coils on the aga-t

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EddieAdams

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I'd have to respectfully disagree with you on that one. I know quite a few folks here using 28 gauge on their AGAs on Vamos, Zmax's, etc... with no complaints.

Just takes more wraps.
I did a10 wrap with 28. It glowed evenly but, needed a second to warm up. I'm new but, I'm trying everything every way. Not a big fan of the really low ohm coils. It" burns" the liquid imo. 1.8 would be my limit.
To each his own...
 

PepNYC

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You in on karns coop too?

You'll be happy with it, love mine from r2....just sans the switch face and positive post inside before you use it or it miss fires like crazy.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

Nah. I got mine a few months back from Hoosier when they went on sale. I think I paid like $26.

Really nice mech mod for the $$$.
 

PepNYC

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Personally,I had no issues with 32 round kanthal. I have a drill bit that fits the wick hole perfect. I do anywhere from 4-6 wraps ( mood)on the drill bit and get a perfect coil every time.While the coil is still on the drill bit I place it in the wick hole and fasten the ends of the coil to the posts. Now I have a coil that it's perfectly aligned with the wick hole. Remove the drill bit slowly.
I then take my stainless mesh wick I've already oxidized and fitted and slide it through the coil and wick hole.
whalaaa

Other notes.
helps if you remove the unused screw. otherwise you get a vacuum effect with thicker liquids. Thin ones not such an issue.
I also instead well use three pieces of 1mm natural hemp twine instead of ss mesh. It's a little trickier but, not a fan of the ss mesh. This I do with the aga apart. Feed the twine through the wick hole leaving extra on both sides. assemble. Make your coil of choice on the drill bit but, now you have to slide your coil over the wick gently and attach. Worth it imo. With the extra wick inside the tank you can just slide some out and have new wick.

I've done it this way many times. With the drill bit. Coil comes out perfect every time. My problem is once I get the wick in there it all goes to heck. Hotspots and the eventually the coil pops. I've poked, prodded and pleaded to no avail. I dunno. Maybe one day I'll get it right.
 

PepNYC

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I did a10 wrap with 28. It glowed evenly but, needed a second to warm up. I'm new but, I'm trying everything every way. Not a big fan of the really low ohm coils. It" burns" the liquid imo. 1.8 would be my limit.
To each his own...

I'm not debating that it may burn the juice. Makes sense seeing that it burns hotter. All I'm saying is it can be done on devices other than mechanical.

I doubt anyone likes the burnt juice taste. I know I sure don't.
 

WuWei

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Other notes.
helps if you remove the unused screw. otherwise you get a vacuum effect with thicker liquids. Thin ones not such an issue.

You could replace the screw with a tiny ball valve. That would prevent leakage issues. What size are the screws?


Could someone please please respond to my first post earlier up? I'd really appreciate it as I'm somewhat clueless as to how mesh size affects wicking with thick liquids. I understand you would want a high resistance/thinner coil wire for higher temperature, is that correct?
 

EddieAdams

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I've done it this way many times. With the drill bit. Coil comes out perfect every time. My problem is once I get the wick in there it all goes to heck. Hotspots and the eventually the coil pops. I've poked, prodded and pleaded to no avail. I dunno. Maybe one day I'll get it right.
nice thing about it is you can really pull the legs( ends of the coil) tight around the posts. Then I make sure they're spaced evenly and that the bottom coil isn't touching the base. it's worked well for me...
also I make sure to connect on the side that when tightened will pull the wire into it. With the wick hole closest to you from a over head view it would be the left side of both posts.
 

EddieAdams

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I'm not debating that it may burn the juice. Makes sense seeing that it burns hotter. All I'm saying is it can be done on devices other than mechanical.

I doubt anyone likes the burnt juice taste. I know I sure don't.

Sorry, didn't mean to come off like that. Lose the nuances in text..
 

EddieAdams

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You could replace the screw with a tiny ball valve. That would prevent leakage issues. What size are the screws?


Could someone please please respond to my first post earlier up? I'd really appreciate it as I'm somewhat clueless as to how mesh size affects wicking with thick liquids. I understand you would want a high resistance/thinner coil wire for higher temperature, is that correct?
Tiny. Can't imagine one that small. If you find one let me know.
I can't be sure about actual temperature. 6 wraps of 32 ( thinner wire higher ohms) will not heat as quickly or as easily as 6 wraps of 28( thicker wire and lower ohms) when made the same size coils and given the same power. More surface area of the 28 would heat more area and faster because of its lower resistance... hope that helps..
 

