Copper mod question

Status
Not open for further replies.

LunchusBoxious

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 8, 2013
191
67
Ontario Canada
Well Im attempting my first mod... only thing is I have no idea how to wire the thing....I have tried searching for a diagram to no avail, is there one? any help is appreciated, thanks.
So far I have the positive battery post connected to the switch, the switch to an led with resistor, then the led to the 510 connection, where do i go from there?
 

Teach

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 3, 2010
1,369
1,806
Florida
Take a look at the sticky's above - tutorials links may help - also try browsing through the battery mods section.

MadVapes Mods has good tutorials on building their mod kits - wiring is the same, just a different shape for your tube.

Just be sure to test your wiring before installing it all and finding out you went backwards somewhere. Good luck and have fun!
 

northhar

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 18, 2011
672
776
CanTheBan
Put up a picture of what you are trying to do..
Usually the switch is just the positive.. and the copper body is the negative..

That is to say positive wire from the center attie connector to 1 pole of the switch, then another positive wire from the battery positive to the other pole on the switch. So when you press the switch it connects the battery positive to the attie connector positive. The negative is always connected by the copper body..

I could not find an diagram, but if I come accross one I will post it here..
 

LunchusBoxious

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 8, 2013
191
67
Ontario Canada
Thanks... I just went back at it...but I broke the switch....so ya...guess Im starting over and making a mechanical switch instead lol...thats what i get for only ordering 1.... I do have some buttons that have 4 leads on them but im not sure how they work so Ill probably just toss this one and start over....and I was sooooo close... but thank you so very much for letting me know that the negative goes to the body cause thats where I was stuck...
 

Teach

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 3, 2010
1,369
1,806
Florida
Here's a basic circuit - think of it as a flow of water - attach neg to one side positive to the other. It doesn't make a difference which way unless you add something such as an LED which requires a particular connection. Remember to use a normally open switch so the circuit fires only when you press the button.

The basic starting point is battery to switch, switch to coil, coil to battery (other end of course.)


basic circuit.JPG
 

LucentShadow

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 28, 2011
936
2,436
Michigan, USA
Well Im attempting my first mod... only thing is I have no idea how to wire the thing....I have tried searching for a diagram to no avail, is there one? any help is appreciated, thanks.
So far I have the positive battery post connected to the switch, the switch to an led with resistor, then the led to the 510 connection, where do i go from there?

You can't put the LED and resistor in series with the circuit, as you'd get little-to-no current to the atomizer. They need to be in parallel with the 510 connection.

Here is a good schematic, on a site with a lot of good info on e-cig mod topics:

Wiring e-Cig Box Mods - The PUCK eCig Mod

That site focuses on The Puck, which uses parts that can be bought at many stores, but still has much good info that can be applied to other mods.

The wiring for a basic mod is pretty simple. An on/off slide switch is often used to help prevent continuous, accidental 'firing' in one's pocket or bag. A normally-open momentary switch is usually used to activate the mod. both of these should be in series after the battery positive.

The pushbutton is then connected to the 510 connection center post. The outer shell of the 510 connection is then connected back to the battery negative terminal. Sometimes, this is already connected through the mod casing, as in metal mods where there is no electrical insulation between the 510 connection and the case, or the case and the negative terminal.

If you want to use an LED, connect the resistor and LED in series with each other, but in parallel to the rest of the circuit. So, you can connect the resistor to the 510 connection side of the pushbutton, then to the LED (observing proper polarity,) and the LED back to the negative battery terminal or the outside of the 510 connector.
 

Teach

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 3, 2010
1,369
1,806
Florida
Thanks.for all of.the info!! you guys are a big help... I have had to order a few more 3A buttons as my mechanical button didnt work out so well....my spring heated up fast...

While you're waiting use a meter to double check for shorts... that extra heat could be an indicator that all is not correct. Sounds like you're making great progress!
 

LucentShadow

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 28, 2011
936
2,436
Michigan, USA
sorry can't get the uploader working....grrr...can nothing go right... + post to switch switch to + led and 510, - LED to 510.... close?

That's not descriptive enough for me to follow. It's important to wire such a thing exactly.

Have a look at the diagram in the link below:

Build Your Own Mod Any Way You Like. - The PUCK e-Cig Mod

That's the same circuit as the schematic that I posted earlier, but missing the on/off switch, and using a 4xAA battery box instead of a single li-ion battery. Just substitute the battery box for whatever battery terminals that you're using. Red is positive in that diagram.

Do be careful to make sure that there are no short-circuits, as mentioned earlier. A multimeter can be used in resistance testing mode to check for that, but you really have to understand electronics at a basic level to be able to do so. Using heat-shrink tubing on connections that can move and touch the case, or another component, is one way to avoid them. Non-conductive fasteners (or glue) can also help secure connections. Only the things that are directly connected in the diagram should be directly connected.

It would also be wise to make sure that the pipe can vent sudden, large amounts of gasses, so that it will not explode into pieces if you do cause the battery to catastrophically fail by a short-circuit or over-draining the battery.
 

Teach

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 3, 2010
1,369
1,806
Florida
Do you have a multimeter? If you're messing with batteries, which can explode, you'll probably need one. Mainly you're looking to isolate any bad connections, misconnections, or bad parts. You don't need an expensive one - but if you've never used one, look for an inexpensive autoranging digital... less buttons makes it easier. I found an Extech on sale at Lowes for about $30. But all the hardware stores carry them so Ace, Home Depot, and don't forget Harbor Freight if they're close. Harbor Freight has a cheap manual analog for like $5... course, it's sometimes free with a coupon too. Even Walmart type stores have some too.

The heading of your spring does seem to indicate a problem so you do need to check what's causing it. I'd recommend searching on the internet for how to use a multimeter will give you a better idea of what to look for and what might be in your comfort range. (don't by a $500 Fluke to start on!)
 

LunchusBoxious

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 8, 2013
191
67
Ontario Canada
Thanks for the info... It was actually the spring that was causing it to heat up... I stole the spring from my silver bullet and it fired right up....but the led didnt go on....but it fired and I vaped so Im happy.... Ive already got it in pieces again so I can change some things and practice my soldering since I need to for other projects anyways....I think I may try with just an on off switch I have laying around...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread