DNA 20/30 as Compared To Provari v2.5

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Runningw235

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So let me first say that this is not to be one of those ridiculous argumentative threads.


I LOVE my provari mini with my kayfun on top. I'm the kind of guy that likes to get new shiny things, but only if they will be atleast a partial upgrade. I've been reading as much as I can about dna 20 and dna 30 devices, and I still am unsure of what to think.

Are there any capabilities in these devices (other than purely wattage, which alone means nothing to me) that are not able to be performed by my mini?

For example, I know they can go slightly sub-ohm, but I'm unsure of how limited I will be in my wattage adjustments. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Needless to say, my provari (the awesome device that it is) is going nowhere. :vapor:
 

smokin1337

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I don't own either one so I'm not bias I have read and watched videos and learned about both and decided to get a dna mod pretty much for one reason there are quite a few different styles of devices I like the variation in them.

There are just a few differences as far as function goes the dna obviously has higher outputs for volts and wattage. The dna can vape at lower ohms than the provari. The provari is a very well built mod with a lot of support from the makers dna mods are made by anyone which can be bad or good depending on which one you buy. The provari is a high quality mod and is better priced than most if not all dna mods.

I am either gonna get the zna or the hana modz v3. But I know I'll get a provari right after lol. These are just my opinions.

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PLANofMAN

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Unless the DNA mod has built in (physical) reverse battery protection, (look for "takes button top only") you can fry a DNA 20/30 board by accidentally putting a battery in backwards. Also a DNA device can't produce less voltage than the battery outputs. So if you use a freshly charged battery, the lowest voltage you can vape at is 4.2 v. As the battery drains, you can vape at lower voltages.
 

p.opus

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Unless the DNA mod has built in (physical) reverse battery protection, (look for "takes button top only") you can fry a DNA 20/30 board by accidentally putting a battery in backwards. Also a DNA device can't produce less voltage than the battery outputs. So if you use a freshly charged battery, the lowest voltage you can vape at is 4.2 v. As the battery drains, you can vape at lower voltages.

This is why you see most DNA devices either have a factory installed "replaceable" battery that you charge via micro USB, or they have physical battery protection like the ZNA.

While this chipset does show promise, it has a minimum wattage of 7 watts, which means you can feasibly cook some juices on it at it's lowest setting using the wrong atty type.

I had already pulled the trigger on a Protovapor XPV when my order was "cancelled" because they moved from PayPal to credit card. (I had room on my PayPal account). I don't fault them for this, PayPal had given them a cease and desist.

If that had not occurred, then I would have never bought a ProVari. The ProVari was an impulse buy for me at a vape meet, (If you can call trying it out for 30 minutes and listening to the voices in my head argue, an impulse).

It all came down to one thing for me. Proven track record. ProVari's have them, no other regulated mod's do. Do I miss VW? Yes, although it's less of an issue since I build my own heads, and the Kayfun vapes beautifully at 8 watts, so I simply apply the resistance plus two rule. My two coils are exactly 2 ohm coils so my tanks now are built identically, so Variable wattage has become a non issue for me. Although I did like it when I was swapping out 4 mini pro tank 2's.

I still take my MVP2's out and about and will continue to do so. But it's comforting to know, especially since 2014 is shaping up to be a HORRIBLE year for vapers, and should 2014 be the forebearer of the vapocalypse, I'll be prepared with two high quality provari's wire, ekowool and zero nic juice. (That I can make my own should that become scarce.)
 

Riverboat

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So let me first say that this is not to be one of those ridiculous argumentative threads.
I LOVE my provari mini with my kayfun on top. I'm the kind of guy that likes to get new shiny things, but only if they will be atleast a partial upgrade. I've been reading as much as I can about dna 20 and dna 30 devices, and I still am unsure of what to think.
Are there any capabilities in these devices? Needless to say, my provari (the awesome device that it is) is going nowhere. :vapor:
My provari was an upgrade to my VAMO. I`m very sure that any owner of a DNA20/30 will agree that they are an upgrade to their provari`s. But...they have to prove if they have the same durabillity
Well I have been running a Kick2 since their release and it has been flawless... Provaris rock but VW is a set and forget vape...No need to adjust the voltage as the atomizers ohms change with age.... I hope the DNA30 is as bullet proof as a Provari chipset ??




