Alloy or Standard of Purity/Grade. I'm really Comfortable with either for the Contents of this Thread.
And either Description of the Wire on a Spool doesn't Detract from what the Wire Does.
Do you need temp control
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Alloy or Standard of Purity/Grade. I'm really Comfortable with either for the Contents of this Thread.
And either Description of the Wire on a Spool doesn't Detract from what the Wire Does.
if you vape on low watts i dont believe temp control is as useful to you than people who like to vape higher watts. (my opninion), The benefits of temp control for higher watts I have found is that it get rids of rampup time, and we can vape at a constant temp taking long drags without the vapor turning uncomfortably hot. If you vape on low wattage and take long drags, I believe you will find it more pleasing to vape higher (eg: shy away from 'tootlepuffing'), because the vapor is now temp controlled, you can up the wattage and set your degrees to a temperature you are comfortable vaping at - the wattage will just shorten the rampup time immensely. Therefore comparing high wattage vaping to low wattage vaping (tootlepuffing) is kind of pointless when it comes to temp control mode - its more of a low temp vaping or high temp vaping comparison. The lower the temp you set it at the cooler the vape, the higher the temp the hotter the vape - wattage only makes 'rampup time' getting to that set temperature shorter or longer.
IF you feel confident it wont burn your house down, sure, if it sucks you're only out $30
Heck... I'm not sure if I bought an iStick50 it would burn My House down? But then Again, I'm not sure that Any Mod I have Wouldn't?
Don't Really need another TC Mod. Or even another Mod Period. But it bugs me that My RTA's hang over the Edge of my iStick20's And TC is TC.
One think I like TC for is when I use a OCC Head. I don't get Many Dry Hits from a RTA with an RBA Section. But OCC Heads have been Know for a Dry Hit once and Awhile. And it Always seems to happen when I have just left Home.
As long as you're not planning on leaving it in a hot car, I'd say go for it, and if you end up not liking the device, I'm sure you could find someone that needs an upgrade and you'll make them very happy and all for just $30
As long as you're not planning on leaving it in a hot car, I'd say go for it, and if you end up not liking the device, I'm sure you could find someone that needs an upgrade and you'll make them very happy and all for just $30
I don't even like leaving my Notebook or Cell Phone in a Hot Car. And I would say that More Notebooks and or Cell Phones have Caught Fire than iStick50's.
But I am Too Lazy to Look that Statistic Up. So take that with a Grain of NaCl.
Tootle puffers rarely get dry hits and if they do they are just bad tasting not cough your lungs out bad.
I don't need it at all. I got the new Evic VT and used it for a while. It is awesome no doubt. However, I love all my other mods and it's just not important enough for me to swap nickel coils or dedicate tanks to temp control. If it worked with kanthal it'd be a different story.
yeah thats another thing i found, i cant really build my clapton coils or nice thick wire with nickel coils, im just not all into 12+ wrapped high gauge nickel wire.
Yep. Plus I burn through way more juice. Just not worth it at all for me. I never get dri hits anyway running subtanks around 15-20 watts. It is a great feature that I'm sure it's awesome for others.
If I needed a mod I'd take the gamble. My istick 30 and 50 have been perfect.
While it's technically a sub-ohm setup, I believe temperature control has little in common with "normal" low-resistance setups. The low resistance is mainly a question of practicalities, if I'm not entirely mistaken. As in, you need a certain spread in resistance in a given temperature range. The more the wire resistance is affected by temperature, the more precisely the end result can be calculated/controlled. Hence the use of wire with different properties than our Kanthal. Wire that just happen to have a much lower resistance/mass than Kanthal. How big clouds a cloudchucker chucks is still up the the chucker.
I mentor a couple of newbie vapers. I say the next regulated mod you get should include temp control because there almost no premium to pay for it but you don't have to start using it right away.