PepNYC

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nice thing about it is you can really pull the legs( ends of the coil) tight around the posts. Then I make sure they're spaced evenly and that the bottom coil isn't touching the base. it's worked well for me...
also I make sure to connect on the side that when tightened will pull the wire into it. With the wick hole closest to you from a over head view it would be the left side of both posts.

I just received some 28 gauge I ordered Tuesday. That was some fast shipping. Anyway, I just recoiled my Vulcan and it's working really well. The 28 gauge is much easier to work with. Seems
to hold its shape a lot better. Much less "springy" and hugs the wick better.

However, I see what you guys are saying about the resistance. I got a 5/6 coil and the resistance is still way to low for me. And, I see what you're saying about burning the juice. If I try to chain vape I get a nice little hint of "burnt".

I think I'm going to have to give some 30 gauge a shot or get some more wraps in there but I have to say, this thing is hitting like a freight train. Wow.
 

EddieAdams

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I just received some 28 gauge I ordered Tuesday. That was some fast shipping. Anyway, I just recoiled my Vulcan and it's working really well. The 28 gauge is much easier to work with. Seems
to hold its shape a lot better. Much less "springy" and hugs the wick better.

However, I see what you guys are saying about the resistance. I got a 5/6 coil and the resistance is still way to low for me. And, I see what you're saying about burning the juice. If I try to chain vape I get a nice little hint of "burnt".

I think I'm going to have to give some 30 gauge a shot or get some more wraps in there but I have to say, this thing is hitting like a freight train. Wow.
I have some 30 on the way too. Be nice to try it out. 32 is it for me for now. Anyone want to buy 48'2" of 28 gauge? It's also easier to bend after heating, which I always do to remove any impurities.
May I suggest you try a Kanger EVOD out. I can't say enough good things about them. Slightly cooler vapor, not significant though and really nice flavor and vapor. So easy to rebuild the heads. I have 2 pro tanks coming. I always remove the silica wick and go with 1mm twine. 1 through the coil and 1 over. Don't tell anyone but,I think I may like them better then my AGA-T2...shhhh
They only ever leak at the bottom bottom of the tank when one side of the wick is exposed...
 

PepNYC

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I have some 30 on the way too. Be nice to try it out. 32 is it for me for now. Anyone want to buy 48'2" of 28 gauge? It's also easier to bend after heating, which I always do to remove any impurities.
May I suggest you try a Kanger EVOD out. I can't say enough good things about them. Slightly cooler vapor, not significant though and really nice flavor and vapor. So easy to rebuild the heads. I have 2 pro tanks coming. I always remove the silica wick and go with 1mm twine. 1 through the coil and 1 over. Don't tell anyone but,I think I may like them better then my AGA-T2...shhhh
They only ever leak at the bottom bottom of the tank when one side of the wick is exposed...

Haven't tried an Evod yet. I have a few MT3s and they work ok. I do the same. I remove the silica but I replace it with braided cotton. They are definitely more convenient to tote around than an RBA. My RBAs usually stay home with my mods. My MT3s and eGo's usually hit the road with me.

All this tinkering and rebuilding sure takes a lot of time. Once I get these RBAs figured out I think I'll be giving it a rest for a bit. I have an Aga t2+ on the way. Once that arrives I'm done. I have exhausted my vape budget beyond reason.

Time to dust off the old carto tanks. Can't get much more simpler or cheaper than that.

Oh wait, I have a tax refund coming soon. Heh heh. Hmmmmm...
 

elmattias

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Haven't tried an Evod yet. I have a few MT3s and they work ok. I do the same. I remove the silica but I replace it with braided cotton. They are definitely more convenient to tote around than an RBA. My RBAs usually stay home with my mods. My MT3s and eGo's usually hit the road with me.

All this tinkering and rebuilding sure takes a lot of time. Once I get these RBAs figured out I think I'll be giving it a rest for a bit. I have an Aga t2+ on the way. Once that arrives I'm done. I have exhausted my vape budget beyond reason.

Time to dust off the old carto tanks. Can't get much more simpler or cheaper than that.

Oh wait, I have a tax refund coming soon. Heh heh. Hmmmmm...

hey man i still rock my carto tanks, i have a ton of rebuildable stuff too though....

i mean, the DiD, AGA-T, AGA-T2, AGA-S2, Odysseus, Terminator dripper, Terminator-C.....and i use all of em :)
 

EddieAdams

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Haven't tried an Evod yet. I have a few MT3s and they work ok. I do the same. I remove the silica but I replace it with braided cotton. They are definitely more convenient to tote around than an RBA. My RBAs usually stay home with my mods. My MT3s and eGo's usually hit the road with me.

All this tinkering and rebuilding sure takes a lot of time. Once I get these RBAs figured out I think I'll be giving it a rest for a bit. I have an Aga t2+ on the way. Once that arrives I'm done. I have exhausted my vape budget beyond reason.

