Coil rebuilding - keep it simple

[Geee]

I have had a bunch of Kangers (T3, MT3S, EVOD, Pro tank 1&2, and Mini's). They are all showing their age. I still have spare coils but wanted to try wrapping some of my own

Don't want to do anything fancy, but just wanted opinions the gage of Wire and the Silica size. I was thinking about starting out with 32 gage and 3mm wic.

Any suggestions on the best place to buy?

Thanks

 

[retrox]

3mm silica will actually improve the performance of Evods and Protanks. I haven't rebuilt those in a while, but I used 33GA Kanthal A-1 to come out at around 2.0 ohms for my VV device. 32GA will probably land you in the 1.5 ohm neighborhood with a 3/4 wrap, so that should be fine. I've got a buddy who managed to squeeze a 6/7 micro-coil wrap into an Evod and it was a monster! Definitely use the 3mm silica for the Kanger devices! You shouldn't even need to put any flavor wicks above the coil, but if you get any flooding, a couple strands of unwound 3mm should be plenty.

I buy all my rebuildable supplies locally, so can't really help you with a site. Ebay is a good place to look for deals, though.

 

[Butters78]

I use 3mm silica from pbdragon which I really like and 32 kanthal from temco. 5 wraps I get about 2.5 ohms. I also use mesh and microcoil in the kanger heads.

 

[Geee]

I have been wondering about SS mesh. Do you just use this in place of the silica? What is microcoil?

 

[Mad Scientist]

I have tried a lot of different builds but if you have a decent power source to drive it, in addition to the builds described above, the following works very well:

30 AWG Kanthal A-1 wrapped 9 loops around a number 51 drill bit -- results in about 2.0 ohms. The only way to make that coil fit is to have the loops basically touching, which is ok because that improves lateral heat transfer from loop to loop ("microcoil" -- I hate calling it that but that's what everyone calls it). Slide 2mm rope silica in the coil. The coil size with the 51 bit is large enough that it's easy enough to thread in there. I have tried many different coil sizes and so far, the larger coil size that's easier to thread works just as we'll if not better than a tighter coil.

Two, 1 mm rope silica flavor wicks on top, just like the factory build.

i also tried cotton wicks and I got a lot of good advice here from some of the guys who are good with that. It really did work great (absolutely outstanding really) but I gave up on it because I could never get one to last with that same great performance through a full day or two of vaping. You may have better luck with it so worth a try.

 

[release the kraken]

I have been researching the same thing. I am going to stick with evod tank and attys long term and just learn how to rebuild the heads. In my research so far, I found this to be the best place for the wicks and coil in super bulk. Its $22 for 30 FEET of 3mm silica (they have other mm available as well and then $5 for 100 FEET of the 32 gauge coil. So for a little over $30 with shipping, I think you have enough silica and coil to last a few generations. They also have huge sheets of SS mesh for $15.
Amazon.com At a Glance: Lightning Vapes LLC

This lady always has easy to follow and detailed rebuild vids so here is hers for evod/protank (and basically backs up everything retrox said). She recommends 32 gauge and 3mm and she has never steered me wrong before.
Vapor Lady Lounge Rebuild a Protank Atomizer, eVod Atomizer A New Way - YouTube

So I think I have the HOW and the MATERIALS down but I am still trying to find is the solution to the last following piece of how many wraps and ohms I should do for the best experience. If you have that info pls share . I have done the research on calculating ohms and volts and wattages and I get the math but I still don't get how to apply those totals to vv/vw devices. I am getting my first vv/vw in the mail soon so with the evod do I want a 1.5-1.8 ohm coiling or a 2.5-3 for "best experience" or giving me the widest range on allowing me to "find the sweetspot"

 

[Penn]

I have had a bunch of Kangers (T3, MT3S, EVOD, Pro Tank 1&2, and Mini's). They are all showing their age. I still have spare coils but wanted to try wrapping some of my own

Don't want to do anything fancy, but just wanted opinions the gage of Wire and the Silica size. I was thinking about starting out with 32 gage and 3mm wic.

Any suggestions on the best place to buy?

Thanks

If the T3 is actually that and not a t3s, do that one last. All the others have removable heads so you can work with them easily. The t3 being a head and base as 1 piece makes putting the grommet an pin back in difficult.

I used the machine screw method with 1.5mm wick and a 2.5screw. Placement is a bit more tricky on these kangers since you need to be above the entry hole and below the top airpost without touching either. Avoiding the top is helped by putting the flavor wick/s in place and put the airpost on to hold the coil where you need it then put the bottom pieces back in.

ETA - using 32 gauge kanthal on the 2.5 screw and a 4/5 wrap I ranged form 1.8 to 2.0 ohms.

