Drippers and boxes!

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suprtrkr

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Thanks for the info everyone! Ive been browsing around for a decent regulated mod and I have a few models in mind, i usually do a search on here for any piece of gear that im even considering buying before i spend the cash. The batteries i buy can all handle the loads i give them so im not too worried there, just a bit of a learning curve for boxes over mechs.
You and me both, my friend :) I went with the Snow Wolf because a) it is the most powerful conveniently available and reasonably within my budget; and b) because the temp control is supposed to be one of the best available. This allows me to try both high power and TC in one box. It surely won't be the last thing I try. I'm likely to find it a skosh big and heavy for work, for example. Either way, I am good at fancy wood work and I like to build things, so I'll make my own, I imagine. But I would like to figure out what power range and if I like TC before I go to the effort. :) But I certainly looked around for a while before getting there...
 

suprtrkr

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check out reviews on the aris pro - i have one, it is well built and very pretty, but i have not found a good build for it yet - does not seem to like sub ohm - may be operator error - take a look at one of the hellboy clones - love that on my m80 box
Taking your advice, my friend, I spent some time last night boning up on the reviews on the Aris Pro. Oddly enough, there isn't a lot of stuff here on the board; double odd, in my eyes, considering how pretty it is. The general consensus, bottom line, seems to be it is well made, very pretty, seriously cool because it's glass and you can see the vape coming off the coils, but it will never be a cloud chaser because it doesn't flow enough air and there is no way to fix this. An excellent and reasonably priced flavor chaser, but that's all. You can build it as low as you like-- you'd have to, with Ni200 if you want to TC it-- but it just isn't ever going to be a lung buster. Judging by your commentary and your recommendation for a Hellboy clone, I suspect mega-clouds are where you want to go; and it is then probably not the gear you want. You wouldn't, by chance, be interested in selling yours, would you? :)
 

nyiddle

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So here are some of the boxes ive been looking at:

iPv mini 2 70W
Sigelei 150W
Kanger subbox mini kit (mainly cause...free tank lol)
Pioneer 4 you - IPV 4 100W

Anyone have any suggestions? Ideally i would like 70+ for wattage but i dont mind starting in the 50s if quality and price are good.

I love my Sig150. I have never been satisfied with the IPVx series. In general, P4U is a pretty "meh" company at best.
 

suprtrkr

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So here are some of the boxes ive been looking at:

iPv mini 2 70W
Sigelei 150W
Kanger subbox mini kit (mainly cause...free tank lol)
Pioneer 4 you - IPV 4 100W

Anyone have any suggestions? Ideally i would like 70+ for wattage but i dont mind starting in the 50s if quality and price are good.
I don't own any of those, but I looked at every one making the exact choice you're struggling with this week, plus the Smok 80w. I came closest to the Sig 150. I eventually settled on the Snow Wolf 200W TC and ordered it yesterday. My reasoning was, it's only $25 more than the Siggie, and offers what this forum claims is one of the best yet implemented TC systems. Knowing me, I'd never be happy until I had tried TC, and I wanted a hi-watt box anyway because I haven't tried anything above about 40w before and I'm not sure where my vape is going to be. That may be beyond your budget-- it certainly is mine-- but I knew I'd be buying another one soon anyway, if I didn't get both hi watt and TC to play with this time, so I bit the bullet. That way, I'll have a better idea where I really want to be when I get around to building a custom box.
 
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suprtrkr

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I might be mistaken but did I read somewhere that TC required nichrome coil builds?

Also thanks for the heads up about the P4U.
Not Nichrome, which is different, but Ni200 or Ti (for some mods, not all can handle it) is required in TC mode. But none of then, AFAIK, are restricted to TC. They all fire regular Kanthal coils in VW mode. Some of them are supposed to be auto-detect-- don't ask me how-- about what kind of coil is in the atty and switches modes for you.
 
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nyiddle

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Not Nichrome, which is different, but Ni200 or Ti (for some mods, not all can handle it) is required in TC mode. But none of then, AFAIK, are restricted to TC. They all fire regular Kanthal coils in VW mode. Some of them are supposed to be auto-detect-- don't ask me how-- about what kind of coil is in the atty and switches modes for you.

