Connection problems b/w kanger tank and eleaf mod

[wmac]

so last halloween weekend i bought my first ecig. I got an eleaf 20w with a kanger aerotank mini. it was fantastic. got sick of two different flavors i was hitting them so much. but towards the end of its life (late april, early may), it started to have some issues. It would read the 1.2 ohm coil at anywhere from 1.0 to upwards of 2 or 3. and it would change after almost every puff. or if i wiggled the tank around. seemed to be a connection issue. i tested my battery on other tanks and it worked ok but tested my tank on other batteries and they would screw up. i bought a new tank (subtank nano) which i still ahve today. the old battery (20w eleaf) and the nano didn't like each other and had some issues but i soon bought the 30w eleaf and with the nano it was hitting great. I just recently started having problems with the battery reading the resistance differently. it will jump anywhere from .5 ( i use the .5 ohm new vertical occ coil) up to 3.0. i had to switch to voltage so i wouldnt accidentally burn the hell out of my coil/mouth when it read the resistance up at 3 and would hit it at 5 or 6 volts instead of the normal around 4.

has anyone else had a similar problem? i think its the atomizer, but im also starting to consider it might be the tank. my friends nano got messed up and the inside frame that sits around the atomizer (that little square archway (if you have one you know what im talking about)) got bent from just normal usage. Idk if i should switch tanks (im in love with the eleaf so i probably wont switch) or if anyone had any advice or maybe a solution im not thinking of.

thanks!

 

[Sir2fyablyNutz]

so last halloween weekend i bought my first ecig. I got an eleaf 20w with a kanger aerotank mini. it was fantastic. got sick of two different flavors i was hitting them so much. but towards the end of its life (late april, early may), it started to have some issues. It would read the 1.2 ohm coil at anywhere from 1.0 to upwards of 2 or 3. and it would change after almost every puff. or if i wiggled the tank around. seemed to be a connection issue. i tested my battery on other tanks and it worked ok but tested my tank on other batteries and they would screw up. i bought a new tank (subtank nano) which i still ahve today. the old battery (20w eleaf) and the nano didn't like each other and had some issues but i soon bought the 30w eleaf and with the nano it was hitting great. I just recently started having problems with the battery reading the resistance differently. it will jump anywhere from .5 ( i use the .5 ohm new vertical occ coil) up to 3.0. i had to switch to voltage so i wouldnt accidentally burn the hell out of my coil/mouth when it read the resistance up at 3 and would hit it at 5 or 6 volts instead of the normal around 4.

has anyone else had a similar problem? i think its the atomizer, but im also starting to consider it might be the tank. my friends nano got messed up and the inside frame that sits around the atomizer (that little square archway (if you have one you know what im talking about)) got bent from just normal usage. Idk if i should switch tanks (im in love with the eleaf so i probably wont switch) or if anyone had any advice or maybe a solution im not thinking of.

thanks!

Hi @wmac . I was trying to understand what you were asking so I read it a few times.

1. The Eleaf iStick is a regulated mod. This means (in short terms) that if you set the wattage as power, it will set the voltage. If you set the voltage, the mod sets the wattage. It's a safety issue.

2. The iStick 30 watt WILL read the ohms of the coil in the tank. (example .5 ohms ot 1.2 ohms) BUT (important) it DOES NOT set the power in any manner what so ever. Only YOU can set or change the power.

3. Once you find the proper setting for the comfort of your vape (for example 20 watts) in EITHER watts or volts, (you control one, the mod controls the other) you should LOCK the arrow keys. This prevents accidental pushing of the arrow keys which would change the power going to the coil.
3a. To lock the arrow keys place a thumb (the way I found works best for me) over both arrow keys and hold them down for 3 seconds. If you hit one before the other the power will change and you'll have to reset the power back to where you like it. So hold equal pressure down on both arrow keys until the LED screen display says "Lock". Double check the power setting to make certain it is still where you like it.
3b. To "Unlock" the arrow keys so that you may change the power settings use the same method. Hold a thumb over both arrow keys for 3 seconds until the LED screen says "Unlock" and then you can change the power.

4. As far as the jumping in the readings, I have noticed as coils age (get gunked) the resistance will change. In my experience they can go from .5 to .7 ohms.
4a. Switching from wattage mode to voltage mode takes 3 clicks of the fire button on the iStick. 3 quick clicks and it changes back. Wattage/Voltage. If the coil is reading a great change (from .5 to 3.0 )then you have an issue. If you are chain vaping or inadvertently pushing the fire button it can switch and confuse you to what it's supposed to read. (I've done this)
4b. I have been driving and taken a hit to only find my vape is not firing. 5 clicks of the firing button turns the mod on or off, and I have hit the button when not paying attention. With the power setting arrow keys locked, it is much safer.

5. I use watts to set my power (just a personal preference) and let the mod set the volts. It's just the same if you like to go by volts, and let the mod set the watts. Once you find the comfort "sweet spot" of your vape...LOCK the arrow buttons. This way you don't risk overpowering the coil giving you a dry hit.

Good luck in your vape journey.

 

[MaxwellPink]

I occasionally get the same problem with my aerotanks. Not so noticeable on my Disruptor (though I have watched it drop as I vape a coil clogging liquid) but more often on my iStick. It could be a number of things:

Tank not on tight enough/too tight (most common)
Coil not snuggly installed
Liquid has leaked underneath the coil
Coil is flooded (second most common)
Coil is old/bad and needs to be tossed

 

[edyle]

centerpin contact.

there is the contact point between the mod's centerpin and the tank's centerpin.

Then inside the subtanks, there is the contact point between the centerpin at the bottom of the coil head and the centerpin inside the tank

 

[wmac]

Hi @wmac . I was trying to understand what you were asking so I read it a few times.

1. The Eleaf iStick is a regulated mod. This means (in short terms) that if you set the wattage as power, it will set the voltage. If you set the voltage, the mod sets the wattage. It's a safety issue.

2. The iStick 30 watt WILL read the ohms of the coil in the tank. (example .5 ohms ot 1.2 ohms) BUT (important) it DOES NOT set the power in any manner what so ever. Only YOU can set or change the power.

3. Once you find the proper setting for the comfort of your vape (for example 20 watts) in EITHER watts or volts, (you control one, the mod controls the other) you should LOCK the arrow keys. This prevents accidental pushing of the arrow keys which would change the power going to the coil.
3a. To lock the arrow keys place a thumb (the way I found works best for me) over both arrow keys and hold them down for 3 seconds. If you hit one before the other the power will change and you'll have to reset the power back to where you like it. So hold equal pressure down on both arrow keys until the LED screen display says "Lock". Double check the power setting to make certain it is still where you like it.
3b. To "Unlock" the arrow keys so that you may change the power settings use the same method. Hold a thumb over both arrow keys for 3 seconds until the LED screen says "Unlock" and then you can change the power.

4. As far as the jumping in the readings, I have noticed as coils age (get gunked) the resistance will change. In my experience they can go from .5 to .7 ohms.
4a. Switching from wattage mode to voltage mode takes 3 clicks of the fire button on the iStick. 3 quick clicks and it changes back. Wattage/Voltage. If the coil is reading a great change (from .5 to 3.0 )then you have an issue. If you are chain vaping or inadvertently pushing the fire button it can switch and confuse you to what it's supposed to read. (I've done this)
4b. I have been driving and taken a hit to only find my vape is not firing. 5 clicks of the firing button turns the mod on or off, and I have hit the button when not paying attention. With the power setting arrow keys locked, it is much safer.

5. I use watts to set my power (just a personal preference) and let the mod set the volts. It's just the same if you like to go by volts, and let the mod set the watts. Once you find the comfort "sweet spot" of your vape...LOCK the arrow buttons. This way you don't risk overpowering the coil giving you a dry hit.

Good luck in your vape journey.

i appreciate the info, but this is all stuff i know. I am very, very familiar with variable wattage vs variable voltage. and yes my coils have changed over time. but im talking about if i take a puff itll read at 1.0 and when im done w the puff it might all of a sudden read 3.0 or 1.7 or .5, and when im in VW mode, it will output a certain amount of voltage to achieve the wattage i set it at, but when the battery is incorrectly reading the resistance of the atomizer, it will throw more voltage (or less) depending on what it reads the atomizer. so to save myself from that problem i switched to VV mode instead (aka manual). It is definitely a connection problem, just trying to see if anyone has had the same connection problem and if theres an easier solution than buying a new coil/ or maybe even a new tank/battery.

 

[IMFire3605]

Mod center 510 pin has been pushed down to far. Gently take a paper clip end or small flat screw driver, even a tooth pick, use them to gently wiggle and pry the pin back up, don't force and move the prying implement in a circle around the 510 connector of the mod. If the 510 pin is spring loaded, check and clean the connectors of the tank and mod with some rubbing alcohol on a q-tip, this will clean up any crud and gunk that could be stopping a clean connection. After that I would check the connections of the tank, if the 510 pin on the tank is recessed, try to push it out a bit very gently, check any springs in the base are not collapsed in the subtank where the coil head is seated.

