Dripper Hybrid?

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unloaded

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Does anybody make one of these? I haven't seen one but would be really interested in one. I'm thinking something similar to IGO-L setup on the top half. Bottom I'd like to be 18350 or 18490 for compactness. Small, powerful, sturdy and configurable are what I have in mind. I'd love to get rid of the 510 connection, it adds length, resistance and weak link. I wonder if there is enough of a market for a maker to produce something like this? I'm not knocking tanks or anything, it's just that I prefer dripping, it works out better for my needs.
 

jasl90

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I've actually been thinking of doing something along these lines with my Natural.
The idea is to remove the center pin and insulator from the 510 connector and grind down the top cap until center pin of my atty is able to make direct contact with the battery.

The benefits:
1) The removal of an electrical connection
2) A shorter device over all.

The down-side:
1) Any atty used, would need to have a protruding pos post. Any contact between the battery's pos post and the top cap or neg threading on the atty would result in a dead short.
 

TheRem

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Submarine mod. Hybrid but you can also connect a 510 atty.

541638_241889722616850_822037928_n.jpg
 

VpnDrgn

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There is a thread in the modder forum for a chee-brid. It is a chi-you (?) mechanical mod with the
parts from 2 different AGA-T rba's replacing the 510 top cap from the mod to make a hybrid mod.

You could extrapolate from this to make the following mod.

needed -
1 - AGA-T rba with the steel tank; this is essential for the top deck that has threading on both ends
- the top deck and cap are all that is used, the bottom deck and tank are discarded
1 - mech mod with removable top cap and comparable threads ( 22mm diameter )
- obviously the chi-you would be one, I know from experimenting the Precise+18 would work, and maybe the Natural

You would shorten the center post to fit under the top cap of the rba, and stack the insulators to create
the batt contact as shown in the che-brid thread. Remove the secondary neg post, fill the wick hole and fill hole,
and it should look a lot like the Igo-L. You could put plumbers tape around the neg screw to cut down on
leaking, but you would probably still have some ( not much ) leaking around the pos post.
When you screw in the top deck, you may have to use magnets to make up any difference in depth
between the the modded top deck and the original 510 top cap.

There you go, a mech with a built in rba dripper, for a lot less than a hybrid.
 

ClippinWings

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The main feature of the IGO-L that I like is the diameter/room to work. That's the only reason I mentioned it in particular. I think I prefer air from the side compared to center post.

Um... the Nimbus has side airholes and is a 22mm RDA.

It's essentially a IGO-L, but it has a 2nd negative post, making it easy to set up dual and quads.

IGO : -|...+|.....

Nimbus : -|...+|...-|
 
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calpis

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Welp, got my 2in1 but there were no screws to be found. I went to Ace Hardware and picked up some M2x8, 10, and 12 bolts and matching M2 nuts.

Here's what I made after an hour and 2 bad setups:

dtDYRvZ.jpeg

nczaXhX.jpeg


It's hitting pretty well at ~1.2-ish ohms. My gripes is that the metal for the tubes is pretty thin and that the button throw in 18350 is like a full cm.
 

calpis

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I added an o-ring from an Aga-T2 so I could better adjust the position of the air holes and it's pretty much perfect now. On an 1.3 ohm coil the voltage drop on my setup came out to be 0.18v. The draw is airy and the air control kinda works but I'm not a fan. I do wish the mod was shorter and had a shorter throw on the switch, I'll probably go and see if I can find a screw that would fit into the bottom cap to reduce the throw.

This thing hits hard and might actually grab another for a SS mesh setup.
 
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