DNA40 constantly needs battery pulled?

[Insomaniac10]

Hi all,

I'll start by saying that I'm only on my third day with my new VaporShark rDNA40. I'm coming from a DNA20 mod using a ProTank 2, and I've been out of the rebuilding game for well over a year. Nonetheless, I've found my rhythm again and have been building some very nice coils with NI200 and japanese cotton.

So before i explain my issue, here is my what I'm running now:

VaporShark rDNA40
Dark Horse rda clone
32ga NI200
Japanese Cotton
Currently set to 420 degrees, usually around 17-20watts, .39ohms

The problem I have been having is that whenever I seem to go a certain amount of time without taking a pull (let's call it 10min), the next time I go to hit, my DNA40 wattage will jump around like crazy, and my vape will feel noticeably weak. However, without dripping or pushing any buttons, I will then pull the battery and put it back in, and it will fire great again with nice crackle-pops and it will stick to the wattage that I have specified.

I cannot seem to pinpoint exactly what is happening. My connections are all solid (thank you spring-loaded 510!), and my coils are nice and spaced and not touching anything (single coil). I'm really hoping this isn't a problem with the chip, but if I'm truly doing everything correctly as I think I am, it's difficult for me to believe that it ISN'T the chip.

Anyone have any advice? Has anyone else reported this issue? TIA!

 

[Thrasher]

Dont know about this mod but the dna chip being fussy about certain batteries is certainly not unheard of

 

[Insomaniac10]

Dont know about this mod but the dna chip being fussy about certain batteries is certainly not unheard of

Yeah i obviously did some googling and saw scrambled screen issues, or locking issues, but I couldnt find anything about it needing to constantly be reset like this. And I'm using the battery VaporShark sent along with it. Very odd, and frustrating.

 

[Thrasher]

Yeah i obviously did some googling and saw scrambled screen issues, or locking issues, but I couldnt find anything about it needing to constantly be reset like this. And I'm using the battery VaporShark sent along with it. Very odd, and frustrating.

The very best thing to do is check with them while its still new not sayin ask for a refund just let them know, the dna is a great chip but they do run into a bad batch once in a while. There usually pretty good with hookin ya up for known problems or they may even have a simple answer already.


Come to think of it i did have a dna 20 actin wonky i had to get a better spring for once......

 

[RCHagy74]

Somewhere in my sleep cloaked brain is something useful... cannot find it.

I have these though:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...sion/612272-official-dna-40-introduction.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/variable-voltage-apv-discussion/583070-vaporshark-rdna.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/coil-builds/613433-dna-40-nr-nickel-builds.html

Lots of info... almost to much.

 

[Insomaniac10]

I'm going to call VaporShark today. I will report back with what they say, in case anyone with a similar issue sees this thread.

 

[Technonut]

I've watched reviews, and read here, that RDA's using through the post connections can cause connection issues with the DNA 40 in temp-mode. It's better to trap the wire under the screw heads if possible.

 

[Insomaniac10]

I've watched reviews, and read here, that RDA's using through the post connections can cause connection issues with the DNA 40 in temp-mode. It's better to trap the wire under the screw heads if possible.

This is a good suggestion, and I actually tried to do this last night, but nickel is so tender that everytime I tried, one of my legs snapped. I guess it couldn't handle the torque of being tightened twice. Next time I build I will try again, guess it's going to take more practice.

With all of that said, do you really think that a loose connection would cause my symptoms? As long as I vape continuously (no more than 5 minutes between each rip), everything works perfectly. The problem seems to occur when my device has been idle for a short period of time - I haven't checked but I'm going to assume that it is when the DNA40 goes into sleep mode.

I would imagine that a loose connection would lead to several other symptoms.

 

[Technonut]

This is a good suggestion, and I actually tried to do this last night, but nickel is so tender that everytime I tried, one of my legs snapped. I guess it couldn't handle the torque of being tightened twice. Next time I build I will try again, guess it's going to take more practice.

With all of that said, do you really think that a loose connection would cause my symptoms? As long as I vape continuously (no more than 5 minutes between each rip), everything works perfectly. The problem seems to occur when my device has been idle for a short period of time - I haven't checked but I'm going to assume that it is when the DNA40 goes into sleep mode.

I would imagine that a loose connection would lead to several other symptoms.

I have read of connection issues causing a few different problems with the DNA 40. Actually, I'm pretty sure that I read a couple of posts with the same jumping around after set down, like you mentioned.. I'm pretty sure it was due to the wires not making a solid connection.. It's something to try..

 

[Spirometry]

Loose connection would definitely cause your symptoms. You might want to also try 28 ga or twisted 30 and see if you have better luck with it.

Another thing that will cause your symptoms is wireless charging.

 

[Genghis]

I agree with the above posters. Try 28 gauge trapped under the screw first before deciding it's defective. I tried using the post holes on my first coil and it was a very weak, underpowered vape. 2nd build under the screws worked much better and it hasn't changed all day. I'm using 28GA. I haven't tried any other gauges.

 

[RandyF]

Click the link in my signature, it has some basic information gathered from the multiple DNA40 threads. You issues are almost definitely build related and not because of a faulty board.

 

[Insomaniac10]

Click the link in my signature, it has some basic information gathered from the multiple DNA40 threads. You issues are almost definitely build related and not because of a faulty board.

I actually saw your post before buying my vaporshark. very informative. I'm assuming that you believe #1 and/or #5 will point me in the right direction.

I will try wrapping my wire underneath the screw head again tonight when I get home. Would anyone be able to explain to me that if I in fact have a loose connection, how would pulling/replacing the battery fix that? I'm having a tough time understanding that. I hate to repeat myself, but if I continuously use my mod without letting it sit idle for more than 5 min or so, I do not experience any issues...but with a true loose connection, you would think that wouldn't be the case, and that I would experience issues whether or not my mod went idle.

I'm not challenging, I'm just trying to understand.

 

[rolygate]

Also there may be some issues with coil metal type, and coil turns touching, with temperature control systems. Right now they are a little bit sensitive to coil issues (or flaky if you prefer). They don't use a temperature probe, they use variations on coil resistance under load to provide the feedback required for power control.

 

[RandyF]

Pulling the battery will force the DNA40 to get a new reading. If you do this while the coil is still warm, you will get a higher reading than you should, which is most likely the case here. While the coil is being used with this higher reading your temp protection is way off, meaning the board thinks it is a much higher resistance that it actually is. Once you let it sit, and the coil cools, the board starts to get the actual coil resistance. Now, with a resistance reading closer to where it is suppose to be, you are going to start to have problems because TP will be kicking in when it is suppose to.

The coil must be at the same resting temp as the device for the initial reading to be correct. If you get it right the first time, the reading will not fluctuate more than +/- .01 as the board refines the reading.

 

[Insomaniac10]

Edit: nevermind

 

[Insomaniac10]

Should it be displaying voltage, even though it is in temp mode? I know the temp mode is working because i'll get "temperature protected" if I fire for long enough. Not firing, it will read "0.00 V", and when firing it will jump around as the mod does it's thing. It is displaying temperature and voltage at the same time, constantly. Is this normal?

 

[Woofer]

The two line display shows volts when not it TL mode.
The three line displays temperature and voltage at the same time, constantly, it is normal in TL mode.

Based on your description of the behaviour, I think you have a iffy connection somewhere.

 

[RandyF]

Should it be displaying voltage, even though it is in temp mode? I know the temp mode is working because i'll get "temperature protected" if I fire for long enough. Not firing, it will read "0.00 V", and when firing it will jump around as the mod does it's thing. It is displaying temperature and voltage at the same time, constantly. Is this normal?

Falling out of TP mode and into voltage mode is another sure sign you have a connection issue. When you said you were using 32g kanthal in the beginning, it made me cringe. Nickel is very soft to begin with, 32g is very similar to thread. I commend you for even being able to connect it and wick it in the first place, but honestly, there is very little chance you have a solid connection. If it was tightened properly, you would have easily snapped the leads. Without being twisted, 28g is the thinnest wire I would even consider using. 30g is doable, but it will likely lead to more frustration than enjoyment.

Edit: If you want to salvage your 32g nickel, I would take 3 straightened strands and twist them together. Here is a video from RiP explaining the process. He isn't using nickel, but the technique is the same, minus the torching.

 

[Insomaniac10]

Falling out of TP mode and into voltage mode is another sure sign you have a connection issue. When you said you were using 32g kanthal in the beginning, it made me cringe. Nickel is very soft to begin with, 32g is very similar to thread. I commend you for even being able to connect it and wick it in the first place, but honestly, there is very little chance you have a solid connection. If it was tightened properly, you would have easily snapped the leads. Without being twisted, 28g is the thinnest wire I would even consider using. 30g is doable, but it will likely lead to more frustration than enjoyment.

Edit: If you want to salvage your 32g nickel, I would take 3 straightened strands and twist them together. Here is a video from RiP explaining the process. He isn't using nickel, but the technique is the same, minus the torching.

UPDATE

So I just built a new coil. Came out to .34ohms. I stuck the leads through the posts, and then wrapped them up and around the screw heads. It is about as solid and tight as I could possibly make it.

I think you are right about using the 32g nickel, but it's all I have to work with right now. I did snap a lead on my first attempt, but the one I'm running now seems in tact. I still have to pull my battery and replace it if I don't want the wattage to jump around, but it only solves the problem for a matter of minutes, if that. However, with this new coil, it seems like a more steady vape, even when then wattage is jumping.

I'm going to roll with the punches for now until I get a lower gauge. (the reason I wanted to get a higher gauge was to avoid having to use more wraps - I like using less wraps because it is easier to manipulate the coil, while also staying neatly in between the post holes) So like I said, I've been running this coil now for 10min and I am getting better results, even after leaving my mod idle for a couple of minutes. Maybe the wattage jumping around isn't affecting it as much as I initially thought, even though it does seem like odd behavior. 420 degrees, .34ohms, 15watts does not seem like an unreasonable request - I wouldn't think that the temperature control would need to work that hard. That said, I know that there are many external variables that affect temperature - lik ehow wet the coil is and how hard I draw.

Thanks for everyone's advice. Hopefully this new coil keeps putting in good work. The beautiful thing about temperature control is that, in theory, I just easily be able to run this coil until I get new wire.