 

[release the kraken]

Nevermind. I found this chart that made the light bulbs go off and made me feel a little better I wasn't going have the device melt in my hand. https://store-549f5.mybigcommerce.com/product_images/uploaded_images/voltagechart-lg.jpg

I had previously been looking at this and a few others just like it and they freaked me out a little thinking I was going to melt my equipment as their acceptable ranges were so narrow. http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9dkanCt0I1qc8949o2_1280.png

 

[release the kraken]

I think though I am going to start with a sampler pack of 2 and 3 mm wicks and 10 foot each of 28-34 gauge coil from here
Rebuildables/Tanks

That way I can have plenty of trial and error while I figure out the exact specs I want to use before buying bulk. For around 10 bucks you can get a couple feet of each mm wick and 10 ft of each gauge wire. I also recalculated with shipping and there were no shipping charges. Ymmv though.

 

[Fizzpop]

+1 for the 3mm silica wick and 32ga Kanthal. I use this to re-build my T3 coils. If you don't have the upgraded T3s coils, it can be a bit of a bear to work down inside the eGo threads, but it can be done. I highly recommend the T3s coils, they are so easy to rebuild.

I generally do about 5 wraps and it gets me in the 2.5ohm neighborhood.

I've never tried SS mesh, but I have a broken ceramic wick from my Genny, I may have to see if I can shoehorn that into a T3 coil... I feel a project coming on.

 

[Penn]

Fizz, if he has a T3 the only way T3s coils will help is to get the t3s replacement base. I figure you know that, just trying to be helpful.

 

[Fizzpop]

Fizz, if he has a T3 the only way T3s coils will help is to get the t3s replacement base. I figure you know that, just trying to be helpful.

Of course. A cheap upgrade, nonetheless.

 

[Mad Scientist]

Nevermind. I found this chart that made the light bulbs go off and made me feel a little better I wasn't going have the device melt in my hand. https://store-549f5.mybigcommerce.com/product_images/uploaded_images/voltagechart-lg.jpg

I had previously been looking at this and a few others just like it and they freaked me out a little thinking I was going to melt my equipment as their acceptable ranges were so narrow. http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9dkanCt0I1qc8949o2_1280.png

I think those charts are on the verge of becoming obsolete (if not there already), and especially so for your own builds. I don't have a rebuilt Kanger head that won't vape just great at 10 watts and up. With some juices, well over 10 watts. Stock atomizers are really compromises to the limits of the batteries then widely available. The batteries have gotten a lot better. Even a 1300 mAh Spinner can knock socks off and last all day.

 

[Dready]

Since I started with RBAs I have not bought a single atomixer for my Protanks, Evod or MT3s. 29g kanthal and 3mm silica.

 

[damnjabbs]

I had decent success with 32ga with loops touching, 1/16 drill bit and just cotton from a q-tip. It was my first go at building my own and was easier then fiddling with silica. I also found "micro coils" to be easier then traditional coils.

 

[Retro68]

I have tried rebuilding my t3s heads (even got it to damn near 2.2 ohms like the original), 2mm silica, 34awg kanthal a1, they fire perfectly and whatnot, however, I keep getting a burned rubber taste (regardless of juice used), any idea why that might be? Tbh, even side by side with an original everything looks the same.....

 

[Penn]

Retro, did you heat the wick and coil before building? Boil the head for 2 minutes after? Either of these removes manufacturing residue.

 

[Retro68]

Yes to the first, no to the second. I just find it strange because I dont have this problem with the coil heads I rebuilt for my mini vivi or my redux's

 

[Baddog]

I have had a bunch of Kangers (T3, MT3S, EVOD, Pro Tank 1&2, and Mini's). They are all showing their age. I still have spare coils but wanted to try wrapping some of my own

Don't want to do anything fancy, but just wanted opinions the gage of Wire and the Silica size. I was thinking about starting out with 32 gage and 3mm wic.

Any suggestions on the best place to buy?

Thanks

I've found that the secret to a successful rebuild with EVODs, Vivi Nova's ect (anything with limited real estate to build coils) are 'microcoils' (all wraps touching). With a microcoil I can get 9 wraps of 28 gauge wire resulting in a 1.4ohm coil that is absolutely amazing. But the best part is that microcoils are the easiest coils to wrap, just remember to heat and quench your coils while squeezing the coil with tweezers or pliers which will cause the coil to retain its tightly wrapped shape.

 

[Butters78]

I've found that the secret to a successful rebuild with EVODs, Vivi Nova's ect (anything with limited real estate to build coils) are 'microcoils' (all wraps touching). With a microcoil I can get 9 wraps of 28 gauge wire resulting in a 1.4ohm coil that is absolutely amazing. But the best part is that microcoils are the easiest coils to wrap, just remember to heat and quench your coils while squeezing the coil with tweezers or pliers which will cause the coil to retain its tightly wrapped shape.

Yup and once the coil is bad go ahead and slip it out, dry burn and blow out, and put new cotton in.