Coils useless after one tank

[DaveP]

Hmm....... What ever happened to rotating and cleaning?
I have coil heads that made it 6 months and longer without failing.
Rotated out every few tanks, cleaned and dry burned before placing back in use.

With a Protank coil I tend to destroy the flavor wicks taking them off to dry burn. When that happens I usually replace them with silica rope cut to length. I have a zip lock bag full of Kangers and another bag with nautilus heads. I re-coil both with a single coil and the flavor is good. I'm too lazy most of the time to start the assembly line, so I end up with a bag full of re-coils waiting to happen.

Some day, a vendor will produce heads that don't clog and are easy to rebuild. Wait, RBA's are kind of like that.

 

[Thaurin]

Lots of great information and suggestions, I have yet to read page 2. But this is just insane, I changed the coil yesterday and after have a tank, I already started to get less vape. I just put in ANOTHER new one and the vape is back. The thing is, I don't think it's always been this way, I do remember a time when these tanks worked better.

The insane part is that this happened with the ProTank II too, which should be a very good tank from what I've heard. So yeah, maybe I should switch liquids, because I think that has stayed the same since all of this.

I'll also try cleaning some of those bad coils to see if that fixes them. This is way too fast for any coil to go bad.

 

[vanillayo]

I love my T3S's! I've rarely had any problems with them. I just make sure to wash the tank out between flavors and I rebuild with cotton yarn.

 

[Tinkiegrrl]

Lots of great information and suggestions, I have yet to read page 2. But this is just insane, I changed the coil yesterday and after have a tank, I already started to get less vape. I just put in ANOTHER new one and the vape is back. The thing is, I don't think it's always been this way, I do remember a time when these tanks worked better.

The insane part is that this happened with the ProTank II too, which should be a very good tank from what I've heard. So yeah, maybe I should switch liquids, because I think that has stayed the same since all of this.

I'll also try cleaning some of those bad coils to see if that fixes them. This is way too fast for any coil to go bad.

It's not the tanks. It's the coils. Kanger's quality control is iffy at best. Sometimes they'll release a batch of excellent coils, sometimes they'll release a batch of terrible ones.

 

[rhnda1225]

After reading all of this thread and doing a quick search of youtube and the internet, I think I can dry burn after cleaning. I've been cleaning the tanks and base but not the coil head and coil. Also, I've been vaping the same six coils for two weeks with no problems but I've been cleaning after each tank. I'm using 65/35, 50/50 and 100 VG. I would think next one would do the cotton swap out...so to speak. I'll read up on that and give it a go when necessary. Sorry to just jump in!

 

[herb]

I've never used Kanger T3s but I have used other clearos. Every coil gets gunked up over time, no matter what device it's in. How quickly that happens depends on the juice you're using, the power you put on the coil and how sensitive you are to the change in performance. The coil will remain acceptable for a certain amount of ML of juice.

My first suggestion is that you learn how to dry burn your heads. Google it and you'll find a bunch of videos and articles on it. I've made Vivi Nova heads last for months by dry burning them regularly. I do not know if Kanger T3s will perform that well over time, but I'm pretty sure regular dry burning will make a huge difference in your vape experience.

Good luck with it

Is dry burning the same as just removing the wick and putting the power to the coil to burn off contaminants ?

 

[BuddJohnson]

Is dry burning the same as just removing the wick and putting the power to the coil to burn off contaminants ?

Yes, you can DB the coil with the silica wick in or out. If you take the old wick out you'll have to thread a new piece in tho, it can be a fidgety process but is doable. You need to fashion a 'threader' that is made of the thin Kanthal or Nichrome wire, the same type that is used for rebuilding coils.
Apply the power in 2-3 second pulses tho, so as not to singe the rubber insulator inside the Protank head.

GL

 

[crtman4]

Only issue I had with T3s is mine are lower ohm than CEs and burn hotter, every time I put a sweet vanilla flavor in they toast and taste terrible. So some flavors I don't use in them. The GeJ net flavors worked fine in them however. Mild flavors don't seem to come through as well.

