DNA40 constantly needs battery pulled?

[puffon]

UPDATE

So I just built a new coil. Came out to .34ohms. I stuck the leads through the posts, and then wrapped them up and around the screw heads. It is about as solid and tight as I could possibly make it.

I think you are right about using the 32g nickel, but it's all I have to work with right now. I did snap a lead on my first attempt, but the one I'm running now seems in tact. I still have to pull my battery and replace it if I don't want the wattage to jump around, but it only solves the problem for a matter of minutes, if that. However, with this new coil, it seems like a more steady vape, even when then wattage is jumping.

I'm going to roll with the punches for now until I get a lower gauge. (the reason I wanted to get a higher gauge was to avoid having to use more wraps - I like using less wraps because it is easier to manipulate the coil, while also staying neatly in between the post holes) So like I said, I've been running this coil now for 10min and I am getting better results, even after leaving my mod idle for a couple of minutes. Maybe the wattage jumping around isn't affecting it as much as I initially thought, even though it does seem like odd behavior. 420 degrees, .34ohms, 15watts does not seem like an unreasonable request - I wouldn't think that the temperature control would need to work that hard. That said, I know that there are many external variables that affect temperature - lik ehow wet the coil is and how hard I draw.

Thanks for everyone's advice. Hopefully this new coil keeps putting in good work. The beautiful thing about temperature control is that, in theory, I just easily be able to run this coil until I get new wire.

Try a 2 or 3 strand twisted, 3mm, spaced, with that 32ga.
Shoot for around .15 ohm

 

[dr g]

pulling a battery is never a thing to do or a useful troubleshooting procedure on any dna40.

Also there may be some issues with coil metal type, and coil turns touching, with temperature control systems. Right now they are a little bit sensitive to coil issues (or flaky if you prefer). They don't use a temperature probe, they use variations on coil resistance under load to provide the feedback required for power control.

exactly what do you think temperature probes do?

 

[Topwater Elvis]

There are many reports of flaky evolve dna 40 chips, contact who you bought it from and get it replaced.
Why monkey around with a new device (3 days old) that doesn't function correctly.

 

[dr g]

There are many reports of flaky evolve dna 40 chips, contact who you bought it from and get it replaced.
Why monkey around with a new device (3 days old) that doesn't function correctly.

Because there's a very high probability it's user error. This is bad advice.

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

UPDATE

So I just built a new coil. Came out to .34ohms. I stuck the leads through the posts, and then wrapped them up and around the screw heads. It is about as solid and tight as I could possibly make it.

I think you are right about using the 32g nickel, but it's all I have to work with right now. I did snap a lead on my first attempt, but the one I'm running now seems in tact. I still have to pull my battery and replace it if I don't want the wattage to jump around, but it only solves the problem for a matter of minutes, if that. However, with this new coil, it seems like a more steady vape, even when then wattage is jumping.

I'm going to roll with the punches for now until I get a lower gauge. (the reason I wanted to get a higher gauge was to avoid having to use more wraps - I like using less wraps because it is easier to manipulate the coil, while also staying neatly in between the post holes) So like I said, I've been running this coil now for 10min and I am getting better results, even after leaving my mod idle for a couple of minutes. Maybe the wattage jumping around isn't affecting it as much as I initially thought, even though it does seem like odd behavior. 420 degrees, .34ohms, 15watts does not seem like an unreasonable request - I wouldn't think that the temperature control would need to work that hard. That said, I know that there are many external variables that affect temperature - lik ehow wet the coil is and how hard I draw.

Thanks for everyone's advice. Hopefully this new coil keeps putting in good work. The beautiful thing about temperature control is that, in theory, I just easily be able to run this coil until I get new wire.

So is it staying in Temp mode now (ie displaying the temp instead of voltage)?

I'm semi confused when you say 'wattage fluctuations', do you mean 'resistance (ohms) fluctuation'? Because in temp mode the DNA40 will always be varying the wattage constantly to maintain the set temp (ie it will hit it with 40 watts out of the gate then modulate itself to maintain temp, if its TPing on ya it can push all the way down to 1watt etc).

I agree that 32g is pretty small but im able to work with 30g without much trouble (though i do work harden it a bit).

As others have mentioned if it is a board issue (hopefully not) Vaporshark/Evolv will take care of ya.

Best of luck!

 

[RandyF]

There are many reports of flaky evolve dna 40 chips, contact who you bought it from and get it replaced.
Why monkey around with a new device (3 days old) that doesn't function correctly.

Please link these "flaky" reports you speak of. Evolv is having issues with the screen scrambling, which does not affect functionality, there have been no other issues I have seen and I have followed, and owned, a DNA40 since release. Her problems are build related, there is no reason for her to return a device that is working correctly.

 

[classwife]

Moved to Temperature Control from General Vaping Discussion