RDA Does a dual coil nickel build in an RDA satisfy you?

[johnlikestovape]

I have a Vaporshark rDNA40 and when using a nickel build in my Kanger Subtank Mini, it's awesome! .16 ohms, 460 degrees at 40 watts is great. Even a single .16 ohm coil in a dripper works pretty decently!

However, in my experience, whenever I throw a dual coil nickel build in a dripper, the vape is never as satisfying as the nickel build in the Subtank. In my last attempt, I think I had a .11 ohm dual coil (28 awg) at 460 degrees at 40 watts, but the warmth just wasn't there and the vapor production was definitely sub par.

Anyone else with this experience? If not, what are your guys' builds and settings for dual coils and temp control? Do you think we just need more watts? Just curious if anyone has been able to do a dual coil nickel build that was satisfying to them.

 

[tj99959]

That's because your chip set is only delivering 20 watts to each coil for your total of 40 watts, so your temp never gets to the 460 degrees that you want..

 

[Ryedan]

I haven't tried a dual coil Ni build on my DNA40. I ran the numbers in Steam Engine and it didn't look like it would vape well. At 40 watts the heat flux of 107 is way too low for me at and the heat capacity of 61 is way too high. It looked like a cold vape with little vapor production and a lot of heat up time. To make this work I think more power or lower ohms with the 28 gauge wire, or thinner wire would be the way to go, but I haven't tried it.

I do like a single coil at 0.12 ohms with a heat flux of 392 and heat capacity of 33. With a clean coil I start at about 35 watts and I have room to increase the power as the coil gunks up.

For dual coils I use titanium wire at around 0.15 ohms. You have to set the temperature way lower with Ti but once you get that figured out it works very well.

My temperature settings vary depending on the build but it's always set higher than where TP kicks in with a wet wick. I find I get a more consistent vape that way but still avoid burnt hits if something goes wrong.

 

[johnlikestovape]

That's because your chip set is only delivering 20 watts to each coil for your total of 40 watts, so your temp never gets to the 460 degrees that you want..

Ohhhh of course! Never thought of it that way, but that definitely

 

[johnlikestovape]

I haven't tried a dual coil Ni build on my DNA40. I ran the numbers in Steam Engine and it didn't look like it would vape well. At 40 watts the heat flux of 107 is way too low for me at and the heat capacity of 61 is way too high. It looked like a cold vape with little vapor production and a lot of heat up time. To make this work I think more power or lower ohms with the 28 gauge wire, or thinner wire would be the way to go, but I haven't tried it.

I do like a single coil at 0.12 ohms with a heat flux of 392 and heat capacity of 33. With a clean coil I start at about 35 watts and I have room to increase the power as the coil gunks up.

For dual coils I use titanium wire at around 0.15 ohms. You have to set the temperature way lower with Ti but once you get that figured out it works very well.

My temperature settings vary depending on the build but it's always set higher than where TP kicks in with a wet wick. I find I get a more consistent vape that way but still avoid burnt hits if something goes wrong.

Thanks for letting me know why, lol. I usually do a single coil of 11 wraps of 28 awg nickel in my subtank, so that explains why it works so well for me--very warm. I don't have any Ti wire, but it sounds like Ti wire would work well for me using dual coils in a dripper. Thanks man, I appreciate it!