Cobra/ProVari Setup: Takes Like Burning!

[Whitechapel]

I'm currently using a ProVari v2 and a Cobra titanium setup. After a couple hits the tank seems to lose flavor and in comes a burning metallic taste. I've tried the ProVari from 3.5-4v (I was getting error codes on the mod when trying to vape at 4.5, it seems to be off and on) and as the voltage increases, the burning taste becomes more intense. I checked the coils, there are no gaps, everything looks tight. The wick can move with some resistance. I tried turning it back and forth to see if that made a difference. It seemed to make it better for a couple hits and then it went back to a bad taste. I thought I fixed it for a bit by readjusting the wick, and maybe it did but the flavor seemed to disappear and then several hits later the flavor came back.

 

[donnah]

Look at your coil closely.. is every part of it touching the wick? If any part of that coil isn't in contact with the wick..it'll glow and give the metallic taste. You're getting an error code because the voltage is too high for your resistance and you're over the amp or watt limit. The Provari has an amp limit of 3.5 and a wattage limit of 15watts.

When I used genesis attys with mesh (on a provari), I would shoot for 1.2Ω.

edit.. also I guess you know you have to hold the device with the wick facing towards you or it won't wick.. thus metallic taste.

 

[Whitechapel]

I should have mentioned that earlier... I did look at the coil under light. The coil appears to have full contact with the wick.

You might be onto something with the wick being faced upward instead of on the bottom when I hit it. I'll go check it out.

Edit** That did not help. After about two hits the burning taste came back. I also double checked the coil, there is no parts where it isn't touching the wick.

 

[donnah]

Hmmm... I haven't messed with mesh in a while but the times that I had problems.. I could pretty much always pin point a part of my coil that didn't have complete contact. Mesh is tricky.. it can't be too tight or too loose. what is the resistance of your coil? I don't know how much you know about how to vape with mesh so forgive me if I tell you something that you know... when you vape.. the mesh has to be in line with the air hole and it all has to be pointing downward.. towards your chest. It's quite a steep learning curve but if I could learn it anyone can LOL. Just keep practicing and wrapping the wick. I watched zen's video on how to wrap a wick on the zap and it helped me a lot. I also watched countless videos of Scott (igetcha69) on youtube. I take it that this is the real cobra and not the inexpensive clone? If it's the little clone...I never could get that thing to work right consistently.

 

[Whitechapel]

I want to say it's something with the wick itself. Because I rotated it a bit, the issue went away for a couple rips, then it came back. I had a friend rebuild it a couple days ago, I just got around to ripping it today.

Thanks for the Youtube link, I will check it out. Yes, this is a legitimate Cobra.

 

[emus]

I'm having great cobra luck w/ very loose wick in deck hole. I extend skinny wick to tank floor. I pack wick kinda firm inside coil w/ drill bit. Wick is bunched up atop deck hole to improve pocket carry. I cut wick 1/16" above coil and make it v shape. Using 10% to 30% VG. Been using same wick for several days w/ outstanding vapor quality.

 

[jnnfrlsw]

What ohm is your coil? Sounds like you either need to adjust the number of wraps in your coil to increase your ohms or stay at the lower voltage setting. If your coil is heating evenly and your getting a burnt taste then you have to lower your voltage. The higher you take your voltage, the better chance of a burnt taste.
Also, keeping the wick saturated is important.

 

[mackman]

I would guess that the metallic taste is because you are getting dry hits from the mesh not wicking and possible hot spots on your coil. The error code could as has been suggested because your amp limit is too high or the wick is shorting out in the gennie. You really need to inform yourself on the complexities of these atomizers. The Provari has built in circuit protection that will protect you and the device. You need an ohmmeter or a multimeter to know the resistance of every coil you place on a mod. Here are a link by Baditude which will give you helpful information.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...4-7-information-resources-your-first-rba.html
Also there a many many videos on YouTube on coil building and how to correct problems with them.

Good vaping

 

[Thrasher]

sounds like a hotspot or a short, if your getting errors after being able to vape the wick is shorting out.

no matter how good you think it looks if you taste metal you have a problem. you will also have a heck of a time trying to find said problems with a tank full of juice. the coil needs to glow as evenly as possible dry.
you may want to try a drillbit wrapped coil


LOL@ Donna thats the video that convinced me to buy one. i now have 2 with 1.3mm caps

Cobra on a provari 1.8 ohms at 4.1 volts using 32g on unoxidized 500 mesh.

 

[Whitechapel]

What ohm is your coil? Sounds like you either need to adjust the number of wraps in your coil to increase your ohms or stay at the lower voltage setting.

I'm vaping a 3.5V though. I need to check on what ohm my coil is at, I'm at work right now. I do want to say it's 1.2 ohms.

The tank is nearly completely full, so I believe it is saturated.

 

[Whitechapel]

I would guess that the metallic taste is because you are getting dry hits from the mesh not wicking and possible hot spots on your coil. The error code could as has been suggested because your amp limit is too high or the wick is shorting out in the gennie. You really need to inform yourself on the complexities of these atomizers. The Provari has built in circuit protection that will protect you and the device. You need an ohmmeter or a multimeter to know the resistance of every coil you place on a mod. Here are a link by Baditude which will give you helpful information.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...4-7-information-resources-your-first-rba.html
Also there a many many videos on YouTube on coil building and how to correct problems with them.