I'm brand new to TC. I got a Kangxin mini a few days ago. I did three nickel builds on three dripper clones with zero problems (tugboat v2, titanium Achilles, Derringer). I have the mod set to 500 F and 35 watts and like what I'm getting a lot for mouth to lung inhales. (my kanthal builds are 1-2 ohms at 20 watts) Today I switched between all three drippers all day at work without a hitch. It appears to me the Kangxin mini is working flawlessly in temp mode. May be the flavor I get from Kanthal is slightly better but may be it's only different. The vapor quality from temp control is different and I like it. I hope I find reasons to switch between kanthal and nickel and I don't get stuck on one or the other. A mech mod has been on my road map for a while and keeps getting pushed back.
I'm brand new to TC. I got a Kangxin mini a few days ago. I did three nickel builds on three dripper clones with zero problems (tugboat v2, titanium Achilles, Derringer). I have the mod set to 500 F and 35 watts and like what I'm getting a lot for mouth to lung inhales. (my kanthal builds are 1-2 ohms at 20 watts) Today I switched between all three drippers all day at work without a hitch. It appears to me the Kangxin mini is working flawlessly in temp mode. May be the flavor I get from Kanthal is slightly better but may be it's only different. The vapor quality from temp control is different and I like it. I hope I find reasons to switch between kanthal and nickel and I don't get stuck on one or the other. A mech mod has been on my road map for a while and keeps getting pushed back.
I have no idea. Considering it's just another wick and wire, I assume one could tinker ones way there. I think of TC as something capping the upper end of the temperature scale - not much else.
While I don't know the particulars about wire mass and such with Ni200 or titanium builds, I assume you could get a vape very much resembling your current 10 watts. If it uses exactly 10 watts for the entirety of a click-cycle - I wouldn't know. Maybe more for the initial heat-up. Maybe less to keep it going if the wire has less mass than your current Kanthal builds. Or maybe you need more or less than 10 watts to get the same result with this different wire. I'm sure someone who actually knows something can give better info than me who is merely speculating.
Some good stuff so far in this thread I recently jumped into TC vaping, I'll try to add to the thread....
I now have 3 mods which can output +40W or more, two of which have the TC feature. The three tank types I have for these mods are: Lemo2, STM and Atlantis2. (I have TC coils for my army of Nautilus tanks but I'll get to those in a minute)
I believe I could build a >1ohm coil for the Lemo2 and purchase non-TC coils for the STM and Atlantis2. While I've never tried the 1.2ohm coils that came with the STM and Atlantis2 I suppose its all about surface area of the coil and Ohms law along with the power to fire them. While all three tanks could be used in a non-sub-ohm manor they all can be used with sub-ohm builds and with TC builds/coils.
So in a purely VV/VW usage the advantage all three of these tanks have even in a non-sub-ohm application is the amount of air flow. All three have order of magnitude or more air flow then my Nautilus tanks. While I can get decent vapor out of my Nautilus tanks outfitted with TC coils the limiting factors are the air flow, size of the coil and wicking ability of the TC coils. I may not need to worry about dry hits or burning the wick on my TC enabled Nautilus coils however without the air flow they just can't match the satisfying lung hit of a lemo2/stm or Atlantis2 tank.
It almost seems counter-intuitive that if larger coils have more surface area and hence could produce more vapor at the same ohms you'd think that everyone would be striving to get the highest ohms they can. The counter is that ultimately HEAT is what vaporizes our juices and lower resistance coils get hotter and get there much faster with the same 50W of power than higher resistance coils do.
In VV/VW a coil will keep getting hotter as long as you have more power being pushed into it then the cooling ability of your wick, juice and air flow. "dry hits" and singed or burnt wick is the end result of many things in vaping. Overpower the wicking+cooling ability of your system and your bound to toast some wick+coils.
This is where TC comes in. IMHO it provides a better vaping experience. Once up to the set temperature (with enough power) the MOD will regulate the power (different mods do it in different ways) to maintain the set temperature so your inhale won't go from cool to hot, it will be whatever temperature you set it at as long as the fire button is pressed and the draw/hit/drag timeout timer has not been reached.
