Also true, but that limiter is only a function of the materials and quality of assembly of said switch. A heavy duty switch can exceed the delivery capacity of (some) batteries, making the point of self destruction a moot point.
Define a mechanical mod.
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Also true, but that limiter is only a function of the materials and quality of assembly of said switch. A heavy duty switch can exceed the delivery capacity of (some) batteries, making the point of self destruction a moot point.
The limiter or amp limit of a wired switch is placed there as a safety feature by the manufacturer to protect the user and the mod.
I'm not here to argue about build quality and safety features, just saying that some mods have amp limits on them and others do not.
I'm not here to argue about build quality and safety features, just saying that some mods have amp limits on them and others do not.
Mech mods can have wires. Someone, somewhere, just up and "decided" that they don't like wires and they pretend that any mod with a wire is not a mech mod. It's wrong.
Although you may have a personal preference for no-wire mech-mods....any contact is really a "wire". Some are solid wires (like the pins in a button switch) and some may be stranded wires so they can re-position the switch away from the bottom. Regardless, it's in essence a conductor wire.
The original "mech mods" we used to build were DIY e-cigs....all mech....from 2xAA boxes. With a wire of course. All the current went through the button but through wires too. That's not cool for today's high-amp stuff. But in the old days, it was a quick way to DIY an e-cig for a few bucks.
If you think about it, your house has more watts running through it at any given moment (through wires) than any e-cig. And you seldom have to maintain them. That's not to say people haven't done stupid things and under-speced or over-watted a wire in an e-cig or house.
It's probably better not to have "a wire". But, it's wrong to say an e-cig with a wire in it isn't an mech mod or isn't "full mech".
and opinion.
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Well said, and the same point I was going to try to make. Thankfully you typed in before I had a chance to confuse myself or others further
(Or sound like an argumentative something-or-another; absolutely not my intention.) Sans fuse, I would think my wood-bodied e-pipes would be considered mech mods even though they have wires from the contact points to the battery.
One of the great things about mechanical PVs is their toughness. Wires can melt or break. The switch can also break, but it is hard to break a piece of 1/8" thick brass or SS (like switch buttons) or Brass or SS tubes (like tube mod sleeves). Consider also that if you short a 18650 battery you could be drawing 250 watts until the battery gives up the ghost. That's a lot of heat.
I hear ya AttyPops and I agree. Terminology does change over time though. I've only been around for a couple of years, but I remember when a 'tank' was a device that always had a carto in it and everyone called a clearo a clearo. And what the heck is a RTA?
In the end it's all good as long as we can all communicate
Mech mods can have wires. Someone, somewhere, just up and "decided" that they don't like wires and they pretend that any mod with a wire is not a mech mod. It's wrong.
Although you may have a personal preference for no-wire mech-mods....any contact is really a "wire". Some are solid wires (like the pins in a button switch) and some may be stranded wires so they can re-position the switch away from the bottom. Regardless, it's in essence a conductor wire.
The original "mech mods" we used to build were DIY e-cigs....all mech....from 2xAA boxes. With a wire of course. All the current went through the button but through wires too. That's not cool for today's high-amp stuff. But in the old days, it was a quick way to DIY an e-cig for a few bucks.
If you think about it, your house has more watts running through it at any given moment (through wires) than any e-cig. And you seldom have to maintain them. That's not to say people haven't done stupid things and under-speced or over-watted a wire in an e-cig or house.
It's probably better not to have "a wire". But, it's wrong to say an e-cig with a wire in it isn't an mech mod or isn't "full mech".
I'm going to have to agree with Attypops here. I started a thread a long time ago here challenging the idea that a mech has to be wire-free, few agreed obviously.
I think the difference is how you frame it, when looking at it in theory there is truly no difference between a typical "mechanical" mod and one that uses wires and an off the shelf switch. Use some 10g wire and a high-amperage push button switch and you could produce a PV with a voltage drop on par with good mech mods.
But in practice, there aren't any made that I'd trust with really high power vaping, and there aren't even that many made in the first place. So, wires being taboo is a custom that developed because the only wired mods around would melt down at high amperage. But that doesn't mean there is anything inherently wrong with wires and commercial switches, just in the way that design has been executed so far.
There are also PVs that fall into somewhat of a grey area, that use an actual electronically controlled switch, but aren't regulated (or at least not fully) So they behave similar to a mechanical (or a "faux mech" with wires) but have a chip that controls the switch, and would totally not be considered a mech mod regardless of wires.
I more or less agree with that U.C. however, I wouldn't call anything with a power FET in it...a mech mod. Not only is there a voltage drop across the FET, but it will fry at high watts (well, many would. I'm sure there's some that are 1000 watts or whatever.)
However, it's a more "active" component (not in the electronic sense, but in the mech vs non-mech sense)...so it introduces "non mechanical" stuffis. It would be cool to build one though. The button maintenance would be a LOT lower.
However, it's a more "active" component (not in the electronic sense, but in the mech vs non-mech sense)...so it introduces "non mechanical" stuffis. It would be cool to build one though. The button maintenance would be a LOT lower.
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A metal tube, battery inside, switch somewhere, 510 connection...
Everything else is lipstick ;-)
Everything else is lipstick ;-)
Provape-1 Features:
16 Second Safety Cutoff
Short Circuit Protection
Reverse Battery Protection
Thermal Monitoring System
Amperage Limiting
Fail Safe Monitoring Circuit
That's no mechanical, man.
There is a difference between just lacking VV/VW and a mechanical. You can have non-variable or non-fixed power output, and still tons of circuitry regulating other things.
The PV-1 is about as mechanical as an eGo. In fact, the PV-1 is basically an eGo, with swappable
One could get away with calling a Silver Bullet a mechanical... with the occasional air-quotes "well it's not a true mechanical, but.."
Not a PV-1. Nope.
EDIT - I was wrong about the 18xxx batteries. The PV-1 only uses 14500 batteries.
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Meh, I wish I was using a Provape-1 instead of the mod I was using when I had a 14500 battery blow up in my first mechanical. If it had all the safety features of the Provape-1, this would not have happened:
Great information guys. I cant wait to go back & read some of my early posting once I know more.. im sure ill get a chuckle. But we were all new to this at one point.. glad I have such a knowledgeable & friendly community here to help educate me!
I can has tapatalked this.
I can has tapatalked this.
Button and battery, wires are fine, but no integrated circuits anywhere in the design. Really not much more to think about other than that. A ProVape one does not meet the definition of a mech mod.
I was going to say dildo versus vibrator but when i thought of it that analogy doesn't hold up.
I was going to say dildo versus vibrator but when i thought of it that analogy doesn't hold up.
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