Hey No Problem herb.
The NarDa is, IMO, a Great rda. And is the Undisputed Winner in the Single Coil - Flavor Chaser class in my book.
Glad you are Enjoying it.
Coppervape BF Mod
- Thread starter Layzee Vaper
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Hey No Problem herb.
The NarDa is, IMO, a Great rda. And is the Undisputed Winner in the Single Coil - Flavor Chaser class in my book.
Glad you are Enjoying it.
I love how high the air holes are , i don't find it difficult to build on and the flavor and deep well make it ideal imo. Definitely going to pick another one up .
I decided on a 24 gauge kanthal coil wrapped around a 2 1/2 mill screwdriver shaft . Comes out to 0.5 every time , works well .
Thanks again
I originally used this method on a brass Hades mod which I had ages ago and it improved the output on the mod considerably, hence I had the tape left over from that so used it on the coppervape and have noticed that it does hit harder.
The negative from your battery goes through the steel battery cap, then the aluminium or brass body depending on the version of your mod, then is transferred to the top piece of the mod which is touching the main body via the magnets which then goes through the negative threads of the steel 510 connection and finally to your RDA, so negative power has to run through 4 different points before reaching the RDA, causing voltage drop along the way.
Copper is a much better electrical conductor than brass hence the considerable difference in the output of the brass hades mod also copper is slightly better than aluminium so there is a noticeable difference in the output, the copper tape improves the negative current from the battery cap to the top piece of the mod as it travels through the copper tape as well.
If you google "Electrical conductivity of metals" you will get a much better explanation than I can give.
Also putting copper tape just on the nub of the battery cap will not help as you are just adding another point for the current to flow so it has to go throught the tape then the battery cap however if you put tape on the battery cap nub and threads and it makes contact with the copper tape that is on the threads and body of the mod then this would surely be an improvement as you have better conductivity starting from the battery, I will also give this a try thank you for the idea, now only if coppervape could make an actual copper version that would be awesome.
Good info thank you very much , if it helps with voltage drop i'm all for it and will definitely be giving it a go .
I was reading info about the Custom Classic from the man responsible for it and he said although he has made them out of all copper it is a major pita due to the materials inherent softness and it's a real pain to machine, Just a FWIW.
Thanks again
The angle in the first shot is deceiving. It just running down the battery hole, not across the top of the battery.
I modded a SS Panzer clone with copper tape and reduced the voltage drop significantly. The downside was that the tape would get torn up in the threads. Also the tape is a PITA to remove.
The problem with the tape is, what good does it do you if it doesn't complete the entire circuit? You still need to tape the top cap where the negative completes the circuit at the 510, otherwise you just have a broken circuit. You can't just stop mid way through!! As well as sonic pointed out, when you thread the battery cap on it will cut the tape and break the circuit also... I'd give a "A" for effort and creative thought though...
That's why it wraps over the top of the tube to the flat where the top sits.
Copper is soft and will probably stretch into the thread form.
Last edited:
You're missing the point. The electrical path is already complete with the body of the mod. What the tape is doing is creating an additional lower resistance path for a section of that circuit. Agreed it would be best to go all the way, but some is better than none.
I've found that with mechanicals, electrical efficiency is inherent in the design or it isn't. It generally cannot be simply or cheaply added through modification.
Last edited:
Maybe you missed the post from sonic that explained the threads tore the tape up. It was the post just before my last one. This would break the path basically not doing what it was intended to do.
Not sure what the point was that I missed!! The threads tore the tape, yes? That's what you posted prior. This would then interrupt the circuit, yes? Unless you have an uninterrupted connection from point A to point B it would then be pointless as the connection is broken and therefor really makes no difference... A good connection is a good connection and a broken connection is just...well, its broken...
1. The tape will often get torn by the threads.
2. If the path of the copper tape is interrupted, the circuit will still complete but will not be as efficient as a complete path.
I don't think I can explain it any more simply without using finger paints.
2. If the path of the copper tape is interrupted, the circuit will still complete but will not be as efficient as a complete path.
I don't think I can explain it any more simply without using finger paints.
The threads above where the disc screws in will still have copper on them and the top thread of the disc will contact copper.
It works. Not perfect and not long term, but it will yield an improvement for a while. Then you replace the tape.
What would be better is to drill out the top so the battery can be inserted from the top. Then have the tape go across the steel disc so the battery rests on it.
(yes, probably need an insulator on top of the battery to prevent accidental firing and battery rattle. Mods like the CC have solved that issue)
You might have to just do that because an interrupted circuit is still a broken circuit and just that...broken... If the copper circuit is broken in this case it will revert back to the aluminum or brass circuit, depending on which device you have, but won't work with the copper circuit.1. The tape will often get torn by the threads.
2. If the path of the copper tape is interrupted, the circuit will still complete but will not be as efficient as a complete path.
I don't think I can explain it any more simply without using finger paints.
As an example...
Go out to your car, truck, or whatever vehicle you happen to be driving and cut the + battery cable in half and separate the 2 ends. Now turn the ignition key and see if your vehicle will start. It won't... Broken circuit...
Go to your nearest light switch or wall plug and cut either the + wire and separate the 2 ends and then flip the switch and see if it still works... It won't... Broken circuit...
But it's not a broken circuit, the disc still contacts the aluminum body. The copper contacts the aluminum. So current will flow in a parallel circuit through both the coper and the body.
Yes, the will be a spot that doesn't have the extra, lower resistance path. So it won't be as good as if you had complete parallel path. But you still have a most of it.
That is a bad analogy - your car battery only has one path to the starter motor and that is your positive battery cable. For this "mod" you are applying copper tape over parts of an already complete circuit. A break in the tape does not break the already existing circuit - you are only breaking your new "copper shortcut". A better analogy would be to take the sheathing off your positive battery cable and then wrap it in copper tape and then try to start your car. Will you get more amps to the starter or will it not start because of your addition of the copper overlay or will everything remain the same?
Last edited:
Does the adhesive on the copper foil conduct electricity?
If it does, the circuit is not broken.
If it insulates, the circuit would be broken.
If it does, the circuit is not broken.
If it insulates, the circuit would be broken.
That's what I don't get about putting Adhesive backed Copper Tape on the CopperVape? Seems like any Benefit from the Copper would be Defeated by the Adhesive.
That, and I haven't seen any Before n' After Numbers for Voltage Drop.
- Status
Similar threads
