Dangerous to vape at high resistance?

[SickVaper]

Hi guys, new to vaping so please excuse my lack of knowledge.

A few days ago a mentioned a problem with my Ipv d2 reading resistance wrongly. I'm using a kanthal 10 wrap coils but it shows resistance @ 2.5 ohms. It troubled me but it's working fine albeit being a little too hot while vaping but I can deal with that. My question is, is that dangerous? Like is there a chance for something blowing up?
Of course if someone can direct me to a solution id be eternally thankful.

I'm using an IPV D2 / kangertech sub tank

Cheers!

 

[Sir2fyablyNutz]

Hi @SickVaper . 10 wraps of what gauge wire around what size diameter? It's possible the 2.2 ohm reading is accurate. BUT..lets suppose it isn't. Check all connections, between the tank and the mod (make certain it is clean), the rba screwed firmly into the tank, and the screws holding the coil inside the rba. Any of those issues can give a bad reading.

I use this steam engine : Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators to wrap all my coils.

There's always a chance something can go wrong and a battery can vent, in vapes as well as cell phones and laptops. With a regulated mod (like your D2) it's much safer. If the vape is too hot, turn down the power.

 

[zoiDman]

... and the screws holding the coil inside the rba. Any of those issues can give a bad reading.

...

This can Definitely cause the Ohms to Read High. And if you Dry Burn your Coils to Clean/Check for Hot Spots, they can Loosen.

 

[suprtrkr]

Hi again, we chatted the other day. I still don't have any idea what's causing your problem. Could you tell me the wire gauge of the Kanthal and the diameter of the mandrel you wrapped them on? I am guessing you are using the RBA deck in the Kanger, right? Then I can take a stab at what the resistance should be. It is not impossible that reading is correct. As has been said, a loose or dirty connection somewhere can also boost resistance quite a bit. To answer your question, it is not generally dangerous to vape at 2.5 ohms or so. Some people like coils that tall and, when I started, that was a medium resistance. Most regulated mods, even today, will take coils up to 3 ohms. Your IPV will not fire a coil that is outside it's parameters, either high or low. This, unfortunately, doesn't mean you don't have a problem or that it might not be dangerous. If you mod is broken, then all bets are off. But if something's loose or dirty, of if the coil naturally winds that high, then no real danger obtains. Just to give you an example, Steam Engine informs me a 10 wrap single coil in 29 gauge Kanthal A1 on a 3mm mandrel would ohm out at 2.5 ohms. That's not unreasonable for either 28 or 30 gauge wire, either, by the time you add in the legs and a small variance in the on-board ohmmeter of your IPV. For duals--it won't be on the Kanger RBA deck-- then 32 gauge wire would yield the same result, and 32 is another wire in common use. A little more info, please.

 

[AzPlumber]

If using multiples and one or more of the coils has popped (burnt through) the resistance of the intact coil(s) seen by the device will be higher.

 

[dhood]

That resistance is a bit high. I do 10 wraps of 28 gauge Kanthal on my Kayfuns and get 2.1 ohms on them. Make sure the bottom of the coil (where the air comes in) is tight. I've had my Subtank RBA deck loosen there once or twice and the resistance jumps a bit when that happens. Stick a micro screwdriver in there and tighten it down and it should be fine. Just know that you should probably lower your wattage a bit to run a higher ohm coil.

 

[SickVaper]

Hi again, we chatted the other day. I still don't have any idea what's causing your problem. Could you tell me the wire gauge of the Kanthal and the diameter of the mandrel you wrapped them on? I am guessing you are using the RBA deck in the Kanger, right? Then I can take a stab at what the resistance should be. It is not impossible that reading is correct. As has been said, a loose or dirty connection somewhere can also boost resistance quite a bit. To answer your question, it is not generally dangerous to vape at 2.5 ohms or so. Some people like coils that tall and, when I started, that was a medium resistance. Most regulated mods, even today, will take coils up to 3 ohms. Your IPV will not fire a coil that is outside it's parameters, either high or low. This, unfortunately, doesn't mean you don't have a problem or that it might not be dangerous. If you mod is broken, then all bets are off. But if something's loose or dirty, of if the coil naturally winds that high, then no real danger obtains. Just to give you an example, Steam Engine informs me a 10 wrap single coil in 29 gauge Kanthal A1 on a 3mm mandrel would ohm out at 2.5 ohms. That's not unreasonable for either 28 or 30 gauge wire, either, by the time you add in the legs and a small variance in the on-board ohmmeter of your IPV. For duals--it won't be on the Kanger RBA deck-- then 32 gauge wire would yield the same result, and 32 is another wire in common use. A little more info, please.

Hi there, thank you guys so much for providing inputs it really is nice to get some help while I'm panicking. Anyway, I'm using a 28 gauge kanthal wire, wrapped around a 0.5mm diameter screw. Now, I'm sure there's a problem because this same wire is used to make coils for my friends. And they get sub 1 resistance readings. (For 10 wraps their average reading is 0.6ohms)

Another issue is that the resistance is seldom constant. I'm running 20joules and resistance fluctuates from 2ohms to a crazy 4ohms. So I'm sure something is up. I'm at work now, so will probably clean up everything as mentioned and see how it works again.

 

[tehdarkaura]

if you've already checked the connections there is a chance the mod has a loose connection inside.

put the atty on something else and see what it reads and if its stable on that device (or ohm meter...)

after that you can narrow down the source of the issue.

 

[Ablonz]

I'm running 20joules and resistance fluctuates from 2ohms to a crazy 4ohms.

Your not running it in temperature mode are you? I am not sure how that mod works but I thought joules is temp mode. Kanthal and temp control is a no go as it cant read it correctly. I could be wrong.

 

[suprtrkr]

Hi there, thank you guys so much for providing inputs it really is nice to get some help while I'm panicking. Anyway, I'm using a 28 gauge kanthal wire, wrapped around a 0.5mm diameter screw. Now, I'm sure there's a problem because this same wire is used to make coils for my friends. And they get sub 1 resistance readings. (For 10 wraps their average reading is 0.6ohms)

Another issue is that the resistance is seldom constant. I'm running 20joules and resistance fluctuates from 2ohms to a crazy 4ohms. So I'm sure something is up. I'm at work now, so will probably clean up everything as mentioned and see how it works again.

If it's fluctuating, that sounds like a loose connection.

 

[SickVaper]

Loose connection between? If you're talking about the mod and the atomizer or the wires between the screws I've just tightened it!

Anyway I just checked, my wire is 24 gauge. My bad.

 

[Two_Bears]

Hi guys, new to vaping so please excuse my lack of knowledge.

A few days ago a mentioned a problem with my Ipv d2 reading resistance wrongly. I'm using a kanthal 10 wrap coils but it shows resistance @ 2.5 ohms. It troubled me but it's working fine albeit being a little too hot while vaping but I can deal with that. My question is, is that dangerous? Like is there a chance for something blowing up?
Of course if someone can direct me to a solution id be eternally thankful.

I'm using an IPV D2 / kangertech sub tank

Cheers!

The general safe vaping zone is .3-3 ohms.

If you get good quality 18650 batteries you can safely vape all the way down to .15 ohms.

You are much more likely to have a problem by going too low.

I prefer my coils in my RTAs to be .8-1 ohm.