I have a alphanumeric code on the side of my battery under the shrink wrap it says 14ao2 or 14a02 is this a model number or serial number? the reason I ask is I was told its a counterfeit! its an 18500 AW 1100mah (4.1wH) someone on ECF said AW doesn't make 18500 so therefore its a fake and dangerous I was told by my brick and mortar it was safe and they use them so I don't know who to trust Ive had it as low as .3 an it didn't even get warm so..... anyone know anything Id appreciate it.
codes on the side of batteries???
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Who said they don't make one. I've just checked a few authorized vendors over here and they do list an 18500 1100mAh.
Check it out here: AW Batteries - Authorised Dealers
That'll tell you if it's fake or not. AW make 18350, 18490, 18500 and of course 18650, as well as other form factors.
Check it out here: AW Batteries - Authorised Dealers
That'll tell you if it's fake or not. AW make 18350, 18490, 18500 and of course 18650, as well as other form factors.
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Most likely it's just a date code: (20)14 a(pril) 02
AW does have an 18490 in their product line: AW IMR 18490 3.7v 1100mAh - RTD vapor But not 18500, and not flat top.
AW does have an 18490 in their product line: AW IMR 18490 3.7v 1100mAh - RTD vapor But not 18500, and not flat top.
[quote name="jamie419" post=13961637]I have a AW imr 18500 1100mah battery and a blue no name 2200 mah battery. heres the deal I was building sub ohm coils around .4 to.5 ohms and my rig was spraying the vapor I mean thick massive clouds well I build coils now that are supposed to be around .3 to .4 and its just not vaping like it was I could take one second hits and cloud the room now its just lagging and the clouds are not as thick and I have to hit it longer. my current build is 28g 2mm 7 wraps supposed to be .4 but it just seems weak. can anyone explain this? do I need new batteries? I checked the voltage this morning it said 4.26. and I think my ohm reader is junk to its saying .7 to .9 for anything I build. please help[/QUOTE]There's a LOT that's wrong with this post!
Is your AW battery an 18500 battery or a 18490 battery?
The authentic AW battery in this size is an 18490. If the battery says 18500 on it, it is a counterfeit battery. AW does not sell an 18500 battery. How to Identify Counterfeit AW batteries
AW 18490 IMR 1100 mah
NEVER use a generic no-name battery in ANY mod, especially not with sub-ohm coil builds. You never use a battery that you don't know the amp limit for. Stop using the blue battery, its dangerous.
I'm questioning why you are saying "is supposed to be" a certain ohm coil. If every coil build you make always turns out to be a 0.7 - 0.9 ohms no matter what you build, you've got a lousy ohm meter and need to get a new one.
Get with the program. If you don't use the right batteries and don't have a reliable ohm meter, you have no business making coils. If you don't understand why, click on this link: Explain it for the Dumb Noob
I have both a Nitecore Intellicharger i2 and i4. Never had a problem with them charging over 4.2 volts each and every time. How are you checking your battery voltage?<br/>
Is your AW battery an 18500 battery or a 18490 battery?
The authentic AW battery in this size is an 18490. If the battery says 18500 on it, it is a counterfeit battery. AW does not sell an 18500 battery. How to Identify Counterfeit AW batteriesNEVER use a generic no-name battery in ANY mod, especially not with sub-ohm coil builds. You never use a battery that you don't know the amp limit for. Stop using the blue battery, its dangerous.
I'm questioning why you are saying "is supposed to be" a certain ohm coil. If every coil build you make always turns out to be a 0.7 - 0.9 ohms no matter what you build, you've got a lousy ohm meter and need to get a new one.
Get with the program. If you don't use the right batteries and don't have a reliable ohm meter, you have no business making coils. If you don't understand why, click on this link: Explain it for the Dumb Noob
I have both a Nitecore Intellicharger i2 and i4. Never had a problem with them charging over 4.2 volts each and every time. How are you checking your battery voltage?<br/>
They do make a protected 18500 - but it's not something you would use in a mechanical anyway and if it comes in a red shrink wrap then it's a fake. The protected AW's come in a black shrink wrap.
