Currently using Halo Triton, looking to move into something with more power/flavor

[JJA504]

I posted this in the new members forum but I just wanted to post it here to get more recommendations.

I don't plan on rebuilding. It could eventually happen but I doubt it. I was going for the Aspire Nautilus but the wicking material concerns have me concerned so I opted out of that. I ended up checking out the Kanger Subtank and I like how its cotton that is being used. I have never sub ohm vaped before as I have just used the Halo Triton setup but I am curious. I thought I saw that it comes with a replacement coil @ 1.2 ohms. Anyway, I know this is dangerous stuff here and I am in a bit over my head. I need to figure out what mods I should be looking at to drive the Kanger subtank. I am not opposed to box mods or cylindrical/tube mods. I also need to get a read on what batteries to check out. I'm not too concerned with saving money as opposed to being 100% safe though.


1. What online sites are recommended for purchasing equipment?

2. What devices should I be looking at? I guess its not a big deal if it hangs over the mod since its 25mm but if I can find a good mod that it doesn't do that with, it would be preferable.

3. What batteries should I be looking at for said device?

4. Should I continue with the Kanger subtank option or just move to an Aspire Nautilus equivalent option? Will it provide me a substantial performance increase over the Tritons? What equivalents would I be looking at? I feel using cotton to be much better option but I don't know of other coils that use cotton besides the Kanger subtank which is a big plus for that atomizer.

 

[sando7]

well here is some info to get you started, if your going to go below 1ohm you definitely want to get reputable batts.
my preference in order would be.
1. VTC4 or VTC5 Sony's
2. Samsung 25R
3. LGHE2's

no one can tell you what Mod to buy that's totally up to you but here are a few places to get a decent start,
America's best vaping and ecig deals and steals - 101 Vape

http://vaporrange.com/variable-voltage.html

DesertVapes Electronic Cigarettes and Supply

Mods

https://88evape.com/product-category/mechanical-mods/

Thrifty E cig.com - Discounted ecig, mods and other vaping supplies - eGo, Aspire, istick, Hcigar to name a few - Mechanical mods, RDA's , RBA's, ego, wide bore drip tops, e fest batteries, aspire nautilus

here is some great info for ya
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...chargers-multi-meters-forum.html#post12698746

and batteries
Batteries | Lightning Vapes

Batteries-Chargers - Batteries - RTD vapor

good luck to ya & happy hunting

 

[JJA504]

Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh - RTD vapor

I looked at the chart for sub ohm and the Samsung 20R is ok at .5 ohms. I am guessing the 25R would be even better? According to the sub ohm section is says at least 10A continous discharge rate but 30 preferable. I only see a few batteries on there that do 30A though....

I think I may go box mod that way its easier to stand up when not in use. I see three that have my interest. Sigelei 50W, 100W v2, or the IPV 150W.
My question is this though, do any of these come with DNA chips and if not, why do I need the DNA chips? Also, I am guessing I would get substantial battery time on a mod like a 100W that can hold 2 batteries but I am using at 20-25 W.

 

[jpcwon]

Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh - RTD vapor

I looked at the chart for sub ohm and the Samsung 20R is ok at .5 ohms. I am guessing the 25R would be even better? According to the sub ohm section is says at least 10A continous discharge rate but 30 preferable. I only see a few batteries on there that do 30A though....

I think I may go box mod that way its easier to stand up when not in use. I see three that have my interest. Sigelei 50W, 100W v2, or the IPV 150W.
My question is this though, do any of these come with DNA chips and if not, why do I need the DNA chips? Also, I am guessing I would get substantial battery time on a mod like a 100W that can hold 2 batteries but I am using at 20-25 W.

The boxes you mentioned are not DNA-equipped boxes. The DNA chip is just a certain kind of variable wattage chip; you don't necessarily need a DNA chip. But if you do end up getting a box with a DNA, I would recommend starting with the DNA 30. It is a 30 watt chip which should provide you with plenty of power for most atomizers. The DNA 40 is the newest iteration of these chips, but all that does is give you temp. control and 10 extra watts. I wouldn't recommend jumping into temp. control yet as you have to use nickel wire to utilize temp control. You can still use kanthal with the DNA 40, but you do have the option of using ni200 (nickel) if you wish.... Nickel wire is notoriously difficult to work with though, so I would just stick with the pre-built Kanthal atomizers for now while you get your feet wet.

Any of the boxes you mentioned are decent choices, but you HAVE to make sure you get good batteries. I would recommend any of the batteries that sando mentioned.......

