Confused Mech Owner

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MechWarrior

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Nov 22, 2014
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Here's how my first month, smoke free, is looking at the end...I need some help please!

I bought a clone Panzer, it broke. I bought a clone Stingray, it broke. I paid almost $100 for a Tugboat mod and I'm loving it. Only problem is it DRAINS batteries like no other. At least three a day. Not only that, but the local vape shop is owned by an old head that seems to just want to offer basic knowledge and not talk about the issues I'm having unless he's making a big sale. So much so that he interrupts my liquid purchases to help other customers shop for a new mod. Other than finding a new vape shop, can someone help me with some questions? Why does a hybrid floating, straight to RDA mod kills batteries quicker than Panzers or Stingrays? Also, I use a Tobh RDA with a 4 coil build (is that how I explain that?) And I have no idea about coils and ohms and I understand resistance but what does 8 coils do that 4 doesn't? Faster heat? Slower? Lower/Higher resistance? I use cotton (A little Bit of Heaven) and I enjoy a bigger bore on my drip tip but now, with a bigger bore, I am getting more and more e liquid splattering out of the top. It's hitting my tongue and burning in my mouth. Is it a give and take with hole size and splattering of the liquid? Sorry for the horrible form in which I asked all the questions but you guys have some great knowledge and I just want to pick your brains for some information. 30 days, analog free. Thanks to vaping and this forum.
 

Topwater Elvis

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Dec 26, 2012
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First thing I'd suggest is to stop using any coil(s) that you don't know the exact resistance of (verified by an ohm meter).
Not trying to be rude or sound harsh but;
Your questions especially basic battery saftey are something you should already know the answers to before using mechanical & rba's with sub ohm resistances.
Sub ohm vaping can result in dangerous conditions without basic knowledge & equipment and is not a safe place to start vaping.

What batteries are you using. Brand name, mah, amp rating (CDR expressed in amps)
Do you own and know how to use some sort of a meter to measure resistance & volts.
If the answer to the above two questions is ' I don't know / no ' I suggest stop using the set up.
 

MechWarrior

Full Member
Nov 22, 2014
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Thanks for the reply! Anytime I can get any answers by an experienced user, I won't take them as rudeness but thank you for sharing knowledge. It's a 1.2 build and yes I have a multimeter. Not sure where sub-ohmimg was mentioned but Def not doing that lol. I understand the dangers and definitely won't be dabbling in sub-ohm builds. I didn't know what the difference would be as far as more coils or less as far as flavor and heat and was told by two shops 8 is better than 4. Sony 18650 and MXJO batteries. Mx is 3.7 volt and Sony is 4.3. Mah for mx is 2500 and 35 amps. Sony is unlabeled but standard18650.
 

Lessifer

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Feb 5, 2013
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This is definitely not a Simple Solutions post.

First, shame on that shop for selling and building that setup for you without teaching you all about it. Powering 4 coils at that low resistance will drain those batteries fast. Have you ever tried a single coil at around 1ohm, or a dual coil? Unless you're entering cloud competitions, your setup is overkill.

The reason your batteries drain so fast is, you're powering 4 .8ohm wires at the same time, so roughly you're draining four times more power than you would with a single 0.8ohm coil.
 

k702

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Feb 18, 2014
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How did a panzer and stingray "break" ? Mechanical mods in general are simple devices..

I dropped my nemesis out of a moving car, it was run over and shot out from under a tire into a sidewalk gutter. A little bit of cleaning up, a new battery and a little pounding out of the lock ring and it works as good as ever.

I find it hard to understand how you could break either a panzer or a stingray, and you didn't give any other information about how they "broke"
 

The Ocelot

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Aug 12, 2012
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How did a panzer and stingray "break" ? Mechanical mods in general are simple devices..

I dropped my nemesis out of a moving car, it was run over and shot out from under a tire into a sidewalk gutter. A little bit of cleaning up, a new battery and a little pounding out of the lock ring and it works as good as ever.

I find it hard to understand how you could break either a panzer or a stingray, and you didn't give any other information about how they "broke"

I wanted to ask that, but I got scared.
 

MechWarrior

Full Member
Nov 22, 2014
13
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Apparently he put the Tobh build at .21 and I thought it was 1.2. It burned through liquid and spattered hot e liquid in my mouth. I got it rebuilt today at .41. Solved the said issues. It is a 5 coil dual and uses 26 wire. Said 18650 batteries were fine and safety was not an issue since it was .41 .21 builds and not lower. I understand electronics and resistance but was weary of sub ohm builds from all the "pipe bomb" talk on the internet. Use battery, charge battery and vape clouds was his philosophy and I'll be fine. Please understand that I am very knowledgeable about everything electronic but it was embarrassing to find out he set me up blind basically and I have to be a noob on the forums about this issue. It's kind of new to me, this whole mechanical mod group questions so thanks to all for the info. To answer the broken mod questions, they are both clones. The HCigar stingray was sharp as hell on all its parts so it sliced my fingers when disconnecting the pieces. The Panzer clone locking mechanism broke. Didn't lock anymore and just spun rendering it useless. That's why I spent $100 on the Tugboat. Should I still be worried about the .4 build since its working great and I'm not a complete idiot about the resistance, ohms and general knowledge? Oh. And thanks to all of you in advance again, this forum site is the reason I'm 30 days off analogs. Here's to you guys, cheers.
 

Lessifer

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Feb 5, 2013
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35A MXJO batteries and the standard Sony 18650. The MXJO is a 3.7 volt.

Ok, so you've got good batteries, that's a relief.

Low resistance and lots of wire will drain batteries. RDA's are all about a balance between power, wicking and airflow. Poke around the rebuildable sub forum, watch youtube, you'll catch on. Best of luck!
 

duc916

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Jul 10, 2012
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Apparently he put the Tobh build at .21 and I thought it was 1.2.

No shop owner ever built a quad-coil setup and said "Yeah, 1.2 ohm! That's about right!"

The guy built that setup to bring you back for more juice more often. He's playing dumb, but he's not dumb. His business relies on his customers being dumb. But he's putting your safety at risk. Call him on it in front of other customers. It's the least you should do.
 

MechWarrior

Full Member
Nov 22, 2014
13
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It's a dual with 4 wraps. He said it was a common set up and everything is good to go as a first time mechanical owner. Meanwhile, I burned through liquid. I guess you can't have the best help everywhere but it's partly my fault as well since I'm the user. Just wish he would've asked since I walked in with a cheap battery setup and left with a mechanical mod so I obviously didn't know much. I even asked him what his sub ohm build was and if he used what I use. He said "No that's too low for me." Lol whaat? Then why would u set it up like that for me as a newbie? Sigh...off to find a different shop.
 

WattWick

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Feb 16, 2013
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Sounds like you're at the verge of making your own coils. Don't be intimidated by it. Much easier than it seems. As long as you check and double check your builds before firing them up - and stay well within your batteries safety limits - you should do just fine.

If you use a DMM you may want to measure resistance at your attys 510 connector too in case there's something shorting inside your atty. Just another safety precaution.
 
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