DNA20 mod using the on-board buttons
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Not planning to use the on-board buttons in this case.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/388908-dna-charger-case-thickness.html#post8855794
I'm still looking for a source for the spring-loaded pins used to push the on-board buttons.
Just when I finalized a plan and was ready to start the build, dna 20D is out of stock 
BTW, I'm going to use 3/32" aluminum rivets (flat head) as actuators for the on-board buttons. They'll be pulled out thru some silicone tubing to provide some spring action and prevent rattling around. I might add a large button cap to the fire button if the 3/32" head isn't comfy.
BTW, I'm going to use 3/32" aluminum rivets (flat head) as actuators for the on-board buttons. They'll be pulled out thru some silicone tubing to provide some spring action and prevent rattling around. I might add a large button cap to the fire button if the 3/32" head isn't comfy.
Total failure. And I managed to damage the + onboard button. Now I know why there aren't more of these around: because it's a total pain, and the tiny onboard buttons for +/- are very fragile.
Plan B: use remote buttons like everybody else.
Plan B: use remote buttons like everybody else.
Good news is that it works, and it's tiny with a 1300mAh 20C cell. The bad is that I managed to damage the ribbon cable going to the OLED screen. It was a clean tear and I though I could solder back on, but no love. So I've got a perfectly working 20W VW mod with no screen.
. It happened right at the end, as I was stuffing the battery in to close the lid.
Does anybody have any ideas on reattaching the ribbon to the screen? or do you think Evolv would sell just the OLED screen? it seems it would be a lot easier to solder the larger pads on the PCB end of the ribbon cable.
. It happened right at the end, as I was stuffing the battery in to close the lid.Does anybody have any ideas on reattaching the ribbon to the screen? or do you think Evolv would sell just the OLED screen? it seems it would be a lot easier to solder the larger pads on the PCB end of the ribbon cable.
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Thanks, westy. Interesting, but far from ideal; and it's unlikely to work in my particular case, where the FFC cable peeled off at the very end from the glass display.
The torn end has exposed copper and it looked so clean, I initially thought there may be a ZIF or LIF connector on the glass, but there doesn't appear to be one. Of course the OLED display is buried inside the mod and nearly encased in high-strength epoxy, so chances of taking it out intact are slim to none.
The tear is located where the red arrow is in the attached image. The small section highlighted in blue looks like it peeled off and has exposed copper on the front side (the side with the buttons on the PCB).
Like I said before, it looks like I'm stuck with a "blind" VW device
The torn end has exposed copper and it looked so clean, I initially thought there may be a ZIF or LIF connector on the glass, but there doesn't appear to be one. Of course the OLED display is buried inside the mod and nearly encased in high-strength epoxy, so chances of taking it out intact are slim to none.
The tear is located where the red arrow is in the attached image. The small section highlighted in blue looks like it peeled off and has exposed copper on the front side (the side with the buttons on the PCB).
Like I said before, it looks like I'm stuck with a "blind" VW device
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Good news is that it works, and it's tiny with a 1300mAh 20C cell. The bad is that I managed to damage the ribbon cable going to the OLED screen. It was a clean tear and I though I could solder back on, but no love. So I've got a perfectly working 20W VW mod with no screen.
Does anybody have any ideas on reattaching the ribbon to the screen? or do you think Evolv would sell just the OLED screen? it seems it would be a lot easier to solder the larger pads on the PCB end of the ribbon cable.
I have experience with a blind DNA20. When I talked to Evolv about a month ago they weren't selling just the screen, but they may work out something with you.
I haven't found a place to buy a single screen, they have all be 10 piece lots. A web search for "0.69 inch 96x16 OLED" brings up a lot of possibilities but blue screens seem to be hard to get.
Some are reinforcing the area where yours broke with epoxy.
All of the 96x16 OLED displays I can find on the web use a 14-pin interface, which is obviously incompatible with the 8-pin interface on the DNA 20.
Could I get a link as to where I can buy the chip? I've searched, but to no avail
Sent from my my phone using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my my phone using Tapatalk 2
8 pin 0.69 inch blue 96x16 OLED - lot of 10
0.69 inch blue 96x16 OLED panel OLED screen OLED wholesales ,FYStore.com
*Edit - I'll take two as a finder fee
0.69 inch blue 96x16 OLED panel OLED screen OLED wholesales ,FYStore.com
*Edit - I'll take two as a finder fee
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Just make sure you're extra careful with that ribbon cable when you build your mod
@bapgood
Thanks for the link. I should rephrase my previous statement in that I could not find the 8-pin displays from a tractable source, as in one that does not have a minimum order of 100 pieces
JI could not find the 8-pin displays from a tractable source, as in one that does not have a minimum order of 100 pieces
Yeah me either
Just make sure you're extra careful with that ribbon cable when you build your mod
Hi guys, I'm very new to modding. but I read a very helpful tip about the dna20d and it's fragile ribbon cable. Drop a small drop of super glue between the ribbon cable and the board itself and it'l help take the stress of the solder joints.
After talking to Brandon at Evolv, I decided the best course is to gut the mod and send the board back for repairs.
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