When one fails I wash it off with hot water, let it run on the bare coil for a minute. Then I dry burn it (or let it dry then do it, its faster). Then take old CE coils and use the extra wick for new flavor wicks (after letting it cool and rinsing it again and letting it dry....if not in a hurry) and assemble it again. When it blows up I put a new one in. I bought some premade wicks from FT now I can drop one in and trim the wick, its a really easy deal to rebuild the coils until I get up to speed on winding them and all. Its $3 for a bag of 50 or something like that.

I tried doing them without the flavor wick and they leak and gurgle a lot, I don't think it fills the hole on the side enough. At least when using premade wicks.

I think my mini t3s is one of the best setups I have for many flavors, and the small size is ideal for me.

Also notice if you hit one a few times hard they heat up and can burn easily, so I swap to another if I have to hit them that much in a short time. One advantage to having many small egos lol, you can get too lazy to swap clearos you just store them on your spare batteries.

Not tried to take the wick out of one yet, have played around with my rdas some but not the clearos. I need to buy some wire and supplies.

Should add its is likely you are getting it too hot or the juice you are using is causing your issues. I can take a couple long hits on mine and taste them getting really hot and starting to burn. Letting them sit a while seems to cure it for minimal problems like this. I would guess I get 3-6 tanks out of them before a DB/cleaning. I don't do a thing between tanks just fill it up. I rinse DB usually if changing flavors.

 

[edyle]

My goodness! It was a miracle! I tried changing the wick to cotton, messed up 2 kanger double coil. It was an old one I kept, the first 2 was so gunked up I simply cant pull out the old wick..but after I succeeded, oh my! It tasted so good!!



Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

put the gunked up coils to soak in hot water.

the get the old wick out tug at the soaked wick with tweezers; they usually come out easily after soaking.

if you have silica wicks you can dryburn them clean while still in the coil.

 

[edyle]

There's nothing like a new coil. Protank, Evod, or Nautilus, they are all good for the first day or two. I usually get a week or more from a Nautilus coil, but those have dropped in quality lately.

If you are constantly getting only a day out of a Protank coil, try some clear juices and see if you don't get much longer life. If it isn't see through, it has undissolved solids floating in it. Those will burn on your coil and gunk it up. It's one of the reasons I like Dekang juices. Most are clear even though they are different colors depending on the flavor.

I won't name the vendor, but I ordered some juice named Tobacco lately and it was cloudy and had dark brown particles that floated up to the top and formed a ring after a day of sitting. I used to order Dekang Tobacco from the same vendor and it was a clear yellow. This vendor has created their own juice and dropped Dekang. My email reply about the cloudiness and undissolved particles said that the residue was normal and it's their proprietary tobacco flavoring. The juice tastes really good, but it eats a coil a day.

I'm going off here but:

Won't name the vendor? Why?
You named another vendor: Dekang.

Isn't it just a waste of typing to type "I won't name the vendor", and I dunno how many thousands of eyereads of other people to read the non-informative "I won't name the vendor".

 

[edyle]

Is dry burning the same as just removing the wick and putting the power to the coil to burn off contaminants ?

You don't have to remove silica wick.

Dry burn with the silica wick in place.

OR replace with cotton after dryburning.
Stop throwing away your protank coils – ITCVapes

 

[sharchakra]

I use T3s and Evods almost exclusively, I have never dry burned any. When mine start tasting burnt, or just not vaping up to snuff, I change them, clean them, air dry them and put them away in case I ever need to use them or recoil them again. Mine usually last a good 5-8 refills, possibly more. Sometimes, while vaping out in the heat, they give off almost no vapor, but when I get home in the cool house, they vape like crazy again! I just had that problem today at work and took it apart, back together, still not much vapor. Now at home, great again
There are a lot of things that could be wrong and not neccessarily that they are clogged. Could be the temp and humidity, loose atomizer head, contact not touching atomizer head, battery not charged...etc. sometimes it is the simplest things...Check those first.
Never figured out what dry burning actually does for them anyway. Too cheap to be so fiddley

 

[Ryedan]

Never figured out what dry burning actually does for them anyway. Too cheap to be so fiddley

When I used clearos I dry burned stock heads not long after the first sign of declining performance. Once you have the process down, it takes a few minutes and your done. I've had the same head last over 60 tanks which is over 100 ML. Sure they're cheap, but why waste them if they're so easy to clean? Plus, when you clean them regularly, performance is always great.

 

[m1911]

put the gunked up coils to soak in hot water.

the get the old wick out tug at the soaked wick with tweezers; they usually come out easily after soaking.

if you have silica wicks you can dryburn them clean while still in the coil.

Ah ok. Thanks

Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk

 

[tayone415]

All coils eventually gunk up and die. Residue from vaporizing the liquid gets left behind. That shouldn't mean that the tanks themselves are useless though. Once you clean the tank and replace the coils, they should be fine.... When you replace the coils in one of your dead tanks, do they screw in all the way? Are they making contact with your battery? If it isn't firing, it could be that it isn't making contact with your battery well. Use isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip to clean the battery pin. If it still isn't making contact, then take some tweezers and gently pull the bottom of the installed coil down every so slightly. My guess is that after a few times screwing down each tank, you may be pushing things up too far, or even pushing your battery pin down too far.

Some good points mentioned above, that I forgot to mention, to add to this, if you screw your tank in to tight or if your battery charges with a 510 dongle usb charger, you don't want to over tighten it. What you want to do is screw it in gently until it is no longer lose and for charging just enough for the charging light to turn green. One thing to try but be careful doing is to first lock your device so you can not fire it, then take something to very carefully and slightly lift the top pin on all sides on the 510 threading where your tank sits and makes contact. But do NOT over lift it since you can damage or kill your device. And yes the q tip with rubbing alcohol does work also use it on the 510 connection on your tank.

Other things to mention, I also forgot if juice levels are low your coil will flood, and gurgle and not vape well and over filling can cause a leak at the bottom that you won't see unless you remove the tank and look at the contact of the battery also at times I've had my coils loosen up and become not attached completely.

 

[rhnda1225]

After reading this thread, I went home and did a dry burn on two coils. I impressed myself. ha Anyway, thanks so much!!

 

[Cookie60]

I'd be so pathetic if I didn't read all these voices of experience. Getting better and better at quality vaping! Thanks!

 

[DaveP]

I'm going off here but:

Won't name the vendor? Why?
You named another vendor: Dekang.

Isn't it just a waste of typing to type "I won't name the vendor", and I dunno how many thousands of eyereads of other people to read the non-informative "I won't name the vendor".

Dekang is a multi-billion dollar company. The vendor owns a local B&M store and has no control over head quality, they just sell parts they order in quantity. My vendor is on top of the problem and has already swapped out 5 heads, hoping to get made whole by the supply chain link who supplies her with parts to sell.

I see no reason to name someone who has no control over quality other than discontinuing a popular line for quality issues if they aren't fixed. Kanger heads have always been iffy, but lately they have been worse.

 

[Thaurin]

As a followup to my original post, I have ordered a new batch of coils now with a liquid from Halo (Tabacco) instead of Dekang. I'm using 2.2 ohm now instead of 1.8 ohm, and I'm not sure if it's the batch, the ohm or the liquid, but I'm in my third tank and it's still going well. I'm hopeful.

 

[jaxgator]

Clearomizers are popular for novices because they are easy to fill and easy to replace the coil heads. But, their very design is inferior by using inadequate coils and wick material. In order to get them to work long term, they become high maintanance. Think about it. The manufacturers design these so that they can make recurring money on replacement coil heads. The manufacturers don't care so much about quality control, they just want you to keep buying more crappy coils more often. It puts more money in their pockets. It's a sad way to run a business, but that's the way I see it.

This. Similar to razor (blades) and printer (cartridges) companies.