Nickel wire is virtually "non-resistance" wire, so making a build ohm out to above .3 is pretty difficult (most nickel builds I see are .08-.2 ohms). As a result, I recommend only using it on a TC mod.

Anything else and you'll be demanding insane amps from your battery.
 

suprtrkr

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Nickel wire is virtually "non-resistance" wire, so making a build ohm out to above .3 is pretty difficult (most nickel builds I see are .08-.2 ohms). As a result, I recommend only using it on a TC mod.

Anything else and you'll be demanding insane amps from your battery.
Oh, amen. Even if I wanted to go that low-- I don't-- I'd use Kanthal for anything but TC mode.
 
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Hitcat44

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You are correct. You need nickel-plated wire to use TC functionality. I've heard other people using titanium, but uh. I don't recommend that.

Why is that?
Done a TON of research on it reviewing those who have and are doing so quite successfully and happily and it is not an Issue.
Granted, you need to be fully aware, educated, and knowledgable prior to but after such is no Problemo.
It also requires specific Prep and Procedures for proper building but no Biggie overall.
Got some 28ga Ti Grade 1 in route as I type
 
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nyiddle

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Why is that?
Done a TON of research on it reviewing those who have and are doing so quite successfully and happily and it is not an Issue.
Granted, you need to be fully aware, educated, and knowledgable prior to but after such is no Problemo.
It also requires specific Prep and Procedures for proper building but no Biggie overall.
Got some 28ga Ti Grade 1 in route as I type

From the research I've done any situation where the coil is dry-burnt (which I mean, shouldn't be happening on any mod, but specifically on a TC mod) can lead to the Ti essentially bursting into a nasty chemical fire. Clearly, in the perfect circumstance where your TC mod is working correctly and your wick is adequately wet you won't be reaching these temperatures.. But you're kind of banking on those two things.

Among other things, Nickel wire is perfectly suitable to use, I don't know exactly why people jumped to low-resistance Titanium wire. I think the thought was that it's a cleaner vape, but if your situation goes awry it's the farthest thing from cleaner. I mean, I know people do it, but I don't recommend it just because it should only be done with the proper knowledge and know-how (which the average bear doesn't possess).
 
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Hitcat44

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Understand. You got some valid Points.
However, from what I have seen, Ni200 is actually less Resistant than the Ti (Ni200 takes more Wraps of same ga and ID to get to desired Ohms than does Ti). Case in Point; to achieve a .4 ohm Resistance using 28ga on a 2.5 mm ID Coil you need a 34/33 Ni200 Coil. On Ti at the same Parameters you only need a 7/6 But maybe you aren't talking about Ni200 or I am missing something.
Good point on a defective or malfunctioning TC Mod might ruin your Day. I plan to run the Ti in an RTA Device ie. the Lemo v2 also in route now (where I can view the Juice Level for more reasons than just anti-dry wick) on an SX Mini M. So hopefully such an Event will be averted prior to its Inception. Once I get proven and comfortable with the Ti Build Deal, I will then convert my El Cabron RDA to Ti and Let 'Er Rip with confidence.
On the other hand, do have a second black STM on the way with a Pack of OCC Ni200 Coils as well. Not a lover or hater of either Wire Material yet.
Besides, I've never been an "Or" Guy.... I prefer "AND" :thumb:
 

nyiddle

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Understand. You got some valid Points.
However, from what I have seen, Ni200 is actually less Resistant than the Ti (Ni200 takes more Wraps of same ga and ID to get to desired Ohms than does Ti). Case in Point; to achieve a .4 ohm Resistance using 28ga on a 2.5 mm ID Coil you need a 34/33 Ni200 Coil. On Ti at the same Parameters you only need a 7/6 But maybe you aren't talking about Ni200 or I am missing something.
Good point on a defective or malfunctioning TC Mod might ruin your Day. I plan to run the Ti in an RTA Device ie. the Lemo v2 also in route now (where I can view the Juice Level for more reasons than just anti-dry wick) on an SX Mini M. So hopefully such an Event will be averted prior to its Inception. Once I get proven and comfortable with the Ti Build Deal, I will then convert my El Cabron RDA to Ti and Let 'Er Rip with confidence.
On the other hand, do have a second black STM on the way with a Pack of OCC Ni200 Coils as well. Not a lover or hater of either Wire Material yet.
Besides, I've never been an "Or" Guy.... I prefer "AND" :thumb:

Wrapping a .4 ohm build on Nickel wire isn't practical, as it's essentially "non-resistance" wire. 30 gauge Kanthal is 8.4 ohms per foot. Ni200 is .6 ohms per foot. Obviously you're not expected to build a 33-wrap build. Thing is about resistance in a TC mod, it's never actually applying the full voltage because it's cycling through voltages to reach/not exceed your temperature settings. A .15 Ni200 build is perfectly normal/acceptable/usable on a TC mod.

So normally I'm a fan of "higher ohms = safer" but in the case of Titanium that's not necessarily true.

With both titanium and nickel however, throwing it on something like a mech mod would be a HUGE no-no, and could end catastrophically bad.
 
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Hitcat44

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Ahhh, Gotcha. Thanks much for that Info and clarification. A .12 ohm using 28 ga on 3mm ID would be a 9/8 and perfectly fine. Same Parameters and Wrap would be a .6 Ohm using Ti and equally OK.
Makes more sense now. Can't equate the desired Ohm on Ni200 with same using Ti. Acceptable & Safe Targets will be different. Basically, as long as above Device Mins, whatever will fit is fine.
All the above predicated with the Absolute Necessity of a Variable Mod designed and proven for such.

Just entering the TC Build & Conceptual World after @ 3 years on the "Old-World" Kanthal and its Norms & Standards. Like going back to Grade School.
Thanks again for the Intel and for not smackin' me around for my ignorance and insolence.
 

nyiddle

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Ahhh, Gotcha. Thanks much for that Info and clarification. A .12 ohm using 28 ga on 3mm ID would be a 9/8 and perfectly fine. Same Parameters and Wrap would be a .6 Ohm using Ti and equally OK.
Makes more sense now. Can't equate the desired Ohm on Ni200 with same using Ti. Acceptable & Safe Targets will be different. Basically, as long as above Device Mins, whatever will fit is fine.
All the above predicated with the Absolute Necessity of a Variable Mod designed and proven for such.

Just entering the TC Build & Conceptual World after @ 3 years on the "Old-World" Kanthal and its Norms & Standards. Like going back to Grade School.

Right, Titanium is pretty much on-par with 30 gauge Kanthal in terms of resistance per foot, whereas Nickel wire is like.. 1/14th the resistance. And definitely, the most important part, is that you're using a TC mod.

Additionally, after doing some more reading, Evolv (makers of the DNA40) suggest "halving" your temperature control setting in order for it to play nicely with titanium wire. Other TC mods, as far as I know, don't recommend doing this.

Thanks again for the Intel and for not smackin' me around for my ignorance and insolence.

My hands are still sore from the last guy.
 

dcfluegel

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Taking your advice, my friend, I spent some time last night boning up on the reviews on the Aris Pro. Oddly enough, there isn't a lot of stuff here on the board; double odd, in my eyes, considering how pretty it is. The general consensus, bottom line, seems to be it is well made, very pretty, seriously cool because it's glass and you can see the vape coming off the coils, but it will never be a cloud chaser because it doesn't flow enough air and there is no way to fix this. An excellent and reasonably priced flavor chaser, but that's all. You can build it as low as you like-- you'd have to, with Ni200 if you want to TC it-- but it just isn't ever going to be a lung buster. Judging by your commentary and your recommendation for a Hellboy clone, I suspect mega-clouds are where you want to go; and it is then probably not the gear you want. You wouldn't, by chance, be interested in selling yours, would you? :)

I may be, at some point - not completely a cloud chaser, but I do like some cloud action, lol - got it thinking it would be good for taste testing diy flavors, going to try a dual vertical coil 1ohm build on it with a horseshoe wick and see how that behaves - but will keep you posted, brother
 

suprtrkr

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I may be, at some point - not completely a cloud chaser, but I do like some cloud action, lol - got it thinking it would be good for taste testing diy flavors, going to try a dual vertical coil 1ohm build on it with a horseshoe wick and see how that behaves - but will keep you posted, brother
Lol, OK.
 
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