Thankfully I'm not the only one!!, first setup blows me away the second attempt I think is my fault and I "over think" it cause will take hours. Too answer ur question directly, my wick was rolled loose, but fit snug against tank wick hole, for the cobra it's better(i think!!) for the wick not to hug the wall of wick hole, ie the drill bit/petar k method could be used but with smaller than 2mm bit. The first rba coil I made was all hand, and it was darn good, but the consistentecy of drill bit satisfies my OCD, so that I can replicate my setup, once I've "gotten it".
With the paperclip still in mesh I roll it tight as I can, in one direction, on a lint free towel that sit on my table. It's so skinny it's like a cocktail straw. Then I roll in exact opposite direction with slight pressure til it "feels right size". When sliding wick into coil, if it's slghtly too big(or loose) i can micro adjust its size as going in by turning it like screw as I slide wick in. When wick is at final resting place it's snug on coil and the wick hole. If I put it in fill hole, it would stay however far I put it in, and easily slide with just a touch.
After reading your first attempt and comparing with mine, I think you are correct about leaving space between wick and hole, and I mean generous space. My guess u didn't fight hotspots first attempt? I don't have them now only because I've oxidized my wick, juice burn offs, never close to ash, and part that touches coil and tank.
My tank is working great but I'm sure the "right" setup would blow mine away. There's a how to vid on phiniac showing a method I've yet to try but this looks "ideal" for wicking on the cobra, as I read somewhere with this and space between wick-hole, this guy/gal left fill screw in and still wicked vertically
BTW how do you make coil, hand-wrapping the wick already in place? Here's the "how to", hope I answered your question and sorry if too detailed
Video Library - Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks