Coil Won't Glow Red
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Hello and welcome. Is it heating up at all? Do you have a meter to check the resistance of the coil? That's where Id start, checking the resistance. If you have the proper resistance then you likely have a bad connection in the mod somewhere.
Yes it does heat I still can vape on it fine I just belive that if it heated more I'd get more vapor production
Do you have an ohm reader? What are the ohms of the coil?
Is it not heating up red when the wick is in? Because it's not supposed to heat up red unless you're dry-firing it (with no cotton in). If it's heating up red while the cotton is in (and there's juice on the coils) then you are doing something wrong, and will absolutely burn your wicking material. Your coil should not glow while in use, only when dry-burning (with no cotton in).
The black stuff, I assume, is carbon/residue from your juice. It's very normal, and a dry-burn (with no cotton in, of course) usually gets that stuff off. I also run my RDA's (build deck with coils still attached) under water when I'm rewicking, just simple tap water, and dry 'em off by dry firing.
Is it not heating up red when the wick is in? Because it's not supposed to heat up red unless you're dry-firing it (with no cotton in). If it's heating up red while the cotton is in (and there's juice on the coils) then you are doing something wrong, and will absolutely burn your wicking material. Your coil should not glow while in use, only when dry-burning (with no cotton in).
The black stuff, I assume, is carbon/residue from your juice. It's very normal, and a dry-burn (with no cotton in, of course) usually gets that stuff off. I also run my RDA's (build deck with coils still attached) under water when I'm rewicking, just simple tap water, and dry 'em off by dry firing.
I do not have a ohm reader but you answered my question. Would 28 gauge be a good gauge for my setup?
I don't know, and neither do you unless you get an ohm reader.
Get an ohm reader. Don't build without knowing the ohms of your coils. It could result in a "worst case scenario" type situation. You don't want to see that happen. (And neither do I, really.)
[edit]
Also, have you cleaned the contacts in the Nemesis lately (510, positive pin, switch, threads, etc...)?
What Ohm reader do you recommend that's a good price? Also I bought a ipv2 mini 70 watt could I put my patriot on there and putting it at 70 watts
You need to get a ohm reader to even know what you are building and check the resistance and with a unregulated mod you are walking dangerous ground. You need to think safety first. Suppose what you are building is way to low and you don't know it then all of a sudden your battery vents. Just my 2 cents
yeah man -- use the mod with a built in ohm meter -- no harm in that -- especially since its regulated it will keep anything bad from happening.
I have several ohm meters but honestly I just use my ipv3
its more accurate than my fluke anyway
Oh! Well I mean, it's not an "ohm reader", but you can at least spot-check your ohms using your IPV.
I recommend using a regulated device anyway, if you're new to building. You'll be able to build a large range of resistances and still dial-in the wattage to get the vape you want -- you don't have this option on an unregulated device (ie: mech mod).
You can use Steam Engine | free vaping calculators to calculate/play with resistances of coils. I'd suggest trying a simple ~1 ohm build before you begin trying anything crazy. The nice part about the regulated device (and you'll probably quickly realize this) is that you can keep your vape super consistent, almost regardless of the resistance of the coils. Additionally, you don't experience the voltage drop that you do with a mech mod. As you drain your battery in a mech mod, the mod will actually hit less hard. With a regulated device the chip in the device can step up or buck down to the voltage you specify. It just gives you more controls over the 4 important variables (voltage, wattage, resistance, amperage).
While we're on the topic, I'm hoping you have some 18650 batteries with a 20A limit (at least)? What kinda batteries you runnin'?
Don't hesitate to start throwing builds on the IPV, it shouldn't fire anything that goes outside of your battery's amperage (if all the circuitry is working right). Don't put a .01 ohm coil on there and expect everything to be hunky-dory though.
Edit:
To find out the lowest resistance you can go, you just need to know the amperage of your battery. Most 18650 batteries are 20A these days, and most that claim to be more than 20A are somewhat suspect.
I recommend using a regulated device anyway, if you're new to building. You'll be able to build a large range of resistances and still dial-in the wattage to get the vape you want -- you don't have this option on an unregulated device (ie: mech mod).
You can use Steam Engine | free vaping calculators to calculate/play with resistances of coils. I'd suggest trying a simple ~1 ohm build before you begin trying anything crazy. The nice part about the regulated device (and you'll probably quickly realize this) is that you can keep your vape super consistent, almost regardless of the resistance of the coils. Additionally, you don't experience the voltage drop that you do with a mech mod. As you drain your battery in a mech mod, the mod will actually hit less hard. With a regulated device the chip in the device can step up or buck down to the voltage you specify. It just gives you more controls over the 4 important variables (voltage, wattage, resistance, amperage).
While we're on the topic, I'm hoping you have some 18650 batteries with a 20A limit (at least)? What kinda batteries you runnin'?
Don't hesitate to start throwing builds on the IPV, it shouldn't fire anything that goes outside of your battery's amperage (if all the circuitry is working right). Don't put a .01 ohm coil on there and expect everything to be hunky-dory though.
Edit:
To find out the lowest resistance you can go, you just need to know the amperage of your battery. Most 18650 batteries are 20A these days, and most that claim to be more than 20A are somewhat suspect.
How low could I go on ohms because my nemisis fires a Atlantis perfectly and that runs at .5 ohms
Gonna assume it's a VTC4, 20A battery (probably a safe assumption).
At that resistance, the lowest you could theoretically build is .22 ohms. With a fully charged battery, this would put you RIGHT at your amperage limit. You don't want to be at the limit. It's a good idea to allow at least 30-50% headroom to allow variances in the battery/coil/other random factors that you can't exactly control. You can plug the numbers into Steam Engine to figure out what resistances produce what amperage. For example, you can plug in the voltage of your fully charged battery (4.2V) and the resistance of your coil. Steam-Engine will tell you what amperage that's producing, and what wattage that's producing. You can switch the variables around -- the calculator is very dynamic.
Your limit is 20A, but I would suggest keeping it lower than 13A -- that's a metric "....load" of power man.
Its A VTC4 But when it comes to coils if I build a quad coil would that have the same resistance as a single coil?
I was under the impression that Sony VTC4s are 30A, which is what I see them listed as. Is that wrong?
Davidos, which VTC battery and where did you get it? VTC5s will most likely be a fake, they haven't been made in a long time and it seems everyone has run out of old stock. The Sony VTCs get cloned, so it's best to get them from a recommended vendor like Illumn.com. For an Ohm meter I would recommend USA Ohm Meter. There are cheaper ones out there but these are the best IMO and are highly regarded.
When you build a quad coil the resistance is divided by 4. If 1 coil measures out to 1 ohm, then a quad would measure out to .25 ohms.
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