Dna 40 Tank?

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Pjump

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Hey so i've posted in a couple of places about a build i'm doing using a DNA 40 Chip, and i've seen a lot about using nickel wire for the temperature setting with these, So here's my question i'm currently using an MVP 20W with a Kanger Aerotank and a Genitank Giant with 80%vg 20%pg juices now i know to use the nickel wire i'd have to move over to an rba but I appreciate the ease of the tanks - i've seen that the Kanger Subtank has rba coils with it can i use nickel wire in these? or is there a better tank type i should go for?

PS I know many will say about dripping and other RBA Attys but for me and the way i chain vape a tank is the only sensible option i'm afraid.
 

jseah

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Yes, you can use nickel wire in the Subtank RBA. Vapor Shark also carried pre-made nickel wire coils (the packaging is blue and black) for the Kanger Subtank OCC, and the Nautilus and Atlantis BVC. They can be ordered directly from Vapor Shark and I have also seen B&M's starting to carry them as well.
 

Pjump

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I moved from high PG mixes because i'm sensitive to it (Sore throat) so when i made the move to high VG mixes i got the Aerotank and started getting far more vapour than before so i got the Genitank Giant so i could hold enough liquid to last a day or so, so now i'm looking for more vapour but due to issues with the thickness of the VG and the Kanger dualcoil heads ui'm quite oftenm getting dry hits or slight burning when i'm going at my happy voltage (around 5.1) so i'm looking for clouds of vapour that is warmer and wetter than the kanger tanks without the burning because of high viscosity,

I know i kinda want everything but more vape without burning is my high priority
 

itskohler

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The only way to get thick, warm vapor is with more airflow and high voltage. Dripping isn't all that much of a pain at all, and will satisfy you more than just about any tank on the market. But if you MUST do a tank, the Goblin, Silverplay, Goliath, Lemo, and a few others are about as close as you can get.
 

Completely Average

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Get a Squape R.

They're extremely easy to build on. By far the easiest RTA I've ever used. They hold 5.2ml of juice. They come with several swappable decks including the W (wide) deck that has extra wide juice channels for high VG juices. You'll have no problems with dry hits or burning, even with a 100% VG juice in this tank. The deck is non-conductive and there are guide grooves on it to lay the tool that your coil is wrapped into which means you always get the perfect alignment and perfect height off the airhole for your coil. No fiddling around with trying to balance the coil and tool above the deck while you try to secure the leads like a Kayfun/Lemo style RTA. They work great with nickle wire coils too.

Wicking is near impossible to get wrong. Feed your wick through the coil and along the alignment groove, trim so it's flush with the deck, fluff the ends, and that's it. No worrying about blocking the juice channels, no fiddling around with trying to lay the wick just right, no worrying that the chimney is going to pinch off or move the wick when you screw it on, it's super easy.

Plus you can remove the deck while the tank is full, and the tank is glass surrounded by a metal sheath. You fill it just like you fill the Aerotank or Nautilus. Like I said, it's by far the easiest RTA I've ever used, and I've got three Kayfuns that are now going to be boxed up and put in a closet because they seem absolutely primitive compared to the Squape R.


Here's an example...

Coil build on a Kayfun/Lemo/Similar RTA deck:
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And here is the Squape R:
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squape_1.500x0.jpg



And like I said, there are multiple decks that are easily swapped out. Just remove the top screws and pull the deck off and click a new one in. There is the standard deck which is best for thin juices, a C (curved) deck which is for longer wicks, a W (wide) deck for high VG juices, a D deck for dual coil builds that has two alignment grooves, a set of juice channels for each coil, and an air hole under each coil, and a B deck which works like a dripping atomizer where the wick sits in a pool of juice. The EHPro Squape R clone comes with the S, C, and W decks, and it only costs in the $35-$40 range.
 
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Completely Average

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Dripping isn't all that much of a pain at all.

I would love to see you try to drip while driving a 6 speed manual car in rush hour traffic.





EDIT: I also forgot to mention that the Squape R has adjustable airflow with a clicking ring with 9 different holes. Everything from a pinhole tight vape to wide open lung hits, and works equally as well with high ohm and subohm builds. There are people here running .15ohm nickle builds on it.
 
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Pjump

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Having looked at what's been said I've bought a fasttech squape r clone for $23.70 due to the size of the deck and price etc. Going to give that a go with nickel and occ first and maybe try again if its not for me. Still waiting for all my bits to come through to build the DNA 40 so probably going to be built by the time the squape arrives hopefully. As this is my first foray into rba's will still need to experiment of course. Do you still need to check ohms with the nickel builds since resistance increases with heat?
 

itskohler

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I would love to see you try to drip while driving a 6 speed manual car in rush hour traffic.
Come to Miami and you'll know the meaning of driving a stick and dripping in traffic. Do it on the daily!




EDIT: I also forgot to mention that the Squape R has adjustable airflow with a clicking ring with 9 different holes. Everything from a pinhole tight vape to wide open lung hits, and works equally as well with high ohm and subohm builds. There are people here running .15ohm nickle builds on it.
 

itskohler

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Having looked at what's been said I've bought a fasttech squape r clone for $23.70 due to the size of the deck and price etc. Going to give that a go with nickel and occ first and maybe try again if its not for me. Still waiting for all my bits to come through to build the DNA 40 so probably going to be built by the time the squape arrives hopefully. As this is my first foray into rba's will still need to experiment of course. Do you still need to check ohms with the nickel builds since resistance increases with heat?
Yes. the DNA40 wont fire anything below .1 in temp control mode. All of my builds come out to .1 on the nose.
 

Completely Average

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Having looked at what's been said I've bought a fasttech squape r clone for $23.70 due to the size of the deck and price etc. Going to give that a go with nickel and occ first and maybe try again if its not for me. Still waiting for all my bits to come through to build the DNA 40 so probably going to be built by the time the squape arrives hopefully. As this is my first foray into rba's will still need to experiment of course. Do you still need to check ohms with the nickel builds since resistance increases with heat?

If the Fasttech clone is as good as the EHPro you won't be disappointed.

Be sure to head over to this thread:

Official Squape R[eloaded] thread! | Page 5 | E-Cigarette Forum

There's a LOT of tips and good info on various builds, especially for the Wide deck, and a LOT of info on using nickle wire with it. Near the end there's a lot more info about the B deck which may also interest you.
 
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