Copper Mod

[bluegrasslover]

Here are some copper mods I've been working on. There are no wires and the smallest screw used was a #6 (for the pin). All screws are brass. It should have very little voltage drop. My meter shows no drop but I know that's because my meter sucks.

I've changed the bottom button a little since those pics were taken. Rounded it over a bit.

This is what really makes it different. I haven't seen one designed like this before. Not sure if that is a good or bad thing.
The 510 battery connector center post is the switch. When the button on the bottom is pressed, it moves all of the insides up to push the center pin into contact with the center post of the atty. Please give me your opinions on this switch design.


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Benefits...all tanks/etc screw all the way down, no insulators to wear out/break and never any adjusting of a "floating" pin. The "stroke" is somewhat adjustable. There are no springs in the circuit. It's very dependable.


Except for the thread tap, everything was purchased at hardware stores.

 

[asdaq]

Pretty Patina there! By no spring in the circuit, then it has no spring or is there a return spring for the button? If I follow correctly there are two contact points that move, the 510 pin (or where the battery contacts it's bottom) and the button touching the side of the bottom cap for the negative. If this is true, then from what I've seen, the moving contacts are the ones that get dirty (have arcing) so here there are two instead of one to keep clean.

 

[bluegrasslover]

Pretty Patina there! By no spring in the circuit, then it has no spring or is there a return spring for the button? If I follow correctly there are two contact points that move, the 510 pin (or where the battery contacts it's bottom) and the button touching the side of the bottom cap for the negative. If this is true, then from what I've seen, the moving contacts are the ones that get dirty (have arcing) so here there are two instead of one to keep clean.

There is a return button below the pin. I've been using them for a couple months now without issue but I'll keep am eye on that. Thanks.

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[dookieboy81]

absolutely beautiful

 

[fsors]

Pretty Patina there! By no spring in the circuit, then it has no spring or is there a return spring for the button? If I follow correctly there are two contact points that move, the 510 pin (or where the battery contacts it's bottom) and the button touching the side of the bottom cap for the negative. If this is true, then from what I've seen, the moving contacts are the ones that get dirty (have arcing) so here there are two instead of one to keep clean.

asdaq how have you been? hope this finds you well! What are Sci and the other Boys from the gate up to these days?

very interesting copper mod

 

[asdaq]

Sci had been too busy I guess, I do miss the site. Where you been hanging out at?

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[fsors]

Sci had been too busy I guess, I do miss the site. Where you been hanging out at?

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Yes too bad the busy. I have been hangin at vat with Berg and Rocket and the gang. Have you seen NT lately? Someone was asking about wood mods and of coarse I had to post a few pics of your bamboo mod would have posted a few more of your beautys but I could not find any more pics. (hope you don't mind me braggin up your mods)? Is Mr. Slimest still around?

 

[asdaq]

Right on. Nico popped by early this year and slimest visits occasionally. Sure you can post, I don't mind. The bamboo ones are pretty old-fashioned now, still with the 510 connectors. I should get them out and see how they are doing.

 

[fsors]

Cool............I need to get back to some wood I did make these way back when

but I still have lots more to work with since our trip together asdaq notice the bamboo in the middle was a fail for me too much run out on the stuff I got but I did manage to rough cut a couple bamboos that I will work with



Hope those guys are well I do miss them too

 

[Adampcb]

The BOD Mecha mod uses that pin system where the firing pin moves

 

[Visus]

The BOD Mecha mod uses that pin system where the firing pin moves

The Omega mech also uses that type firing with the positive pole making contact.
People say its a hard hitter too..

 

[flagreekguy]

Nice, whenever I hear "Copper" I think of the original Hex lol.

 

[bluegrasslover]

The BOD Mecha mod uses that pin system where the firing pin moves

Thanks for that. I knew it had to have been done before. It works REALLY well. Hits like a champ.

 

[eag5150]

Them are some nice mods with some good patina

 

[Outlaw1187]

Nice work. Have actually been wanting to build something with the same style and look myself. Would you mind taking pictures of the internals. Either way they look great.

 

[bluegrasslover]

Nice work. Have actually been wanting to build something with the same style and look myself. Would you mind taking pictures of the internals. Either way they look great.

Those are 1/4" bronze bushings on the end caps. The spring part in the middle is the hardest part to get right (meaning this is a pretty simple mod). It is comprised of a 3/4" #6 brass screw, a AA battery spring, and the white part is actually 2 different pieces. A 1/4" spacer (hole fits #6 screw) and a flat washer. The flat washer ID is bigger than the #6 screw but it has a small shoulder that clicks into the bushing, holding everything together. On the connector side of the spacer, I drilled a counter sink to allow the pin to go below the top of the spacer. On the right is the button. Just a 1/4" screw. Changing how far the nut is screwed down adjusts the buttons "stroke" distance. All of the parts with the exception of the battery spring came from Ace Hardware.

Here is the spring part inserted into the bushing. I don't think you can see it but on the inside of each end cap is a 5/16" washer. It fits tight on the inside of the cap and the bushing. It's just there for added stability. You have to get galvanized washers. They are a touch bigger than a normal steel washer and fit nice and tight.

All together...

The locking nut thing I have no idea what it's called but I did have to cut the length down. Like most of the other parts, you can find them in the specialty fastener drawers at Ace Hardware.

I made a few more. These were all heat treated in different ways and intensities.

 

[Outlaw1187]

Thank you sir. Definitely will be making my way to the hardware store this weekend.

 

[asdaq]

Blue, have you got a photo of your locking ring piece with a flatter view? Also, is it 6#32 threading or 1/4?

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[bluegrasslover]

Blue, have you got a photo of your locking ring piece with a flatter view? Also, is it 6#32 threading or 1/4?

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from left to right... .75" #6-32 screw (head flattened and diameter reduced), .25" tall nylon spacer (you can't see in the picture but I countersunk drilled the nylon spacer to that the head of the screw goes down into the spacer. Not completely necessary but you may have to shorten it a little to get the spacing right) , nylon flat washer (note it has a shoulder that snaps into the connector bushing), AA spring, washer, nut.

The left 3 parts are the button. .25" ID Bronze bushing .25"-20 screw and nut (screw head ground down), the locking nut thingie is called a brad t-nut (Shop The Hillman Group 1/4-in-20 Stainless Steel Standard (SAE) Brad Hole Tee Nut at Lowes.com). I had to cut the length down a bit.

Bottom view of the button. I knurled the brad t-nut for some grip.

side view of locked button

The really cool thing about the way this locks is you can flick it with one finger to lock or unlock.

 

[bluegrasslover]