before using them, so those are not the issues. On the first Kayfun, I connected the coil by sliding the wires through the post holes, and tightening the screws down on them. The second time, I connected the coil by wrapping the wires under the screw head, and tightening the screw down (like on a KFL+). In both instances, I had the same problem, so the cause is not from the wire getting severed by a sharp screw. By the way, I have four Kayfun Lite + atomizers, and I've never had a problem with any of them. I just can't figure it out.

So, it sounds like what happened to Michael with the CLT dripper is similar to what happened to me with the Kayfun 3.1. Unfortunately, I have no solution to the problem, and was thinking of maybe having the owner of a b&m nearby take a look at it. If I have any success, I'll let you know.

I hope it works out for you Michael, and you get your CLT dripper in proper working order!

Sorry to hear that dom , It sucks to get something and have problems almost drives me to smoking again . One disadvantage to buying online is you can't just drive back and exchange it.

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[suspectK]

Doesn't the kayfun 3.1 have an issue with shorting out on AFC screw?

 

[Michael7]

Doesn't the kayfun 3.1 have an issue with shorting out on AFC screw?

Mine did but only if I tightened AFC all The way in till it bottomed out.

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[Dom NY]

Doesn't the kayfun 3.1 have an issue with shorting out on AFC screw?

You raise a very good point!

I remember reading about the AFC screw having the potential to cause a short. It said that the air flow control screw can cause a short if it is tightened all the way down. The short occurs due to the AFC screw making contact with the positive post.

I removed the AFC screw completely, and still had the same problem. Thank you for bringing that up, unfortunately, its not the solution in my case.