Also a DNA device can't produce less voltage than the battery outputs. So if you use a freshly charged battery, the lowest voltage you can vape at is 4.2 v. As the battery drains, you can vape at lower voltages.

Yesterday by luck I was able to score a ZNA (DNA30 mod) from ElectroNicStix.... Not being able to ramp down voltage is a concern if you are a sub ohm vapor...especially with a fresh battery... Let say a fresh battery under load gives 4 volts/with a 0.8 ohm atomizer that = 20 watts... Good thing I use 2+ ohm atomizer setups.......
 
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slappy3139

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My provari was an upgrade to my VAMO. I`m very sure that any owner of a DNA20/30 will agree that they are an upgrade to their provari`s. But...they have to prove if they have the same durabillity

Just got my zna today. Don't think of it as an upgrade to my varis, just got it so I could do things my varis can't.

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SoberSnyper

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Well I have 3 Provaris and they will always be my go to devices. Like Slappy above I received my ZNA today and got it to do low ohm dual coil setups that I cannot do with my Provaris. Nothing beats a Provari but it can't do everything which is why I got the ZNA. I like the ZNA because it gives me more flexibility and I refuse to vape unregulated.
 

slappy3139

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With the ability to run 30 watts what is the point of building a low ohm build? Why not build a 2 ohm coil and crank the watts up? Real question. Just curious.

As I type this I'm vaping a .5 build on my nemmy. About 35 watts. I get that for sure!

I would like to know the answer myself, I was vaping at 20 watts earlier on a 1.8 ohm microcoil

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PLANofMAN

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With the ability to run 30 watts what is the point of building a low ohm build? Why not build a 2 ohm coil and crank the watts up? Real question. Just curious.

As I type this I'm vaping a .5 build on my nemmy. About 35 watts. I get that for sure!

I would like to know the answer myself, I was vaping at 20 watts earlier on a 1.8 ohm microcoil

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"'Cause I kin get clouds from 1/2 sec hit on my 0.01 ohm atty! clouds! and when I grab my crotch while doin' it, i look kewl!"*
Epic-Cloud.jpg


*said no one ever.
 

Ozwald

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Snipping this from reddit, Lance from SteamMonkey laying it down. Thought some of you might enjoy it, it's a good read and a sober argument.

Just thought I'd drop this here since I've been having this discussion a lot.

Folks are coming into vaping and seeing sub-ohms and low resistance, etc, as the 'standard' for increasing your vape experience. And, for a while, that was the answer.

however, that was the answer when true regulation wasn't that prolific.

Without going into a full vaping history diatribe here, we started with crappy 3.2-3.7v devices that couldn't push anything lower than about a 1.8ohm atomizer without frying. People realized that they needed more heat, more power, more wattage. THe devices we had couldn't do it so mechanical style devices started happenign. Flashlight mods mostly.

The point being, that crappy mosfet driven ego/cigalike couldn't hit as hard as we wanted so we eliminated it with higher powered switches/mechanical style devices. Now, we've got raw battery voltage at 3.7v. We want more wattage so the only way to fix that is to reduce the resistance of our heating elements. And... that's what happened. It became the standard, RBAs blew up, mechs blew up, etc.

Now, fast forward to today... the vast majority of people who've entered the vaping world are entering with MVPs, Twists, VV V3s, they're graduating to Kicked devices, Provari, Vamo, Evic, even DNA powered devices... power and voltage regulation are prolific... but, a lot of folks are still constantly yearning for that 'sub ohm' vape...

But that's pointless. We started reducing resistance to increase wattage, now we have the ability to increase our voltage. There's no reason to reduce resistance with a regulated device. In fact, you're hurting yourself because as soon as you drop below the max wattage and/or amp rating of your device, you're essentially wasting money and effort.