 

[Sir2fyablyNutz]

i appreciate the info, but this is all stuff i know. I am very, very familiar with variable wattage vs variable voltage. and yes my coils have changed over time. but im talking about if i take a puff itll read at 1.0 and when im done w the puff it might all of a sudden read 3.0 or 1.7 or .5, and when im in VW mode, it will output a certain amount of voltage to achieve the wattage i set it at, but when the battery is incorrectly reading the resistance of the atomizer, it will throw more voltage (or less) depending on what it reads the atomizer. so to save myself from that problem i switched to VV mode instead (aka manual). It is definitely a connection problem, just trying to see if anyone has had the same connection problem and if theres an easier solution than buying a new coil/ or maybe even a new tank/battery.

The battery will NOT throw more voltage or wattage regardless of what it reads in ohms. What is probably happening is an inadvertently you are touching the arrow keys and the power changes when you are vaping or just holding it.(I've done this before) This is why I went through the lock and unlock.

If you lock in the setting (either in watts or volts) by locking the arrow keys then it won't change by accidentally touching them. They can be very sensitive to change at a touch.

The only thing the power settings by the mod is to change the volts when the watts change, or change the watts when the volts change. Only "you" can change the power setting.

If the mod is changing the power on it's own then you have an issue with the mod. I'd suggest finding a comfortable vape and the "lock" the arrow keys. (hold both down equally and at the same time for 3 seconds, it can take a few attempts). It doesn't matter if you find this "sweet spot" in watts or volts, take your pick. Once its locked and you still have power issues then you need to contact where you bought it from.

If the ohms readings are changing then clean the bottom of the tank and the 510 connection on the mod with a qtip or paper towel.

 

[wmac]

The battery will NOT throw more voltage or wattage regardless of what it reads in ohms. What is probably happening is an inadvertently you are touching the arrow keys and the power changes when you are vaping or just holding it.(I've done this before) This is why I went through the lock and unlock.

If you lock in the setting (either in watts or volts) by locking the arrow keys then it won't change by accidentally touching them. They can be very sensitive to change at a touch.

The only thing the power settings by the mod is to change the volts when the watts change, or change the watts when the volts change. Only "you" can change the power setting.

If the mod is changing the power on it's own then you have an issue with the mod. I'd suggest finding a comfortable vape and the "lock" the arrow keys. (hold both down equally and at the same time for 3 seconds, it can take a few attempts). It doesn't matter if you find this "sweet spot" in watts or volts, take your pick. Once its locked and you still have power issues then you need to contact where you bought it from.

If the ohms readings are changing then clean the bottom of the tank and the 510 connection on the mod with a qtip or paper towel.

i promise i am not accidentally changing the buttons. and i have done good research on VV/VW and i think you are confused as to what exactly it does. its based off of what wattage and voltage actually is. Voltage is specifically what is pulled from the battery. so if you are in VV mode and you set it to 3 volts, you will pull 3 volts from the battery, and based off the resistance of the coil, it will give the coil heat at a certain wattage, which is a measurement of power. its basically how hot it will get. the voltage is what pulls from the battery, while the wattage is more of how hot your vape is. so if you want the same heat in your puff no matter what tank you switch out, you switch to VW mode and it will keep it at that wattage by changing the voltage based on the reading of the resistance of the coil. that is why they made VW to begin with. so people could switch out their different tanks with different resistance atomizers and still get the same vape. VV mode is what alot of the vaping community likes to call "manual", while VW is kinda like "cruise control". voltage is the gas pedal, while wattage is the speed of your car. essentially anyways. it is an imperfect analogy but its about as close as it gets. to truly understand, you'd have to do some research on basic circuitry.

 

[Sir2fyablyNutz]

I'm sitting here chain vaping, changing tanks with different reading ohm coils on my iStick 50w. The only thing I now understand is I am now thoroughly confused. If I am wrong I apologize and I probably am. When I vape under wattage mode my voltage is adjusted by the mod. I have noticed a small difference in the voltage regulation of the mod. If I vape under voltage mode, then I am noticing a huge difference in the watts. (going from a .7 to a .4 and back,)

This is clearly over my head and I apologize.

This is the sentence that threw me

Idk if i should switch tanks (im in love with the eleaf so i probably wont switch) or if anyone had any advice or maybe a solution im not thinking of.

Good luck and I really hope you figure out whats causing the issue.

 

[wmac]

I'm sitting here chain vaping, changing tanks with different reading ohm coils on my iStick 50w. The only thing I now understand is I am now thoroughly confused. If I am wrong I apologize and I probably am. When I vape under wattage mode my voltage is adjusted by the mod. I have noticed a small difference in the voltage regulation of the mod. If I vape under voltage mode, then I am noticing a huge difference in the watts. (going from a .7 to a .4 and back,)

This is clearly over my head and I apologize.

This is the sentence that threw me



Good luck and I really hope you figure out whats causing the issue.

by that sentence i meant, im not sure if i have to switch tanks to fix my connection issue (and in parentheses i was saying i love the eleaf istick mod so im not going to replace it, just maybe the tank if i cant get it worked out.

and the VV/VW made no sense to me at first. you just have to think about it carefully. and make sure you arent getting faulty info from the internet. unfortunately that is everywhere. But its as simple as being able to switch from setting how much voltage you take from your battery, which will correlate to a particular Wattage, to setting the wattage itself. most people use VW mode, i do as well. assuming there's no miss read of the atomizer then it will set it to the same heat everytime, no matter what atomizer resistance is there. (and by heat i dont technically mean temperature, since it gets hotter the longer you hold it, no matter the wattage, but wattage is power, and more power will make it hotter, which is why i typically refer to heat when i am talking about wattage) plus VW mode, you can fine tune more, bc like you said it jumps higher. its not a 1 for 1 trade, 1 volt more equals 1 watt more. its really like .1 volt gets you like 2ish more watts. its basically two different modes. and honestly unless you dont trust your battery to put out the correct wattage (which i do, until recently haha) you really dont need VV mode and personally i dont know why people still like it. but hey to each their own.

 

[wmac]

Mod center 510 pin has been pushed down to far. Gently take a paper clip end or small flat screw driver, even a tooth pick, use them to gently wiggle and pry the pin back up, don't force and move the prying implement in a circle around the 510 connector of the mod. If the 510 pin is spring loaded, check and clean the connectors of the tank and mod with some rubbing alcohol on a q-tip, this will clean up any crud and gunk that could be stopping a clean connection. After that I would check the connections of the tank, if the 510 pin on the tank is recessed, try to push it out a bit very gently, check any springs in the base are not collapsed in the subtank where the coil head is seated.

this helped, but unfortunately didn't solve the problem. i just cant screw it down as tight as it'll go. but it definitely helped and for that i thank you!

 

[MaxwellPink]

i just cant screw it down as tight as it'll go. but it definitely helped and for that i thank you!

Perhaps this is the reason you have the problem to begin with.

These parts are meant to be put together snuggly - as in just enough resistance in either direction to keep the piece in place. If you force them together tightly you're gonna damage o-rings, strip threads, and knock center pins out of place.

But I'm just a noob. What do I know, right?

 

[NealBJr]

this helped, but unfortunately didn't solve the problem. i just cant screw it down as tight as it'll go. but it definitely helped and for that i thank you!

Ok.. I have had a few fixes for the kanger subtanks... First, it's absolutely essential that you do not crossthread the coil... I did that once, and my resistance would jump around dramatically.

Second, look at the middle pin of the subtank.. it should slightly protrude from the 510 connector. If not, take the base off, then the coil.. you should see the pin right in the middle. It is only held in by a rubber grommit, so you can gently press it down (I used a pen top or something to reach in there) until it slightly protrudes. Don't push too much, or it can fall out (in which after you find it on the floor, you simply push it back in). Then put the coil very snugly on the base then screw the base back on to your mod.. it should push the pin back up to where the mod likes it. Remember, don't put it on too tight. If you get a good reading, then put the tank back on and continue to use.

If you dont get an ohm reading, and you try several coils and it still doesn't work, it could be the 510 is simply too long for that mod. I've had to do this with one subtank, but I took the base off the tank, then took the coil off, and removed the center pin. I also removed the rubber grommet holding in the center pin. I then took it down to the grinder and ground down the 510 just a smidgen. (about 1 thread turns worth) trying hard to keep it flat. I then washed the base thoroughly with water( no metal fragments) and re-assembled everything. This allowed the 510 center pin to stick out just a tad bit more.. been working great ever since.