Time to dust off the old carto tanks. Can't get much more simpler or cheaper than that.

Oh wait, I have a tax refund coming soon. Heh heh. Hmmmmm...

Totally get the spending. They're relatively cheap and vastly improved than the t3s that I have. I couldn't tell you why they perform so much better but, they do. Maybe the smaller tank or wick opening prevent the gurgles and flooding. More pleasant mouthpiece, easy viewing. The removable atomizer from the base makes it silly easy to rebuild. Less than 5 minutes.
With standard 2.5 ohm they need 3.7v or higher to perform. I suggest a low resistance 1.9ohm head for non VV batteries. Hoping you get that refund soon.
 

PepNYC

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Totally get the spending. They're relatively cheap and vastly improved than the t3s that I have. I couldn't tell you why they perform so much better but, they do. Maybe the smaller tank or wick opening prevent the gurgles and flooding. More pleasant mouthpiece, easy viewing. The removable atomizer from the base makes it silly easy to rebuild. Less than 5 minutes.
With standard 2.5 ohm they need 3.7v or higher to perform. I suggest a low resistance 1.9ohm head for non VV batteries. Hoping you get that refund soon.

That's good to know because you just reminded me of why I said the MT3s were just "ok". Those darn gurgles and leaking. Sounds like Kanger made a few beneficial modifications. I may very well have to spend a few bucks of that refund on a few Evods.
 

StaircaseWit

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I'd have to respectfully disagree with you on that one. I know quite a few folks here using 28 gauge on their AGAs on Vamos, Zmax's, etc... with no complaints.

Just takes more wraps.

28 is too slow unless you push a VV mod to its max settings. It can even be slow on a mech mod if resistance is too high. I have a bunch of 28, and I still consider it only for the more extreme vaper seeking super-low ohms. In more regular 1.8-2.2ohm vaping, it's basically useless. 30g is much more usable for decent resistance numbers and speed of heating.



hey man i still rock my carto tanks, i have a ton of rebuildable stuff too though....

i mean, the DiD, AGA-T, AGA-T2, AGA-S2, Odysseus, Terminator dripper, Terminator-C.....and i use all of em :)

I tried to go back, even for pocket use. That carto taste just didn't do it for me after RBAs. Just one person's opinion, but I have have a bunch of cartos I can't stand the taste of now.
 

elmattias

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28 is too slow unless you push a VV mod to its max settings. It can even be slow on a mech mod if resistance is too high. I have a bunch of 28, and I still consider it only for the more extreme vaper seeking super-low ohms. In more regular 1.8-2.2ohm vaping, it's basically useless. 30g is much more usable for decent resistance numbers and speed of heating.

"slow" makes no sense....in a technical sense, since the resistance is lower, the amperage would be much, much higher, thus electricity moving through the coil much faster (which is why 28 works so well on mechanical mods also)

if you're talking about heating up time, i really have no idea what you speak of, as it is nearly instant on most everything i use, and on a mech, it glows as soon as the button is pushed (at an average of 7 amps to the coil)

i understand all the talk of wire temperature and whatnot, however, i've noticed that the only way the heat is any cooler using 28 is when the wattage is extreme much like on the mechanical mods, however, that's dealing with low voltage, high amperage....you lose most of the heat when it spreads to the wick....higher voltage i find strains the coil and makes more of a central heat that burns through juice....

simple way to experiment and see for yourself: take two atomizers, both identical, wrap a 1.4 ohm coil on one using 28 kanthal, next, attach the one with the 1.4 to a Zmax with stacked batteries, and the other to a mechanical......now the Zmax with stacked batteries disregards amp limitations in variable voltage mode, therefore it can actually surpass it's 15 watt power regulation limit by pushing 6 volts to that 1.4 ohm coil in VV mode, which would be right at 26 watts.

now vape that. it's horrible.

second atomizer up, wrap .8 ohms on it with the 28 kanthal, and put it on the mech with a fresh battery and vape it....22.05 watts and it's an amazing vape, hell even 29 or 30 watts on a mechanical is amazing (.6 ohm coil) and i have a strong feeling it's because of the weaker imput signal.
 

Devilok

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I use 28g Kanthal with .7 ohms on my mech mods and its vaping bliss. I also have 30g Kanthal that works really well if I want a higher resistance. I have never cared for the 32g, its just too flimsy. My favorite though is the flat ribbon wire, I recently purchased a big spool of the .8x2 (similar to 28g) and man, this stuff is awesome. Absolutely no issues with hot spots, more vape, more flavor, can't say enough good things about it.
 
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