Costs
- Thread starter obsidian5889
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Touchy subject, but I'll try.
The better clones tend to perform just as well as the originals in terms of functionality.
There is no answer beyond that that will suffice to settle the debate between pro clone vs anti clone folks.
Maurice
The better clones tend to perform just as well as the originals in terms of functionality.
There is no answer beyond that that will suffice to settle the debate between pro clone vs anti clone folks.
Maurice
it all depends on the user. i am very happy and satisfied with all of my inexpensive clones, while other are very happy and satisfied with their expensive authentics!
It's one of the questions that can't be answered without somebody starting a fight. Kind of like Steelers or 49ers, potato or potatoe, Beiber or ... well ok forget that one. Some swear by them while some hate them. It really comes down to what makes you happy and at the end of the day keeps you off the stinkies.
There are people who complain about the quality of the clones.
There are about as many people who complain about the quality of the originals.
Many would disagree, but I buy almost everything from fasttech.
There are about as many people who complain about the quality of the originals.
Many would disagree, but I buy almost everything from fasttech.
I own both clones and authentic's. If I can get an authentic, I'll go for it, as long as it meets my budget. But sometimes, authentic's are not easy to find, even if budget wise, it's feasible. In those instances, I'll go for a clone. Good clone companies really mimic the authentic's well, with maybe the slightest of differences.
I get authentic's where I can because I want to give homage to the creator of a device or atty. Also, I enjoy having an authentic. There is also the point that an authentic's resale value usually has you breaking about even, if you should ever choose to sell or trade it.
There is also a peace of mind aspect to an authentic. Some authentic's come from companies that really stand behind their products. If and when you break their product, they'll have the means to repair it. You'll hear plenty of Provari and Reo fans here talk about the service level they get. A clone of those products won't have that support. When the clone dies, you just go get a new one. So in those instances, a clone just doesn't make sense.
I get authentic's where I can because I want to give homage to the creator of a device or atty. Also, I enjoy having an authentic. There is also the point that an authentic's resale value usually has you breaking about even, if you should ever choose to sell or trade it.
There is also a peace of mind aspect to an authentic. Some authentic's come from companies that really stand behind their products. If and when you break their product, they'll have the means to repair it. You'll hear plenty of Provari and Reo fans here talk about the service level they get. A clone of those products won't have that support. When the clone dies, you just go get a new one. So in those instances, a clone just doesn't make sense.
Whether it is clone or original "Your Results May Vary". Between my wife and I we own (in order of appearance):
Provari Mini
134 Mini
VTR
Evic
Sigelei ZMax
Private V2
Vamos
Protanks
Puritanks
Anyvape
Iclear30/30S/30B/X.1
T3
T3S
All of the above bear manufacturer markings except the Vamos and Zmax (no marking at all). But are they clones or original? Who knows they all come China (except the provari, if it's not a clone) and markings can be cloned as well. So all that said unless you are buying directly from the manufacturer, how would you know if you have a clone.
Provari Mini
134 Mini
VTR
Evic
Sigelei ZMax
Private V2
Vamos
Protanks
Puritanks
Anyvape
Iclear30/30S/30B/X.1
T3
T3S
All of the above bear manufacturer markings except the Vamos and Zmax (no marking at all). But are they clones or original? Who knows they all come China (except the provari, if it's not a clone) and markings can be cloned as well. So all that said unless you are buying directly from the manufacturer, how would you know if you have a clone.
The real mods are quite often made in a small shop while the clones come from bigger places which gives them lower overhead.
Sometimes the materials are not as nice in a clone (I think there was a supposedly copper mod that was just copper plated).
I have never seen high quality machining in a clone. The threads work on a clone but they feel like butter on a real mod. Noalox helps bad threads feel better and cost under 10 cents.
The original was designed and the clone was copied.
The maker of the original has a reputation to protect, how many people would buy an original if the quality started to slip? Some clone makers are building a reputation, not up to the original, and they now have something to protect. Some clones are made by who knows and if the maker gets a reputation for crap then they will just change their name.
The clones are produced in much larger quantities and are easy to get. I want a real stingray and can not find one.
There is the whole moral/legal thing. You can find lots of threads on that.
It can cost a lot to get the last little bit. Cutting OK threads might cost 2 but real nice ones might be 10, one type of brass might be 2 and another 10. A clone maker striving to cut costs will cut the 2 threads on the 2 brass but the original will cut the 10 threads on the 10 brass to keep their reputation.
In some ways it's like a Ford and a Rols. Both are cars but the Rols is made with 10 selected steer hides while the Ford uses vinyl.
Sometimes the materials are not as nice in a clone (I think there was a supposedly copper mod that was just copper plated).
I have never seen high quality machining in a clone. The threads work on a clone but they feel like butter on a real mod. Noalox helps bad threads feel better and cost under 10 cents.
The original was designed and the clone was copied.
