DIY Mod Is This Even Safe

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Cheallaigh

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Aug 13, 2016
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look, you're using scrap parts, unknown metals and components, questionable items to make the mod.

you haven't said what battery... there are a ton of batteries that are 3.7 volts and most of the are not capable of the amps, even if they are a genuine brand.
okay 5 wraps of 24g kanthal.. so how many ohms is that?
Z pointed out the need for battery vents... do you know why? when you can't even say what kind of battery it is?

we're not trying to be mean, we're concerned for your safety.
 

Dougiestyle

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By your declaration of "genuine battery of 3.7 volts", it is obvious you are ignorant of pertinent facts. Skip the questions. Just buy mod that has safety features built in. It appears you are out of your element in trying to build mechanical mods. You lack the information necessary to do so in a safe manner.

I'm almost willing to send you a regulated mod just to save you from yourself.
 

RiSK

Full Member
Jan 16, 2017
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By your declaration of "genuine battery of 3.7 volts", it is obvious you are ignorant of pertinent facts. Skip the questions. Just buy mod that has safety features built in. It appears you are out of your element in trying to build mechanical mods. You lack the information necessary to do so in a safe manner.

I'm almost willing to send you a regulated mod just to save you from yourself.
If you have then send me one haha
 

zoiDman

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I have a genuine battery of 3.7 volts and I did a 5 wrap 24 gauge kanthal coil

This Isn't very Meaningful. And why People perceive that you Don't Understand what is going on.

What Should be Important to you is what will be the Constant Amp Draw from such a Build? And can the Battery you are using Safely handle such a Constant Amp Draw?

So what is the Amp Draw of your Build?
And what is the CDR of the Battery you are using?

If you Can Not Answer these 2 Fundamental Questions, you should Not be using a Mechanical Mod. Let alone building one.

You keep Asking if the Mod is Safe? Maybe you should start Asking if the Operator of the Mod is Safe instead?
 

RiSK

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Jan 16, 2017
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This Isn't very Meaningful. And why People perceive that you Don't Understand what is going on.

What Should be Important to you is what will be the Constant Amp Draw from such a Build? And can the Battery you are using Safely handle such a Constant Amp Draw?

So what is the Amp Draw of your Build?
And what is the CDR of the Battery you are using?

If you Can Not Answer these 2 Fundamental Questions, you should Not be using a Mechanical Mod. Let alone building one.

You keep Asking if the Mod is Safe? Maybe you should start Asking if the Operator of the Mod is Safe instead?
I have a Samsung 25r and my coil draws 4.6 amps it is 28 gauge 6 wraps single coil which is 0.8 ohms
 
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Cheallaigh

Ultra Member
Aug 13, 2016
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I have a Samsung 25r and my coil draws 4.6 amps it is 28 gauge 6 wraps single coil which is 0.8 ohms
you do realise you just changed the coil you said on the previous page? you know the one Z quoted?

get yourself a cheap kanger dripbox 60w... it will be slightly harder to blow yourself up with that and they have a few safeties.
 

zoiDman

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I have a Samsung 25r and my coil draws 4.6 amps it is 28 gauge 6 wraps single coil which is 0.8 ohms

OK... so now we are using 28ga with 6 Wraps instead of 24ga with 5 wraps.

And the Amps would be around 5.2A and Not 4.6A because you need to Calculate Amps for a Mech Mod when the Battery is at Full Charge, 4.2v. And not at a Batteries Nominal Voltage of 3.7v.

Either way, 4.6A or 5.2A, an Authentic Samsung 25r can handle this type of CDR. Cool.

But hears the Deal. How is that Battery going to handle things when the RDA you build Shorts? Or one of your Solder Joints comes Lose? This is when having some Vent Holes is like Insurance.

You can do Better. Think things Through.

Any way to Turn the Mod Off so it can be Carried?
Is the Glue safe to use around e-Liquids?
Does this Tape Break Down when Heated?
Does a Plastic Leach anything Hazardous to Ingest?
 

RiSK

Full Member
Jan 16, 2017
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OK... so now we are using 28ga with 6 Wraps instead of 24ga with 5 wraps.

And the Amps would be around 5.2A and Not 4.6A because you need to Calculate Amps for a Mech Mod when the Battery is at Full Charge, 4.2v. And not at a Batteries Nominal Voltage of 3.7v.

Either way, 4.6A or 5.2A, an Authentic Samsung 25r can handle this type of CDR. Cool.

But hears the Deal. How is that Battery going to handle things when the RDA you build Shorts? Or one of your Solder Joints comes Lose? This is when having some Vent Holes is like Insurance.

You can do Better. Think things Through.

Any way to Turn the Mod Off so it can be Carried?
Is the Glue safe to use around e-Liquids?
Does this Tape Break Down when Heated?
Does a Plastic Leach anything Hazardous to Ingest?
I will not use that MOD from now on
 

RiSK

Full Member
Jan 16, 2017
35
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29
OK... so now we are using 28ga with 6 Wraps instead of 24ga with 5 wraps.

And the Amps would be around 5.2A and Not 4.6A because you need to Calculate Amps for a Mech Mod when the Battery is at Full Charge, 4.2v. And not at a Batteries Nominal Voltage of 3.7v.

Either way, 4.6A or 5.2A, an Authentic Samsung 25r can handle this type of CDR. Cool.

