Contact spring sheath... copper?

[deezdrama]

A buddy melted my reos button the other day.

Ive been reading about pdibs fuse mod and brass sheath for the contact spring. Ive got brass that would work perfect but dont want to break the 510 post getting it off.

I have this copper adhesive stripping, at first i thought it wouldnt conduct well because of the adhesive back but now that i think about it... i think i bought it a while back for a electrical mod so it might be conductive and fine.

Anyone use anything like this before?

I also added about 12 layers to bottom of my backup button to hopefully protect the delrin from some heat if this happens again.

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[SLIPPY_EEL]

i'm not sure about that.... tbh I think the thing you need to do is to lower your v-drop to stop excess power/heat rather then heat shield things... not that im 100% on the shield ...

i think the fuse mod will give you more gain then doing the firing pin and its easier

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

i know its not a good idea to take said pin apart unless you have a backup or you have another mod you can use or maybe you reo isn't working at all in which case it wouldn't matter if you tried but just to let you know I've taken the same pin apart on mine probably 20 times with no problem... call me lucky if you like...

so long as you sit the reo upright with flathead in on pos pin, get your pliers on the squonk tip underneath really lightly holding so that when you turn the screwdriver its almost spinning the pin in your pliers your holding it so loose... or put something inside it so you don't squash it ...

 

[BlueSnake]

If the button's melting then the ohms are just too low. Keep it at .7 or above and you won't have a problem. Then get the sub ohm kit when it comes out in a couple of weeks.

That or do some more reading and do a complete mod including a different firing pin.

 

[deezdrama]

The coil was .8 ohms ... i never go under this, its on my spare reo that i let the ol lady use.... my buddy was messing with it and either fired it forever or tapped it a million times and it was arcing but the contact spring definately had some resistance going on to melt the button like it did.

The copper padding on the bottom of the buttons sole purpose isnt to sheild heat but to give me a little more throw since using the green flat top 18650PD's, it shielding a little heat (maybe) is just a added precautionary bonus if this ever happens again.

My goal is to reduce voltage drop, I have brass shimming to wrap the contact spring but dont want to break the 510 post... i have extras of everything except the 510 to will probablly skip this for now.

Just wondered if the copper could acheive similar results.


Doing the fuse mod right now, found some brass spade type fuse adapters and trying to make something like magic mundy rigged up.

Heres a pic of the coil i had in the melted button reo... read .8 to .9 so wasnt severely sub ohming it.

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[deezdrama]

Well.... i just stopped after adding the pad to bottom of the button for extra throw, straightened contact spring out a little, reshaped the contact point, cleaned everything up and noalaxed and did the fuse mod..... blowing clouds nicely

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[supertrunker]

It will also arc more anytime your mod gets dirty and that happens a great deal faster at lower Ohms. I use a button mod on my grand and coils at about 0.6Ω and i have to clean and file it once a week or suffer.

The heat is not from low coils - your spring will start to die at about 0.4Ω, so best hang around above this - it's from the firing pin oxidising and fast.
Unless you make a rolled firing pin, which seems to help with the issue, then whenever you see sparks - it's clean and noalox time. Put a blob of noalox on the battery too for good measure.

T

 

[deezdrama]

I seen pdibs rolled contact spring but was under the impression that he used the stock spring and added brass wrap...

But if the stock spring is rolled at the end it will be too short, or did he fab up his own spring and i missed it?

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[patrao_n]

Well the spring was replaced by a fuse as you have done. I think you are referring to the firing pin. That he made his own out of brass feeler gage. He replaced the stock firing pin with it.

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[deezdrama]

Yeah... "firing pin" ... lol when i first got a reo i called it that but was corrected and told it wasnt considered a pin that it was a spring... i think rob calls it a spring as well.

Oh well...

I remember reading pdib saying he wrapped his "firing pin" with brass and said the original was made of stainless for its springlike properties and that a solid brass one wouldnt keep this property and wear out quickly.... unless he has changed it out since then and i missed it?

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[patrao_n]

Not sure maybe I read it wrong. Sorry for the confusion. Lol. :beer:

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[deezdrama]

I just looked again and found a thread where he made one out of a brass feeler gauge, also theres a thread about how rob tested stainless,brass,copper and found stainless to work best.

Not sure what the conscencus is... anyone rocking a brass firing spring and have used it for some time and can comment?


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[supertrunker]

the brass is good and Rob's rebuild kit will use beryllium copper, which is better.

i have not seen many votes for stainless steel.

T

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I've been rocking the fuse and firing pin made from .012 brass feeler gauge with no issues for about 1.5 months. Plan to swap it out when the kits are available.

 

[deezdrama]

Sounds good, any idea of exactly what all components robs kits will consist of?
Price, and when they will be available?

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[Raynman]

New bottom spring I think I heard it's gold plated, beryllium copper firing pin, new firing button made of something better than delrin.

 

[supertrunker]

i doubt the firing button.

T

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

from wht I can make out he said that it would be all silver plated stuff and instead of the point on the firing pin that it would have more of a contact surface.. wider point, flatter end, gawd knows..






im happy with the way mine is firing as is with the mods ive done.. 0.12-0.24 vdrop dependant on coil Ω isn't bad... although i'll probably have to end up buying a kit at some stage to replace some parts that are wearing anyway, just a shame I live so far away.. always on a panic wondering if its ever going to arrive