coil ohms changing - - - is it relative to juice viscosity?

[at1rest]

Greetings,

I've noticed that sometimes my coil might read as 1.9 ( for a 1.8 ) but then after filling the tank it might read 2.4.
I'm always doing a mashup mix of different liquids so I can't be sure of the VG/PG mix but was wondering why
coil ohms readings might change?

I'm checking the ohms on a Vamo V5.
Is it relative to juice viscosity? Or are they just generally here and there with the readings?

This is a Kanger MINI Protank 2 with a (supposedly) 1.8 in it, but it's been cleaned and dry burned a few times
when I start getting burnt hits, but It still tastes great after the cleaning and dry burning and seems to last an other
week or more before going funky again.

I've got a bunch of new coils. I'm just going for the mileage.

Thanks!

 

[danny4x4]

There's a tendency for the resistance of stock clearos to creep up. The legs of the coil are secured by the silicone grommet and sometimes the connection is not optimum. The stocks coils are using 32 awg or higher gauges. The thin wires means that the legs are more likely to move/shift due to heating and cooling of the wire. It doesn't happen on all stock heads/coils though.

If the resistance creeps up, give it a split second fire and check the resistance again. You'll find that it drops to the expected resistance.

Hence if you're using variable wattage/voltage device like the vamo with clearos, I would suggest using variable voltage instead. Either that, or you'll have to press the button for a split second to bring the resistance to the correct reading each time you pick up the device after a period of not vaping it. If not, the vamo will fire at a higher wattage since the resistance has crept up.

Thicker juices will gunk up the coils faster and the coil resistance would inch up by 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. But my thinking is that it's not the gunk on the coil that causes it. It's the legs gunking up, and hence the point where it actually makes contact with the negative and positive ends are lower down the legs. Thus a higher resistance.

 

[edyle]

Yes as above, the electrical contact is merely pressure between metal and a silicone grommet, plus it's all wet with a liquid;

in addition, for a coil that's been in use and dry burned a few times, there's going to be corrosion on the wire affecting electrical contact.

With a proper rebuildable, you have screw down posts that you can tighten the wire securely down on with metal to metal to metal contact.

 

[twall]

I've noticed myself, even on a RDA, after test burning it, it'll read X. After loading it with a wick and juicing it up, it'll usually rise - like .2 or so, as stated above. Then, it'll settle back in to the original reading with a couple hours' use. If it sits, it creeps back up again for a half dozen hits or so.

 

[danny4x4]

I've noticed myself, even on a RDA, after test burning it, it'll read X. After loading it with a wick and juicing it up, it'll usually rise - like .2 or so, as stated above. Then, it'll settle back in to the original reading with a couple hours' use. If it sits, it creeps back up again for a half dozen hits or so.

You might have nudged the coil when wicking. BUT, since it creeps up slightly if you leave it for a couple of hours, it leads to me believe that you have to tighten your screws down. Or make a complete wrap around the screws before tightening.

 

[at1rest]

Thanks everyone for the information. It's much appreciated!