But hears the Deal. How is that Battery going to handle things when the RDA you build Shorts? Or one of your Solder Joints comes Lose? This is when having some Vent Holes is like Insurance.

You can do Better. Think things Through.

Any way to Turn the Mod Off so it can be Carried?
Is the Glue safe to use around e-Liquids?
Does this Tape Break Down when Heated?
Does a Plastic Leach anything Hazardous to Ingest?
i didn't even knew that my atomizer could short
 

Mike 586

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ECF Veteran
Dec 6, 2014
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Ottawa
You know, at first my suspicion was that the OP was trolling, so I kinda treated the thread as such. It seems I misjudged him and that he's genuine, so I'll give some solid advice.

There were a number of things wrong with your build, and I don't want to insult your efforts.

If you want to build a good, unregulated box mod, you can largely copy these plans. The one thing I'll stress are the fuses. Use real fuses, not PTCs. They're cheaper, easier to find and far more reliable. Slow blow, or sometimes called time delay would be best.

bUdCZBX.png

(you can ignore the voltmeter portion)
(I've never built or tested the circuit, but I don't see the need to double up the mosfets, the IRLB3034BF for instance is rated for 375W power dissipation and 195A, one is way more than enough)

You can build that circuit as a dual 18650 or single 18650, it will work either way. Also, you can go up to a 20A fuse or fuses if you go dual 18650 as the drawing shows, though my preference would be 15A for the added safety margin.

If you really want to build a device yourself, this is about as cheap as it gets while remaining relatively safe.

You could probably scrounge the mosfets and resistors from trash electronics, you can get away with a 5k to 15k for the pull down resistor, and maybe even find a suitable mosfet, they're extremely common parts.

Also, if you can order from Fasttech, some of the parts they have are among the cheapest you'll find anywhere for pretty decent quality.

$1.69 DIY 2*18650 Battery Clip Holder for Box Mod - w/ THM connect pins at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$1.44 1*18650 Battery Holder Case w/ SMD Mount at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$1.97 DIY Self-adjusting 510 Connector for E-Cigarette - stainless steel + brass / 22mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
 

RiSK

Full Member
Jan 16, 2017
35
18
29
th
You know, at first my suspicion was that the OP was trolling, so I kinda treated the thread as such. It seems I misjudged him and that he's genuine, so I'll give some solid advice.

There were a number of things wrong with your build, and I don't want to insult your efforts.

If you want to build a good, unregulated box mod, you can largely copy these plans. The one thing I'll stress are the fuses. Use real fuses, not PTCs. They're cheaper, easier to find and far more reliable. Slow blow, or sometimes called time delay would be best.

bUdCZBX.png

(you can ignore the voltmeter portion)
(I've never built or tested the circuit, but I don't see the need to double up the mosfets, the IRLB3034BF for instance is rated for 375W power dissipation and 195A, one is way more than enough)

You can build that circuit as a dual 18650 or single 18650, it will work either way. Also, you can go up to a 20A fuse or fuses if you go dual 18650 as the drawing shows, though my preference would be 15A for the added safety margin.

If you really want to build a device yourself, this is about as cheap as it gets while remaining relatively safe.

You could probably scrounge the mosfets and resistors from trash electronics, you can get away with a 5k to 15k for the pull down resistor, and maybe even find a suitable mosfet, they're extremely common parts.

Also, if you can order from Fasttech, some of the parts they have are among the cheapest you'll find anywhere for pretty decent quality.

$1.69 DIY 2*18650 Battery Clip Holder for Box Mod - w/ THM connect pins at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$1.44 1*18650 Battery Holder Case w/ SMD Mount at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$1.97 DIY Self-adjusting 510 Connector for E-Cigarette - stainless steel + brass / 22mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
thank you but do you have single 18650 unregulated mod diagram
 

rob33

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That fuse holder could mount through a hole in the side of your mod similar to the way the fire button is mounted. Yes, it could be used to hold the fuse. You'd cut the wire from the battery negative (-) terminal and attach the two wires to the terminals on the fuse holder and screw the holder to the case.

The one you linked would stick out on the side. The one I linked and imaged would mount inside. The fuse would snap into the clips. One terminal would go to the battery wire and the other to the switch wire after cutting the wire from the switch to the battery.

Normally, the fuse is on the positive wire coming from the source voltage. Since total current draw is the same throughout the circuit the fuse can also be on the return or negative end of the circuit, since you have room in the box for the hardware at that point in the circuit and no room between the battery and the atomizer coil.

I can remember when the Silverbullet was a major upgrade from what we were using. I also have the same feelings as Grim and still have my original SB. I also remember the plans to the build mod in this thread and a major upgrade to it was a MOSFET fuse sold by madvapes. So "we've come a long way baby".
 

Mike 586

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 6, 2014
321
356
Ottawa
th
thank you but do you have single 18650 unregulated mod diagram
Yeah, you can just ignore the top fuse and the battery on the right and build that circuit as a single 18650 mod.

Actually, here's a site where a guy is doing an unregulated mosfet mod pretty well. The diagram on the site is a little tough to read if you aren't familiar with schematics, but its the way I draw them as well.

Its essentially the same as the easier to read image below with the addition of a fuse between the battery positive and the 510 connector. You can use a 1/4" slow blow fuse, an automotive fuse like that guy used would be fine as well.

$25 510 18650 Box Mod | Nullism.com
 
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