The maker of the original has a reputation to protect, how many people would buy an original if the quality started to slip? Some clone makers are building a reputation, not up to the original, and they now have something to protect. Some clones are made by who knows and if the maker gets a reputation for crap then they will just change their name.
The clones are produced in much larger quantities and are easy to get. I want a real stingray and can not find one.
There is the whole moral/legal thing. You can find lots of threads on that.
It can cost a lot to get the last little bit. Cutting OK threads might cost 2 but real nice ones might be 10, one type of brass might be 2 and another 10. A clone maker striving to cut costs will cut the 2 threads on the 2 brass but the original will cut the 10 threads on the 10 brass to keep their reputation.
In some ways it's like a Ford and a Rols. Both are cars but the Rols is made with 10 selected steer hides while the Ford uses vinyl.
most all are perfectly acceptable. the sky is still the limit you can spend when it comes to vaping. i received two ehpro kayfun lite plus clones today to add to my collection. i have one of their original versions and they improved on that this time. they were under $40 ea. compared to over $80 for one original kayfun. incidently, kayfuns are originally clones of the russian 91% and i promise your juice doesn't care what you paid for the device. you don't want to buy clone batteries by any means. to me that means steer clear of ebay and amazon for batts. juice that sells for less than $.50/ml would be a good example of get what you pay for. reputable vendors that carry clones have checked the devices out before ordering quantities for sale. they try to carry high end for those with high means and quality alternatives for jon the plumber. that would be me, lol. i have two dna 30 mod clones ordered for under $80 ea. and anxiously await their arrival. it has the same $50 board as the $275 mods. the price just came down to my level and i did not hesitate to place an order. they required a pre-order to even get one. i would have dropped 3 bills for an american dna30 but they are never available. real devices are just as prone to accidents as clones. for that reason, i consider clone prices as disposably replaceable. still, my juice doesn't care. check out tasteyourjuice.com for tons of great info, videos, reviews, trusted vendors, etc. all in one easy to navigate site. bring your questions to the forum. there is a world of folks here eager to help. the forum has helped me in many ways, but mostly about making my own juice diy. it was the logical next step to info i could not find elsewhere and receive international feedback. welcome to the forum and happy vaping!
The reality is that it just depends on the product and your willingness to fix things. I have a sizable collection of both, and have only had a few originals (mostly Youde/UD) that I think are priced reasonably or clones that were a complete trainwreck.
Most original mods are greatly overpriced, even at the cost of doing small runs. As more people start to see vaping as the new gold rush, we see people effectively cloning successful mods or selling re-branded clones as originals (the Oni). Mechanical mods are simple flashlight circuits. A lot of design work goes into the switch and sometimes the top cap, but it is still basically a metal tube that some value at $150 to $250. Most RDA's are also simple devices sold at ridiculous prices ($50 - $150).
Actual clones, mostly mass produced in China, tend to have very low quality control standards. Chances are they will use cheaper or cheaper to machine materials (303 stainless steel instead of 304 stainless steel) to bring costs down. Often times the machining itself is questionable. I've fixed several clones that came with dead shorts or bad screws. Generally it is both cheap and easy to fix a bad clone.
There is a vast range in the quality of clones though, and in some cases the clone manufacturers have improved on the original. Plus, they can usually be had for as low as 10% the cost of the original.
Many will recommend that you try the clone, and if you like it buy the original. I've done that myself in a few cases. As others mentioned sometimes the original is not an option at any price, given it's scarcity and the nature of the Boutique business model. Sometimes you are paying several hundred dollars for the exclusivity not the functionality.
Most original mods are greatly overpriced, even at the cost of doing small runs. As more people start to see vaping as the new gold rush, we see people effectively cloning successful mods or selling re-branded clones as originals (the Oni). Mechanical mods are simple flashlight circuits. A lot of design work goes into the switch and sometimes the top cap, but it is still basically a metal tube that some value at $150 to $250. Most RDA's are also simple devices sold at ridiculous prices ($50 - $150).
Actual clones, mostly mass produced in China, tend to have very low quality control standards. Chances are they will use cheaper or cheaper to machine materials (303 stainless steel instead of 304 stainless steel) to bring costs down. Often times the machining itself is questionable. I've fixed several clones that came with dead shorts or bad screws. Generally it is both cheap and easy to fix a bad clone.
There is a vast range in the quality of clones though, and in some cases the clone manufacturers have improved on the original. Plus, they can usually be had for as low as 10% the cost of the original.
Many will recommend that you try the clone, and if you like it buy the original. I've done that myself in a few cases. As others mentioned sometimes the original is not an option at any price, given it's scarcity and the nature of the Boutique business model. Sometimes you are paying several hundred dollars for the exclusivity not the functionality.
The industry is booming.
Lots of opportunity for making money.
Manufacturers are cashing in.
Its easier to find expensive junk than to find good quality items that are very low cost.
A low cost quality setup would be a simple stainless steel dripping atomizer (RDA) , maybe even with hybrid option on a simple tube.
Something like this maybe:
No 510 connector to worry about;
- Status
Similar threads
