couple beginner questions for first mod.

[jwjordan322]

Hopefully today or tomorrow I'll be purchasing my first mod from a local vape shop.

I currently am using a MVP 2 with a nautilus mini tank.

I want to upgrade for a couple reasons.
The vapor I get from my MVP is alright but I tend to hit the 10 second cut off allllot and just would enjoy more vapor.
I'd like to buy a rda and build at about 1 ohm.
I'd simply just like to double my vapor production.

I'm just confused with a few different things.

I understand the function and purpose of a mod, witch is what draws me to them,i just see allot of dangers associated with them.

I know I will need to buy a battery. There are "safer " batteries correct to avoid over drawing them?

One other thing I don't understand is the relation between battery volts? And what the negative effects can possibly be.

For now I plan to stay around .8- 1.2 ohm builds

Just looking for info to go about this safely.

I can buy a mod for about 30$ as well as a RDA for about 30 at my local shop. Just need some info on safety before I make a plunge.

Sorry for the wall of text, and thanks in advance

 

[jwjordan322]

Added note: vaping some suicide bunny sucker Punch. Ohh my yum. Delish

 

[VBdev]

E-Cigarette Forum - Baditude - Blogs

You need to understand ohms law, baditude has several good blog entries on the subject.

Unlike your MVP, with a mech you are building a circuit without the safeguards provided by a regulated mod. You need to build the coil so that it does not attempt to draw more amperage than the battery can safely provide. So find out the max continuous amp limit of the battery, plug it into an ohm law calculator, determine the lowest resistance/ohms you should build your coil, then pad the number for a safety cushion. You would think a good place to determine the amp limit of a battery would be the amp limit on the side of the battery, but it's not. Some purple efests say 35 and they are really 20. Some vapors think it's fun to use the "burst" amp rating and not the continuous. This is not my idea of fun. The battery can go into thermal runaway and blow off your hand and re-arrange your face. Not good. Run some searches and do some research. There are reputable resources around which will tell you the true batteries amp limit.

Get an ohm meter and use it ALOT. research and be safe. The last thing vapors need right now in the face of regulations is a bunch of stupid mistake battery accidents.

 

[lamarrk]

Generally speaking, IMR batteries are considered safer than most any other battery.
Genuine AW IMR batteries are the best and safest IMR batteries available. There are a lot of knock-offs/fakes so you should buy them from a reputable dealer. Several of our Forum Suppliers sell real AW IMRs. Check them out.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Generally speaking, IMR batteries are considered safer than most any other battery.
Genuine AW IMR batteries are the best and safest IMR batteries available.

This isn't exact correct.
AW IMR 18650 batteries have lower amp limits than many other excellent IMR batteries (Sony VTC5, Panasonic, etc).

They are good with the 1.0 ohm coil mentioned in the OP, but not the "safest" to delve deep into the sub ohm territory (<.40 ohms).

 

[victoryt71]

E-Cigarette Forum - Baditude - Blogs


So find out the max continuous amp limit of the battery

VBdev, what have you discovered to be the most effective and reliable way to determine the continuous limit?

 

[readeuler]

VBdev, what have you discovered to be the most effective and reliable way to determine the continuous limit?

It requires some very specialized testing hardware, and unless you're an electronics buff, I would rely on the group consensus. Or example, lots of sites selling purple Efests list them as 35A continuous, but I would say at least 90% of people around the web with an opinion on the matter believe they are rewrapped LG HE2 batteries, and thus have a 20A CDR.

Baditude's blog - IMR or ICR - has a list of batteries that were available a few months ago, as well as the CDR's to the best of his knowledge. That's my go to, and I've been very happy with my Samsung 25R's.

 

[VBdev]

Yeah I go with the community consensus, including baditude's spreadsheet. Are you looking at 18650's?

Sony's are hard to come by, you have the VTC4 and VTC5. These are true 30 amp kick behind batteries, the VTC5 having longer life. Rumor has it they are being made again and may become available. Beware of fakes.

