I dunno. Fixed mine, and I haven't read of another case reported yet.
What exactly needed to be Drilled?
I dunno. Fixed mine, and I haven't read of another case reported yet.
What exactly needed to be Drilled?
The clearance hole for the positive post screw in the underside of the deck. It was a little out of alignment. All you have to do it open it up a bit. Drill, Dremel, whatever.
Gotcha. Thanks.
If I hear about the Possibility of a Hard Short on something I'm going to use on a Regulated mod, it is Definitely something I take note of.
But if I hear of something where a Hard Short could occur when used on a Mech, that gets my Bat RADAR Blinking on High.
I hear ya. It never showed up as a hard short, just a little firing weirdness and burnt taste. I thought I'd left a shaving behind from the BF conversion, took it apart, and only then saw the carbon from the arching.
Gotta repeat though: Great little BF RDTA!
The Design is Interesting.
Flavor wise, how would you compare it to a NarDa or a Hadaly?
Same ball park, but with a smaller chamber volume than those so you can equivalent flavor with a smaller build. The 24g Kanthal seemed a bit too aggressive at first, whereas it wouldn't in Narda and Hadaly.
To me, Hussar RDTA vapes more like a 16mm atty (lOdis-16, for example) though smoother and more consistent, as you expect comparing an RDTA to an equivalent RDA.
Just an FYI...
My 1st Coppervape Kit didn't come with an O-Ring for the Bottle. And since the Bottle didn't leak, I never thought about it one way or another.
It wasn't until I got a V2 Mod as a Backup (to a Backup) that I noticed that it included a Bottle O-Ring.
But since I wasn't getting any leaking, I never put the O-Ring in my V1.
Where deos the o-ring sit? Thanks
Do you have to modify/replace parts with this mod when you receive it? I had one awhile back and had trouble with it firing consistently. I made an offer for another one as I'm back into sqounking and don't have a mech sqounker yet.
It can be Hard to see because it is Clear and so is the Bottle.
Thanks for the response. I have a aluminum one on the way. I wanted to ask the experts so I am able to get the best experience possible from it.Several folks have found the need to fiddle with the firing pin (the screw) to ensure good contact. One person had a misplaced magnet I think interfering with good conductivity.
Me personally, I have 3 of them (black, brass, and alum) and they all have been working perfectly with REALLY minimal maintenance...
Do you have to modify/replace parts with this mod when you receive it? I had one awhile back and had trouble with it firing consistently. I made an offer for another one as I'm back into sqounking and don't have a mech sqounker yet.
Any thoughts on a replacement for the o-ring?
I'm not enthralled with the stock part.
One of mine has already broke.
I want to find something more durable.
I've told a few people about the o ring & I have suggested they use any driptip o ring that will fit & they have used it successfully on the Boxer clone bottles.The first 2 CV's I got were very early v1's. And they Didn't even come with a Bottle O-Ring. And I haven't had any Leaking/Seeping what so ever with them.
I'll dig out a Caliper when I get a chance and take some Dims off the Bottle O-Ring if no one posts them.
Is your Bottle Leaking right now when used without the O-Ring?
Is your Bottle Leaking right now when used without the O-Ring?
I've told a few people about the o ring & I have suggested they use any driptip o ring that will fit & they have used it successfully on the Boxer clone bottles.
Haven't tried w/o o-ring. Just been swapping the good bottle between mods