just want to ask the pro's about this thing. does this thing really fix the voltage drop of the mechanical mods?
Copper Foil Tape
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When you post in Ask the Vet. Need to post more info as you can't answer any questions we might have like the one above. Pics help. Info like which box mod and where you plan on using it.
Simple answer would be NO. The voltage drop in a mech mod is created by the contact points. The + and - battery contacts, the switch contacts, the 510 connector pin contact and the 510 connector threads contact, all contribute to the voltage drop. Adding Copper Foil Tape to a contact only creates an additional contact point, one for each side of the tape.
Notice the conductive metal the mod is made of is not mentioned, with as big a slug of metal as a mod is made of, this is not a factor. Different metals have different resistance and will make a difference in a small gauge wire, 30ga aluminum will not be as efficient as 30ga copper. But even this small of a wire would require a long piece to see the effect. Your mod may be the equivalent of a 0 gauge or 00 gauge wire, the metal may make a difference when you're talking about 1,000 of feet of wire.
Now if you're considering a plastic mech mod, then the Copper Foil Tape would be necessary to connect the battery. Otherwise in any ordinary mech mod it would only be adding another point of failure.
Notice the conductive metal the mod is made of is not mentioned, with as big a slug of metal as a mod is made of, this is not a factor. Different metals have different resistance and will make a difference in a small gauge wire, 30ga aluminum will not be as efficient as 30ga copper. But even this small of a wire would require a long piece to see the effect. Your mod may be the equivalent of a 0 gauge or 00 gauge wire, the metal may make a difference when you're talking about 1,000 of feet of wire.
Now if you're considering a plastic mech mod, then the Copper Foil Tape would be necessary to connect the battery. Otherwise in any ordinary mech mod it would only be adding another point of failure.
Adding copper foil to the main body threads in an aluminum-body APV would be an advantage, as ali suffers from electrolytic corrosion that builds up and creates resistance. It's wound on like PTFE tape on a plumbing or gas joint thread. You could also use gold foil...
On an SS body APV there wouldn't be much gain unless a fault condition exists, for example they made the battery tube body out of 400 series cheap SS instead of the 300 series that should have been used; or the thread machining is so bad that there are just a few contact points and oxidation builds up on those points due to arcing.
You can sometimes tell that rubbish stainless has been used as the threads start to discolour with oxidation, and sometimes it can even be magnetic (the right SS is non-magnetic). With good 300 series SS (304 is good enough for this duty, it doesn't have to be 316 or 317; and 312 would be way over the top) you can see from the machining if the thread cutting is good, if you know what to look for. The feel of the threads is also a very good guide: good threads feel smooth, buttery and firm, even when any oil is cleaned off; poor threading feels gritty, sharp, loose, grating, nasty, or with some play in it; or tight and coarse.
A lot of amps go through the battery tube threads in a sub-ohm mechmod, as the body is the negative line and the tube threads bridge it - so in the worst cases copper foil could fix bad build quality. I don't know if this approach is any better than an electrical contact grease like Noalox though, which would be cheaper and easier to maintain.
On an SS body APV there wouldn't be much gain unless a fault condition exists, for example they made the battery tube body out of 400 series cheap SS instead of the 300 series that should have been used; or the thread machining is so bad that there are just a few contact points and oxidation builds up on those points due to arcing.
You can sometimes tell that rubbish stainless has been used as the threads start to discolour with oxidation, and sometimes it can even be magnetic (the right SS is non-magnetic). With good 300 series SS (304 is good enough for this duty, it doesn't have to be 316 or 317; and 312 would be way over the top) you can see from the machining if the thread cutting is good, if you know what to look for. The feel of the threads is also a very good guide: good threads feel smooth, buttery and firm, even when any oil is cleaned off; poor threading feels gritty, sharp, loose, grating, nasty, or with some play in it; or tight and coarse.
A lot of amps go through the battery tube threads in a sub-ohm mechmod, as the body is the negative line and the tube threads bridge it - so in the worst cases copper foil could fix bad build quality. I don't know if this approach is any better than an electrical contact grease like Noalox though, which would be cheaper and easier to maintain.
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