The Lemo2 (0.22ohm TC coil) I have loaded with 95% VG, 9mg at 25joules, 280F and the air duct 1/2 closed. From my limited experience each draw/hit/drag will be the same experience until the tank runs dry.
Do any of us really NEED TC? Of course not. However I do like NOT having to buy or build coils just because my wick ran dry and I DO like having a more consistent vaping experience.
YMMV.
I now have 3 mods which can output +40W or more, two of which have the TC feature. The three tank types I have for these mods are: Lemo2, STM and Atlantis2. (I have TC coils for my army of Nautilus tanks but I'll get to those in a minute)
I believe I could build a >1ohm coil for the Lemo2 and purchase non-TC coils for the STM and Atlantis2. While I've never tried the 1.2ohm coils that came with the STM and Atlantis2 I suppose its all about surface area of the coil and Ohms law along with the power to fire them. While all three tanks could be used in a non-sub-ohm manor they all can be used with sub-ohm builds and with TC builds/coils.
So in a purely VV/VW usage the advantage all three of these tanks have even in a non-sub-ohm application is the amount of air flow. All three have order of magnitude or more air flow then my Nautilus tanks. While I can get decent vapor out of my Nautilus tanks outfitted with TC coils the limiting factors are the air flow, size of the coil and wicking ability of the TC coils. I may not need to worry about dry hits or burning the wick on my TC enabled Nautilus coils however without the air flow they just can't match the satisfying lung hit of a lemo2/stm or Atlantis2 tank.
It almost seems counter-intuitive that if larger coils have more surface area and hence could produce more vapor at the same ohms you'd think that everyone would be striving to get the highest ohms they can. The counter is that ultimately HEAT is what vaporizes our juices and lower resistance coils get hotter and get there much faster with the same 50W of power than higher resistance coils do.
In VV/VW a coil will keep getting hotter as long as you have more power being pushed into it then the cooling ability of your wick, juice and air flow. "dry hits" and singed or burnt wick is the end result of many things in vaping. Overpower the wicking+cooling ability of your system and your bound to toast some wick+coils.
This is where TC comes in. IMHO it provides a better vaping experience. Once up to the set temperature (with enough power) the MOD will regulate the power (different mods do it in different ways) to maintain the set temperature so your inhale won't go from cool to hot, it will be whatever temperature you set it at as long as the fire button is pressed and the draw/hit/drag timeout timer has not been reached.
The Lemo2 (0.22ohm TC coil) I have loaded with 95% VG, 9mg at 25joules, 280F and the air duct 1/2 closed. From my limited experience each draw/hit/drag will be the same experience until the tank runs dry.
Do any of us really NEED TC? Of course not. However I do like NOT having to buy or build coils just because my wick ran dry and I DO like having a more consistent vaping experience.
YMMV.
I don't think there has been much research at all into tootle puffing with Temp Control. 30+ watts only is what I have seen on ALL reviews and such.
Don't think I could fit a workable nickle coil into an Evod coil chamber.
Don't think I could fit a workable nickle coil into an Evod coil chamber.
If one wanted to 'tootle puff' on a TC device, due to nature of how it works, its not about the wattage settings, but rather the temp settings, imo.
The wattage setting can be viewed like a throttle on how fast you get to your set temp.
Set it to 5 watts and it will get to the set temp (theoretically) eventually then still likely hover right around 5 watts (since this is very little power). If you set it to 40 watts its going to get to the set temp very quickly and then throttle the wattage way down (normally/depending on set-up) to maintain that set temp.
So a tootle puffer would likely be vaping at, say, 380f @ 20w, that setting on my RDAs fires at the initial 20w then drops down and hovers in the 10-12w range to maintain temp, gives acceptable vapor, though it is semi-cool for my tastes.
Normally, my daily set-up is a .15Ni coil at 440f @ 27.5w. So i would be outside the 'tootle puffer' zone, but i'm most certainly not m2l'ing massive clouds either. Rarely exceed 2.5-3ml a day.
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