DNA 40 / Lemo Build problems

[Jez1982]

I have recently purchased a dna 40 device and feel like I have lost all my build knowledge!! I am using awg 28 wire if I do 10 wraps on a 2.5mm drill bit I get a reading of around .13 on any of my devices if I replicate the build on the Lemo it comes out .27 or above. What is going on can someone share any light on this?


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[RandyF]

I have recently purchased a DNA 40 device and feel like I have lost all my build knowledge!! I am using awg 28 wire if I do 10 wraps on a 2.5mm drill bit I get a reading of around .13 on any of my devices if I replicate the build on the Lemo it comes out .27 or above. What is going on can someone share any light on this?


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I don't know what the issue with yours is specifically, but I can tell you the DNA40 and Lemo work very well together. A rDNA40 and Lemo are my ADV combo.

The Lemo's 510 pin is recessed pretty far (by normal standards) so depending on what device you are using it on, it may not be making a good connection with your device. I don't recommend backing out the screw to extend it because that will just make the connection loose which will also cause you problems. I added a small o-ring, fashioned from a protank coil insulator, to the 510 screw to push it out a bit while keeping it snug. I made a post regarding the method in the Lemo thread, I will look for it after I post this then edit with a link.

 

[Jez1982]

I am also running it on the rdna 40. The 510 pin on the Lemo has not been animated but is in a good position making a good connection. How are you building yours?


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[dr g]

It is fairly common for people to run into issues with the Lemo with temp control. In they end they can be solved, but in the short term when starting out you may want to use a simpler atomizer.

 

[RandyF]

I have a link in my signature regarding the DNA40 with some good information. I have always used the 8/9 wrap build around a 6-32 screw suggested in that post and it has always been consistent.

 

[Podunk Steam]

I have two Lemos, one works well on the TC and the other not so well. The issue with the one that doesn't work so well was the electrical connections that were fairly easy to fix with a brass M3 standoff screw. I turned down the head and shortened it enough that it bottoms out in the adjustable 510 screw hole of the Lemo. It's been stable since.

 

[Jdurand]

I would have to say that the issue is with the Mod and not the tank. I use my lemo on a Istick 50W an Istick 30W and my Segelei 100W and all read the same build as the same resistance.

 

[dr g]

I would have to say that the issue is with the Mod and not the tank. I use my lemo on a Istick 50W an Istick 30W and my Segelei 100W and all read the same build as the same resistance.

none of those are dna40 mods.

 

[Podunk Steam]

We may find out soon enough. A member with a Vapor Shark has shown interest in a screw like I've made for mine so I spun him one off on the lathe.

 

[dr g]

We may find out soon enough. A member with a Vapor Shark has shown interest in a screw like I've made for mine so I spun him one off on the lathe.

It's a good solution and I suspect you may see a lot of interest

 

[Podunk Steam]

I can bust out a couple more if they're wanted. I haven't heard back from the gentleman yet so I don't know if he really wants it yet.

 

[Podunk Steam]

My packaging failed, round two.

Edit: Round two went out in the mail today and this one isn't slipping out of the envelope!

 

[MasteroftheVape]

Just figured out my temp control problem thanks to your screw idea. Temp mode worked intermittently on both my lemo when I got them and as a month ago stopped all together. My builds always read much higher resistance than coil actual, like a .15 bild would read .35... I just attributed it to lemo having high build resistance for whatever reason.

I took my 510 connection screw off the lemo and noticed a bit of carbon buildup on the screw, and a notably burned smell comming from the hole the screw goes. After cleaning the screw with some alcohol, I twisted some cotton and threaded it into the screw hole. When I pulled it out all kinds of metal shavings were in there, probably left over from the machining process. Some of these were charred pretty hard.

After I got it all cleaned out I put my screw/O-ring back in and tightened it down.

When I put the lemo back on my dna 40 it instantly registered .16 and temp mode works. This same coil read .39 before i cleaned those threads.

 

[Podunk Steam]

Eew! If there was a bunch of charred stuff in the screw hole it was likely arcing across to make the charred stuff, either that or they had the automated screw mill cranking the things out at break neck speed burning the metal up in the process. If the ohms start reading high again it may be a good idea to make a screw like I have.
I'm glad my post managed to help!

I may have a reply from the gentleman I sent the screw to although I haven't checked yet, I'll post back here again if it is a reply from him.

Edit: The screw just showed up in his mail yesterday and he has yet to try it. Time will tell.

 

[Podunk Steam]

Okay so here's the tail of the tape as some say.

Quote Originally Posted by Podunk Steam
If you have any questions on how to install the screw tightly don't be afraid to ask, oh here.
A wide rubber band can be cut down and sandwiched between the interior electrical contact points, this allows for easier installation being there is only the screw that has to be grasped with pliers and not the interior part which can be tricky. Tightening the base/510 section of the Lemo with the section of the rubber band sandwiched should hold the interior contact tight enough to grasp the head of the screw with flat jawed or flat jaw section of pliers to snug it into place.
Hope I'm not too late with this!]

Quote Originally Posted by jackmormon
Thanks Podunk! Perfect timing. It arrived yesterday. I am going to try it tonight and will use a piece of rubber band between the two inside connecting plates to hold the bottom one so I can tighten it. Looking forward to seeing how it will work.

Thanks!

Quote Originally Posted by Podunk Steam
Trying to kill me with suspense? LOL!

Quote Originally Posted by jackmormon
Suspense is good

Sorry I haven't got back to you -- I have been experimenting when time allows. The new pin installed with the rubber band piece DEFINITELY solved the jumpy resistance I was having. I left it for a day or so and decided to try the stock pin again leaving the coil and everything else the same. Back to jumpy resistance. I then decided to tighten down the stock pin with your rubber band trick and VOILA!! The stock pin works with a stable resistance tightened down this way. I guess I never had it fully tightened before. The rubber band trick is the golden ticket.

I sure appreciate your help on this. I still am not 100% on the nickel builds but am learning more. It is mostly about stable connectivity in the atty. The weird thing is I did kanthal rebuilding for two years and never had any issues. In two months of messing around with Nickel I have built far more nickel coils than I built Kanthal coils.

Thanks,

Hi Podunk,

Definitely pass it on! I was looking for a post where someone had linked other posts about adding an o-ring to the 510 pin and flipping the center post insulator so it extends a bit further and makes better contact with the bottom plate. I tried all that stuff but nothing got me stable until the magic rubber band! (I am using an o-ring from one of those mini screw drivers and my 510 is about flush with the outer 510 part. Without the o-ring it is recessed.)

I am sure other people are or will struggle with this and it is so simple now that you told me how to do it.

Really appreciate your help. It is always cool when a stranger offers to help you with something just because they are a nice person

Thanks for the reply JackMormon.

My stock pins are recessed when tightened completely which I feel is unsafe unless on a regulated mod with proper protection that is. I'd never go hybrid top cap on a mech mod with the Lemos for this reason.

Rubber bands are my friend and my partner knows this well, I'm the self proclaimed rubberbandman. Hehehe

Okay with you if I post your reply? Just pass on the rubberbandman magic you know.

So in the end it turns out the magical ability of the rubber band prevails once again. LOL! The Rubberbandmancan!