If you have a lower cost regulated device like a twist, MVP, Vamo, etc, you're not going to get 30w out of it. You also don't need to... you do not want to build these things at .5ohm.

This is where it starts to get complicated... first, we started reducing resistance to create more wattage, to do that, we had to go with thicker and thicker resistance wire or smaller and smaller coils. The downside to this was the coils heat up slower because they're thicker or they have reduced vapor production because they're smaller. So dual coils and what not started happening.

but here's the trick, with regulated power, you don't have to use 28awg, you aren't striving for a super low resistance coil. Build that puppy up to 2ohm with 30 or 32awg wire, build a nice, big, THIN WIRE coil. Thin wire and higher resistance means you can build a larger coil with a wire that's going to heat up a LOT faster. That means more instant return, peak heat earlier in the hit, and a more rapid heat response. You'll get an effectively higher temperature vape at a lower wattage level due to those aspects of thinner wire/larger coils. You'll have significantly increased surface area for wire-juice contact which will produce more vapor.

In testing with my ZNA, I've run a wide variety of coil set ups. The best performing coil has been a single, 2ohm coil made out of 30awg wire.

Now, the coil isn't the only thing that mattered, I had to increase my airflow to support that big coil with a big hole. I had to put wick all over the place around the coil to keep it juicy since it was firing so much faster and so much hotter than a 'thick' coil at a lower resistance.

The reason for this is because my device no longer gives a .... what my resistance is... it's pushing out X wattage, regardless of what the coil is (As long as I'm within the operating parameters).

SO. Stop focusing on "sub ohm" if you've got a regulated device. Start thinking about the physics of vaping and build with that in mind on the platform you have access to.

If you're running a mech, well... resistance IS king for you. If you're running a regulated device, start thinking outside the standard low ohm concept and you'll be amazed at the results.

Might get me to dust off one of my regulated devices. Might.

Borrowing this post from the gear chat on EVF. Couldn't say it better myself.
 

Topwater Elvis

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My provari was an upgrade to my VAMO. I`m very sure that any owner of a DNA20/30 will agree that they are an upgrade to their provari`s. But...they have to prove if they have the same durabillity

I went through 3 different apv's with dna 20's, IMO they were not an upgrade, I preferred the vape I get from a Provari used side by side.
They also proved to be too fragile for my daily use, I can honestly say the same about all the other APV's Ive owned & used except the Provari.

Not knocking or bashing what others prefer, no fanboyism here at all, durability is the most important attribute for me / my lifestyle.
 

EddardinWinter

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I went through 3 different apv's with dna 20's, IMO they were not an upgrade, I preferred the vape I get from a Provari used side by side.
They also proved to be too fragile for my daily use, I can honestly say the same about all the other APV's Ive owned & used except the Provari.

Not knocking or bashing what others prefer, no fanboyism here at all, durability is the most important attribute for me / my lifestyle.

Just the sort of thing I would expect a diehard fanboy to say. (2)
 

p.opus

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Borrowing this post from the gear chat on EVF. Couldn't say it better myself.

Love this post.... I have a Kayfun at 8.0 watts on a 2.0 ohm coil and couldn't be happier. I use 34 gauge resistance wire (bought some to intially recoil protanks). a nice 3/4 wrap delivers 2.0 ohm coils and puts me right into the sweet spot.

Y'all can have your sub ohm and dual and quad coil setups....that eat 18650's for breakfast...
 

Riverboat

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Well I have 3 Provaris and they will always be my go to devices. Like Slappy above I received my ZNA today and got it to do low ohm dual coil setups that I cannot do with my Provaris. Nothing beats a Provari but it can't do everything which is why I got the ZNA. I like the ZNA because it gives me more flexibility and I refuse to vape unregulated.

I love my Provari but have been running a Kick2 in my SuperT ELA... IMO VW Kick delivers a superior vape. My ZNA is scheduled for delivery today, looking forward to it.....
 
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