Dremmel-carved bottom feeding wooden box mod w/ Evolv DNA

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Geiseric

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I have been working on it for the past week, and its finally pretty much done. I carved it out of two 70 cent plaques from Michael's that looked like this:
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I took the bottle, needle, and the center post out of a Boge rev2, and to make the thread and drip well I used an old ego head, drilled it out to fit the center post, cut a thread cover in half and threaded it on to form the drip well, then made it more shallow with a folded in half cutting from a carto sleeve.
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Unfortunately, as you can see above, there are two issues, its a bit ugly on top, and the right side does not close entirely. Looking at the image below, you can see how I close it:
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It is motherboard posts cut into a nut and a fat washer, one on the front and one towards the bottom. I do not have room for a third in the back, which is why I have a problem closing. I just put a pin in to center the case, but that does not hold it closed, which is an issue.

Additionally, there is definitely an issue with the pot, and maybe the wiring. I can't get a low power draw off it, at minimal, it seems like it is pushing around 6 watts, maybe 7. I think I'm getting around 11 watts max with a 2.4 ohm atty. I'll need to put some higher resistance atties on it and see what happens. I wish I had a way to check voltage and power under load, but I'm not sure how I could and I think without load, the resistance detection on the dna makes it impossible for me to check, because I get all kinds of weird numbers. It could also just be my crap meter, It reads +0.3 ohms for any resistance and I'm pretty sure that is just the beginning of its issues, its just the one thing wrong with it that I have figured out.

Oh, the wiring is all 22 gauge and I made the battery contacts with random office supplies. That may also be leading to issues. It does vape well though, and the drip well works perfectly. I hate the pot on it, but I already made a spot for it and redoing the whole case is a frightening prospect. I've driven my fiance insane for the last week with the constant dremel squealing.
 

Geiseric

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Thanks. After looking it over, I think I'm going to need to find a smaller version of the same system I used to lock it on the right side. I also after much searching found a thicker thumbwheel pot that is not stereo, so that should resolve some of the issues. I read that the current one has ratings all over the place. I couldn't even get any reading on it, the board quality on it is crap and the contacts wiggle a lot. hopefully the slightly larger pot will de-ugly the top a little. I think after I do that, I'll sand it down more and stain/varnish it again to cover up the last of the blemishes. Can't cover that nick on the side, though. I sanded it down too far when I was polishing it and luckily noticed that it was thin before I broke through. I put some epoxy on the inside to strengthen that spot, but it bled through and stained it black. I'm thinking a darker stain on the case may resolve the issue. Mahogany would be nice, I think. I may also sand down the right of the bottle port, its a bit uneven.
 

WillyB

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I wish I had a way to check voltage and power under load, but I'm not sure how I could and I think without load, the resistance detection on the dna makes it impossible for me to check, because I get all kinds of weird numbers. It could also just be my crap meter, It reads +0.3 ohms for any resistance and I'm pretty sure that is just the beginning of its issues, its just the one thing wrong with it that I have figured out.
There is no reason to worry about 'without load'. You just need to check the ohms of your atty and then your volts under load. The watts you will calculate.

Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator

To check your volts place one probe on the outbound side of your fire switch and the other to the shell of the atty connector and hit the fire switch.

Get a cheap meter, we don't need fancy.

US seller free shipping.

Delcast Handheld Digital Multimeter DTL-01A | eBay

Check the volts at DCV 20 and Ω at 200. Do touch the probes together for ohms and subtract any reading you get at rest, from the actual atty test.
 

Geiseric

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Ah, I know how to calculate it, what I dont know is where to set the probes when the atty is in. Can it be anywhere on the atty circuit? Ive seen those fancy 510 threaded meters, would be nice to have.

*edit* to clarify, on the Dna the switch is on a seperate circuit than the atty. If I am to check it with probes under load, the only possible way to do so would be directly from the center post and thread. Or from the dna solder points. But the solder points are embedded in the case at the moment, and thus.. My dillema. I think I may be able to slip the positive probe under the bottom of the atty assembly.. perhaps. I am definately replacing the pot now, along with the rest of the stuff I mentioned above. I am also going to grind a post down to size to put in a third on the right side.
 
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Geiseric

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Alas, it was destroyed by my cat. Slap, off the table it went, and completely shattered. It's okay, though, it's time for my second attempt. Hopefully I will have a better one to show off later this week. I'm starting construction Monday, I think. Two days for staining, and one for finishing and wiring, should be ready to show off Friday.

I would really like to next make one with a built in rebuild able, but I'm not quite sure how I'm going to go about it. I'd like to have it be removable from the main body for easy atty rebuilding, but I'm not sure how I can make it all flush enough to the feeding system to make it even function as a feeder. Maybe a vivi nova style without the rubber grommet? Hrm.
 
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