Good vaping

I do understand the complexities of it but I am new to all of it. I had a crash course in rebuildable tank this week. But this is how I learn best: by doing. The theoretics usually comes secondary. So once I figure this out and get it working, I know I've run into it before and can fallback on it. So excuse my noob questions, but it's the only way I'm going to learn quickly.

 

[Whitechapel]

sounds like a hotspot or a short, if your getting errors after being able to vape the wick is shorting out.

no matter how good you think it looks if you taste metal you have a problem. you will also have a heck of a time trying to find said problems with a tank full of juice. the coil needs to glow as evenly as possible dry.
you may want to try a drillbit wrapped coil


LOL@ Donna thats the video that convinced me to buy one. i now have 2 with 1.3mm caps

Cobra on a provari 1.8 ohms at 4.1 volts using 32g on unoxidized 500 mesh.
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The errors don't happen every single fire. It usually happens with after tinkering with the wick, I just Google the error code and see what the recommend fix it.

So you're saying to drain the tank, dry fire it, and see how the coil lights up?

 

[Rule62]

The errors don't happen every single fire. It usually happens with after tinkering with the wick, I just Google the error code and see what the recommend fix it.

So you're saying to drain the tank, dry fire it, and see how the coil lights up?

A couple things come to mind. First, not many people are using 32g wire anymore on genesis type attys. It's just too flimsy. A 32g coil can bump out of line by simply setting the device down too hard on a table. I'd suggest using at least 30g on a regulated mod, such as a Provari. It will stay in place much better.
Secondly, if you are using unoxidized mesh, and trying to pulse oxidize it on a Provari, you're likely to get errors. The protection feature is way too sensitive. Either use a mechanical mod to pulse the wick, and then switch it over to the Provari; or if you don't have a mechanical, you'd be better off to pre oxidize your wick, before inserting it in a coil, or wrapping a coil on it.
Yes, if you ever need to readjust a coil, you need to empty the tank first, and dry fire it. It's impossible to properly adjust a coil when there's juice in the wick.

 

[emus]

Not mesh but this build has performed great for several days. The most important features are very loose wick through tiny deck hole and somewhat firm packed cotton inside coil. Ever since watching rip's auto drip vid I have made wicks extra loose though deck hole.

 

[Whitechapel]

A couple things come to mind. First, not many people are using 32g wire anymore on genesis type attys. It's just too flimsy. A 32g coil can bump out of line by simply setting the device down too hard on a table. I'd suggest using at least 30g on a regulated mod, such as a Provari. It will stay in place much better.

I am using 30g wire. I'm not sure if I said 32g wire somewhere else, so if I did, I apologize.

Secondly, if you are using unoxidized mesh, and trying to pulse oxidize it on a Provari, you're likely to get errors. The protection feature is way too sensitive. Either use a mechanical mod to pulse the wick, and then switch it over to the Provari; or if you don't have a mechanical, you'd be better off to pre oxidize your wick, before inserting it in a coil, or wrapping a coil on it.
Yes, if you ever need to readjust a coil, you need to empty the tank first, and dry fire it. It's impossible to properly adjust a coil when there's juice in the wick.

We oxidized the mesh. We used a lighter, juiced it, and lit it back on fire. The guy who did it actually did your recommendation of pulsing it on a mechanical mod. Pardon my asking, but why is it impossible to adjust a coil when there's juice in the wick?

I got the RSST in today but do not have the tools yet to build it. Damn work is getting in my way of learning!

 

[Thrasher]

Pardon my asking, but why is it impossible to adjust a coil when there's juice in the wick?

because when the wick is wet you cannot see the hotspots and shorts correctly, the wick needs to be dry to check the coil, and to see if it really is glowing evenly.

from your description, it sounds like you did a juice burn but didnt actually oxidize the wick, oxidizing and coating it with burnt juice are two differnt things and every time you move the wick you scrap off the burned juice layer. in this case make sure the wick is not touching the bottom of the tank. lift it up a couple mm.

 

[donnah]

you don't HAVE to use mesh in a genesis... I use cotton in mine, much easier

 

[Whitechapel]

you don't HAVE to use mesh in a genesis... I use cotton in mine, much easier

I appreciate the side option, but I am determined to make this work! I would need to pick up some cotton, I don't have any on me at the moment. I am not objected to it, just determined.

How did you make that wick?

 

[Ronald3638]

I am using 30g wire. I'm not sure if I said 32g wire somewhere else, so if I did, I apologize.


We oxidized the mesh. We used a lighter, juiced it, and lit it back on fire. The guy who did it actually did your recommendation of pulsing it on a mechanical mod. Pardon my asking, but why is it impossible to adjust a coil when there's juice in the wick?

I got the RSST in today but do not have the tools yet to build it. Damn work is getting in my way of learning!

Those pesky jobs always get in the way.

It's not impossible to adjust the coil but with juice cooling the coil you won't get the oxidizing effect you need, you may however be able to reposition the coil enough to move it to an oxidized portion of the wick.

 

[Whitechapel]

So how should I go about removing the wick so I can dry fire it and check to see how it's lights up?