Okay this is a picture of my original setup. A single 1300 variable voltage. The brand is Smoktech both for battery and clearomizer. Recently I upgraded to a Kanger Unitank. When I used the coil it came with on my smoktech battery I could not get any draw whatsoever. No air or anything. If i turn it really loose it would work but it was clearly not functioning right because of such poor connection. So I switched to one of my coils from my original clearomizer and it worked perfectly. Just wondering if next time I need coils I should get the ones for my smoktech clearomizer. I'm really puzzled with this because Kanger coils did work in the smoktechCoil question.
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Okay this is a picture of my original setup. A single 1300 variable voltage. The brand is Smoktech both for battery and clearomizer. Recently I upgraded to a Kanger Unitank. When I used the coil it came with on my smoktech battery I could not get any draw whatsoever. No air or anything. If i turn it really loose it would work but it was clearly not functioning right because of such poor connection. So I switched to one of my coils from my original clearomizer and it worked perfectly. Just wondering if next time I need coils I should get the ones for my smoktech clearomizer. I'm really puzzled with this because Kanger coils did work in the smoktech
Sounds like your center pin may be depressed. Run a toothpick around the pin in your battery and see if it will release and lift. This is a common problem that occurs from over-tightening the topper, which often occurs with connection problems. The original coils are likely not the issue. Good luck!
Are you serious?
I used to have similar problems with my Protank coils on my MVP2. My advice to you is buy the coils that work in your setup. If the Smoktech ones work and Kanger ones do not, it is a pretty simple decision.
This is actually an issue with air-hole placement on the bases of many (but not all) Protanks bases ...and, now apparently, Unitanks as well. The air-holes are (supposed to be) drilled just at the top of the 510 threading, but loose manufacturing tolerances sometimes have these drilled too low so that, when screwed onto a device, the air flow is actually cut completely off (especially on devices that have no air channels cut into the top of the 510 threading). There is really no way to correct this without drilling larger (and higher) holes.
There are, however, a couple of workarounds:
1) Get an airflow controller - this little device allows you to raise the tank up and provide the necessary spacing needed to get air flow ...the same thing you are doing by unscrewing the tank. It's not 100% effective, depending on how low your holes have been mis-drilled, but works most of the time.
2) Use EVOD (or, in your case, Smoktech) coil heads - these heads, because they are meant to be used on smaller eGo devices, have smaller base diameters and will allow air to draw up from the bottom even if the Protank base airflow holes are closed. Many people went to this solution simply to get a tighter, less airy, draw on Protanks than with the Protank heads due to the same principle.
There are, however, a couple of workarounds:
1) Get an airflow controller - this little device allows you to raise the tank up and provide the necessary spacing needed to get air flow ...the same thing you are doing by unscrewing the tank. It's not 100% effective, depending on how low your holes have been mis-drilled, but works most of the time.
2) Use EVOD (or, in your case, Smoktech) coil heads - these heads, because they are meant to be used on smaller eGo devices, have smaller base diameters and will allow air to draw up from the bottom even if the Protank base airflow holes are closed. Many people went to this solution simply to get a tighter, less airy, draw on Protanks than with the Protank heads due to the same principle.
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