From there you have the AW, LG He2, Purple Efest, and Samsung. Note AW doesn't make batteries, they test and certify them to a particular rating and they are very reputable, so much so they are being faked as well. The "new" AW's improved their specs from the older ones now being 20A, 2200mAh and there is a 1600 mah 24amp option. I believe the purple efests to be re-wrapped LG HE2 at 20amps, personally I went to the source for the LG's on my last 18650 buy although I have a purple efest and it's never done me wrong. The samsungs are also 20amp batteries. For the most part the big manufacturer's make batteries so when you see some little off shoot company with a battery out the are re-wraps of LG, Sony, Samsung, etc... and they like advertising burst rating's, I guess they like things to burst. Also I heard never buy a battery or charger with the word "fire" in the name so I don't.

Great place to buy batteries, reputable Authentic AW Batteries - RTD Vapor More battery info Batteries and Chargers

So lets go for some examples, I can do the maths but generally just hit something like this Ohm's Law Calculator or download an app for your phone. The formulas are Voltage (E) = Current (I) * Resistance (R) and Power (watts) = Voltage (E) * Current (I) and from there you can derive Power (watts) = Voltage (E) * Voltage (E) / Resistance (I) or P = V^2/ R
-30 amp VTC5. Run the numbers for when your battery is fully charged so plug in 4.2 volts Says it's good down to .14 ohms. Do I have to hang by a finger off the ledge of the cliff or can I get 99% of the view a step back? Let's keep it above .2. I'd be very careful at .2, paying attention for hot switches making sure every contact is clean and in tip top order. I really don't want any shorts to happen. Will feel better at .25 or .3 ohms
-20amp battery. Again plug in 4.2 volts. says it's good to .21 ohms. Yeah lets stick to .3 and up
-Hey those new 18350 AW's are sporting a 12amp best 18350 amp rating. Grabbed up some of those for stealth mode. Plug in 4.2 volts and it's good down to .35 ohms. Lets stay above .4 for sure and feel better at .45 or .5.

On my erlK single coil RTA's I like .8ohms for the sweet spot. .7/.6 for when I'm feelin fiesty and I certainly enjoy 1.0/1.1/1.2 territory for laid back times. It's the dual coil (or more) drippers that have me going lower. Though I've been below .4 I'm very careful and cognisant of what's going on when I do. The Hobo likes .3ohms and I keep a viking around .4. They get the VTC5's and no 18350 time

Also,
Keep your mods and contacts clean, beware of shorts they'll change that resistance instantly, Always check and recheck with a good ohm meter like this one Home... This list could be a mile long. Really you need to understand what is going on with the circuit.

GL, HTH

 

[flaw101]

All very good information. With my mech mod and 18650s, I have been purchasing 6 mg eliquid. Great long lung hits. ( I normally puff 12 mg). I've started mixing 12 mg and doing short hits on the mod. I may be wrong, but from a safety aspect, just feels like there's less chance of over stressing the battery. Plus I get the same satisfaction from the vape. Everyone's different, but this works for me, and may be a bit safer.

I think your questions have been answered by others here, but I believe one of the real dangers with a mech mod are sticking contacts, drawing the charge too low on the battery and over heating the battery. Good luck my friend and keep reading.

 

[brickfollett]

download an ohms law helper app on your phone. For building on a mech, input 4.2 for the volts, because a fresh battery puts out 4.2 volts. Absolutely purchase an ohms reader. If you plan on building super sub ohm, like .2 ohms, don't buy a cheap one, because you want it to be accurate. Grab an assortment of wire, 28 gauge is generally a good place to start.

For building dual coils, remember that the wraps on each one must be the same amount.

Do not fire a build that you have not tested. After you assemble your build, put it on the ohm reader and see what it says. Flick both coils while its on there and observe the numbers to see if there are fluctuations. A fluctuation greater than +/- .02 ohms means that you have some sort of short. for batteries...

If your building above 0.4 ohms, a 20 amp battery is usually fine. The NEW AW 18650's are fine for this. LG HE series batteries work well too, among others.

For .3 ohms and above, find a (Samsung?) 25R battery. They're pretty easy to find and are baby blue in color.

Anything below that, find a VTC5 if possible. They are coming back, the plant just needs to go back online. Sony's VTC5 plant was near a nuclear meltdown or something and they had to relocate, which is why VTC5's are so hard to find right now. I have four, and primarily use them.

Take everyones advice very carefully, and make dead sure that the mechanical mod you purchase has some form of venting. When these batteries fail, they expand, and the expansion has to go somewhere. If there is no ventilation, you have a bad situation because the pressure builds, and you can imagine what happens next.