I don't call a chipset that can't adjust below current battery output voltage as being bullet proof. I vape at 8 watts on a kayfun. A dna 20 or 30 would not fire that until the output voltage dropped to 4.0 volts or below.
Even the Kick 2 can regulate voltage below the battery output.
I too don't get the whole "sub ohm" thing. Sub Ohming started as a necessity to raise wattage on a mechanical mod that did not have any regulation. Now it's more like how many watts can I push to a coil.....
I have no desire to belch out some huge mushroom cloud from my mouth. Didn't do it while smoking don't need to do it now. For me it's about flavor. A 2.0 ohm to 2.2 ohm coil in a Kayfun gives me tremendous flavor and adequate cloud. And it sits right in the ProVari's wheel house.
Why would I want to intentionally lower my battery life and intentionally build a sub ohm coil (especially when I don't need to) to put on a regulated mod.
Thus sub-ohming on a mod, even something like a dna 20/30 or that ridiculous 75Watt mod coming out (SuperMax) just is dumb in my opinion.
I had the chance to buy a Supermax 70 watt mod but passed.. It is made by Atisan vapor. I have had their Crowns..Lots of problems with the Crown and when you send it back not only does it cost a lot but takes weeks since it goes thru Canadian customs.. Here is the deal even though I will never use 30 watts its like having a 200mph Ferrair...You would be able to go that fast on the streets, but I like to know its there..
I have done sub ohm vaping but since I always use a regulated mod (Provari, Kicked Mechanical, or now my ZNA) there is no need to use a sub ohm coil.. RDA's. they are great, but for the most part I use HH357 custom 3.0 ohm atomizers.. Im a direct dripper and prefer the small 510 form factor that the HH offers.. Provari is rock solid but it has its drawbacks--Its VV not VW..I know we can check the attys ohms and adjust voltage accordingly to give a set vape output(watts)..The problem is that an attys resistance drops with age so unless you make the proper adjustments by checking your ohms and adjusting voltage you vape will change.. I know this isn't that big of a deal but the technology has been developed to correct that problem--Variable Wattage.. Plus the fact that you can change from one atty to the next and even though they may be different ohm ratings the vape will be the same power output.. Lets talk about the Provari menu system. Yes it is easy to use but how many times have you taken a hit then another and you find your self in PU mode? That's a drawback of the 1 button system The DNA30 screen shows your attys resistance, remaining battery power, set wattage, and voltage output under load... As you can see there are lots of ways to improve upon the Provari chip as it is a outdate by todays vaping standards... I have been with Provape since the inception of the Provape1 and have always been one of their biggest supports. But lets get real its time they update their system.. Provape can still sell the Provari V2.5 but give us advanced vapors something more current....Not everyone wants to vape at 4.2 v or higher. ECF is not representative of mainstream vaping. Most vapers want a device that will do 3.7 v or a bit higher, have never heard of sub-ohm vaping, rebuildables, or PBusardo.
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