Also, keep in mind that most of those boxes which take 2 18650 batteries have the batteries wired in series, which means you will not ge double the battery life like you might think. The reason these boxes take 2 18650's in series is so that the input voltage is double. These high-watt boxes need more voltage to function.....if it's more battery life you're looking for, then you'll need 2 18650's wired in parallel......this will give you double the mAh's......

 

[JJA504]

I was about to just say **** it and order the vaporflask since its got removable batteries along with the DNA40 chip. Just future proof myself.

Honestly I just want a mod that can do 30W along with a removable battery. Should I be worried about temperature control if I stick to .5 ohms or higher at 25 - 30W?

Vapin Art has flasks in stock, any info on if they are reputable?

 

[jpcwon]

I was about to just say **** it and order the vaporflask since its got removable batteries along with the DNA40 chip. Just future proof myself.

Honestly I just want a mod that can do 30W along with a removable battery. Should I be worried about temperature control if I stick to .5 ohms or higher at 25 - 30W?

Vapin Art has flasks in stock, any info on if they are reputable?

Vaporflasks are great mods. I unfortunately had to send mine back to VF as it had a bad DNA 40 chip. The early DNA 40 chips had a few bad ones in the mix (not the fault of Vaporflask), and I got one of them. I am fairly certain that the new Flasks being offered for sale have "confirmed good" chips, so i think you'll be ok.

The cool thing about the VF is that it takes 2 18650's in parallel, so you'll get great battery life. And, if you decide to try rebuilding down the road, then 40 watts will, in most cases, be plenty of power. Or, if you decide to try your hand at building with nickel, then you always have the option of running it in Temp. mode.....

If you have the $$ and like the form factor, then you'd be hard-pressed to find a nicer mod for the money....I say go for it if you're feeling it!!

 

[JJA504]

I heard they were coming out with nickel kanger subohm coil heads so I may not even have to rebuild to access that feature.

However it is $300.

I don't chain vape. Usually on the Halo I would take 7-8 second drags every 20 seconds or longer intervals. But the pure volume this thing can dish out I can estimate 2-3 second drags in the same increments. Do you think my temperatures would be all over the place since I don't go back to back to back? Maybe get my foot in the door for $50-60 just in case the sub ohm is too much for me and I have to back down to something less so?

 

[krisjay]

My thoughts are you will at some point end up rebuilding, even if now you don't think so. I started my vaping journey on a Triton, if I knew then, what I know now, I'd have saved all the playing around and just started rebuilding, the quality of the vape is just so far above the Triton experience. Of course this is just my opinion. Either some mech mod's or a decent 50 watt box mod with a good RTA like the Orchid V4, you will notice a staggering difference from the Triton. Again, just my opinion, from someone who had no intention of ever rebuilding at one time.

 

[msmith4512]

I started vaping in February with a Halo G6 and then moved to a Triton. A simple step up for me in July was a Nautilus Mini and an iStick. But by September I began building my own coils for a Kayfun and in November I started building drippers. Now I use drippers exclusively at home and kayfuns on the go. But it took time and practice to get to 100% rebuilding mode. So given where you are at, I'd move to a good tank with pre-built coils as your next step. If you're concerned about the Aspire ceramic wicking material, then get a Kanger Subtank with the cotton coils and put it on an IPV Mini. Any 20A 18650 battery will be fine for the IPV Mini's 30 Watt max. You don't need to sub ohm on a regulated device. The chip adjusts the voltage to give you your desired wattage regardless of coil resistance. The IPV Mini will give your desired wattage with either the 0.5 or 1.2 ohm Kanger coils. Low ohm coils are really for getting higher wattage out of an unregulated mechanical mod where you cannot adjust the voltage.

 

[JJA504]

Now I need to find a vaporflask in stock. I was thinking about just using a sigelei 100w plus to get my feet wet first.

 

[classwife]

Moved to Variable Voltage APV Discussion from APV Discussion

 

[JJA504]

Sorry for not placing it in the right spot. Thanks for the correction!

Well my Sigelei 100W Plus and Subtank came in. Phenomenal !!!

Huge increase in quality, I absolutely love it. I left it in my truck last night and as I was making my 10 minute walk to my truck I was excited as a kid Christmas morning. This thing is awesome. Whenever the DNA 40s become more available I will grab one but for now this is great.

I do have a question though, how low should I run my batteries before I recharge them. I have two fully charged waiting to jump in but I don't want to mess these up. Should I run them into the ground or stop around 10%?