length looks fine but if its on a mech it might take to long to heat up but compressing it might help that, with the TOBH its hand to get a good center build for airflow with the tabs but that looks pretty good. I would put it on your mod and heat it up, let off the switch, then compress the coils lightly with some tweezers. repeat that a few times.
tear off what you need, roll the end small and tight (so you can get the thread started easier), then roll the rest a little bit but not to much, you want it fluffy enough that the juice can flow, and pull it through so it is snug but not tight. you dont want t to move the coil when you pull on it
sleeper builds are hard. I didnt notice much of a difference on the ones that I did just look longer and made me angry. manly the are used for super sub ohm with low gauge wire because you cant fit 2 or 4 wires through the post holes
tear off what you need, roll the end small and tight (so you can get the thread started easier), then roll the rest a little bit but not to much, you want it fluffy enough that the juice can flow, and pull it through so it is snug but not tight. you dont want t to move the coil when you pull on it
sleeper builds are hard. I didnt notice much of a difference on the ones that I did just look longer and made me angry. manly the are used for super sub ohm with low gauge wire because you cant fit 2 or 4 wires through the post holes
Have done some dragon builds, but most of mine went Vertical, and most of me horizontal built rba's aren't dragon capable.
With tank systems one deals with both densities through, under or around the coils and the density of the wick through the wick port, or on juice deck....... wicking issues can occur from either or both. It's all about supply and demand