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As stated by a few people here in the thread, AW only makes an ICR 18500 and really shouldn't be used in a mechanical device. If it is an IMR it would be 18490. Can you post a pic of the batteries you received? Pics go a very long way in these forums when asking questions... An AW IMR 18490 can be ran @ .3Ω, but I wouldn't push it below that though... Lets see some pics...
I stand by my previous post. AW does not make an IMR 18500 battery. Only an 18490 button top IMR.
I've seen a photo of a red AW 18500 IMR on Facebook, confirmed to be a counterfeit. And as others have said, the black and white AW 18500 ICR doesn't count as you shouldn't be using an ICR battery in a mod anyway.
Below is the AW IMR battery lineup. They are available in R123 / 14500/ 18350 / 18490 /18650 size. No 18500 size. http://available in R123 / 14500/ 18350 / 18490 /18650 size.
Your battery has the old black AW sticker which was easily counterfeited. The newer AW sticker has a hologram sticker which is silver with black letters. Your battery is a counterfeit.
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I did see your pic. If it weren't for the label saying it was an 18500 AW battery, I'd have a hard time identifying it as a counterfeit. That was the dead giveaway. They did a good job copying the authentic battery except for that part and the black AW sticker.
Out of curiousity, where did you purchase this battery?
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You my friend are the proud owner of a fake AW battery.... I hear it calling the trash can's name right now. You actually vaped that at .3Ω? Your a braver man than I am. Only suggestion I can give you would be to take that battery back to the B&M you got it from and get your money back pronto... Research is your friend in situations like this and remember, no question is a dumb question in this forum...
I spent $100 in January this year acumulating what I thought were the best batteries I could buy. Trouble is, I bought a bunch of fake AW batteries instead of legit ones.
Now, I buy AW from RTD and anything else from Illumination Supply or RTD.
Legit batteries from legit suppliers.
Fakes are easy to buy. Many b&m stores buy from alibaba and fasttech. Great for clone hardware. Bad for legit batteries.
Now, I buy AW from RTD and anything else from Illumination Supply or RTD.
Legit batteries from legit suppliers.
Fakes are easy to buy. Many b&m stores buy from alibaba and fasttech. Great for clone hardware. Bad for legit batteries.
The following was written by Rolygate, our forum administrator:
"Counterfeit Batteries.
This is a growing problem and all APV users need to be aware of it.
This is what happens: the counterfeiters buy reject Li-ion batteries in bulk, strip the covers off, and re-cover them with labels that change them to look like popular brands. In this way they can take a cell bought for 10 cents, re-work it, and sell it as for example an AW battery with a retail price of $10. The profits are very high and this practice is growing. It means that you never really know what battery you have unless you buy from somewhere with a verified supply chain. For example, all AW batteries offered for sale on Alibaba are counterfeits, and possibly dangerous.
Buy the best batteries
Please don't try to save money on batteries, it is the worst possible area to make economies. It's like trying to buy the cheapest possible parachute, with no idea where it comes from or who made it, and pretending there is no increase in risk. Why would you do that?
Only use safer-chemistry rechargeables such as Li-Mn or Hybrid in an APV." -- http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/129569-rechargeable-batteries.html
"Counterfeit Batteries.
This is a growing problem and all APV users need to be aware of it.
This is what happens: the counterfeiters buy reject Li-ion batteries in bulk, strip the covers off, and re-cover them with labels that change them to look like popular brands. In this way they can take a cell bought for 10 cents, re-work it, and sell it as for example an AW battery with a retail price of $10. The profits are very high and this practice is growing. It means that you never really know what battery you have unless you buy from somewhere with a verified supply chain. For example, all AW batteries offered for sale on Alibaba are counterfeits, and possibly dangerous.
Buy the best batteries
Please don't try to save money on batteries, it is the worst possible area to make economies. It's like trying to buy the cheapest possible parachute, with no idea where it comes from or who made it, and pretending there is no increase in risk. Why would you do that?
Only use safer-chemistry rechargeables such as Li-Mn or Hybrid in an APV." -- http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/129569-rechargeable-batteries.html
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