Dry Burning...IS It the Secret?

[Miata GT]

As I have mentioned before I have a number of T3S's that I use for various flavors. At times I'll grab a tank that doesn't seem to flow correctly, resulting in an intermittant dry-burnt taste. I never suspected the coil because if I gave a few dry puffs then refired I would get a few good pulls then burnt taste again.

I have a few extra attys I keep them in rotation, cleaning them in vodka and water before pulling them away, but I don't always dry-burn them.

So last night I was reading something here and it prompted me to take one of the T3S's that was giving me a problem, rinse the atty then pull it apart and dry burn it. While dry burning I could smell that same smell that I tasted on the wisps of smoke that came off. I dry burned the coil until the smoke stopped, re-assembled, and tried again. No bad taste!

Just throwing this out there in case it helps another newbie!

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

Good post. I find after dry burning my heads are "almost" like new. Don't forget to rinse the head/ coil after dry burning- removes the ash.

 

[Thrasher]

yep back when I used clearos I could get a month out of a head sometimes.

 

[Spazmelda]

I also find that dry burning gets them practically back to new. Dry burning and replacing the flavor wicks (on a protank) is almost as good as rebuilding the coil.

 

[jblindy]

I am relatively a newb to vaping, only been doing it about a month now, but I did a lot of reading before I started. I have been dry burning my clearomizers from the beginning. I have yet to replace a clearomizer. I have three ego style clearos and four mini clearos that I use on my Halo g6 batteries. I go through about three mils of juice a day and clean and dry burn my clearos weekly. I also pulled the fill out of some cartos for dripping and dry burn them as well. No problems yet.

 

[elfy]

i rinse, dry burn, rinse again, dry burn it again...rinse...then rewick (and prime it with juice after that)...makes me a happy elf

till i gunk my heads up again...

 

[InTheShade]

I'm a big dry-burn advocate too. Even if you use the silica wicks and have no intention of changing them, a dry burn can remove the crud off the wicks as well as the coil.

I've never 'popped' a coil, burnt my silicone, burnt the wicks, melted the tank or set off a smoke alarm - all things I've seen people worried about when asking about dry-burning.

Like Thrasher said, you can get the cheap $1.50 heads to last weeks and weeks.

Good post Miata GT, thanks.

 

[440BB]

Dry burning coils has easily given me double the quality vaping time, cutting my cost in half. It may take a couple minutes, but is nothing like the work cleaning cartos used to be!

 

[Spazmelda]

Dry burning coils has easily given me double the quality vaping time, cutting my cost in half. It may take a couple minutes, but is nothing like the work cleaning cartos used to be!

Oh, cleaning cartos was a pain, and they never worked right for me after I tried cleaning them.

 

[devauto]

I've had mixed success with dry burning. When it works it seems to work well, but I have popped quite a few coils trying to make it work... Just my experiences.

Glad it works for you!

 

[kalligator]

All valid points above, just do not expect that after every dry burn it'll be actually back to 100% "as new" performance. It degrades a little every time.

 

[photon9]

Don't pulse longer than 3 - 4 seconds!

 

[UncleChuck]

Don't pulse longer than 3 - 4 seconds!

That seems key to avoid burning the rubber grommet. Short, higher voltage pulses seem to burn the crud off the coil quicker, without burning the rubber. Low power, long burns seem to scorch them easily.

Also doing frequent dry burns, even when the coil still isn't totally gunked, seems to work better than waiting until the coil is unvapable. I've tried to dry burn some seriously nasty coils given to me by my sister to rehabilitate, and they were all a failure. So much gunk you couldn't remove the flavor wick, which meant you couldn't burn off the gunk between the flavor wick and the coil. And the massive amount of gunk seemed to act as a heat sink, as I was unable to get glowing wire anywhere other than the legs, which led to burnt rubber.

Dry burning before you need to, and making sure to remove the flavor wick prior to burning seem to really make it easier to get a clean coil, and avoid burning the grommet.

 

[UnclePsyko]

That seems key to avoid burning the rubber grommet. Short, higher voltage pulses seem to burn the crud off the coil quicker, without burning the rubber. Low power, long burns seem to scorch them easily.

Also doing frequent dry burns, even when the coil still isn't totally gunked, seems to work better than waiting until the coil is unvapable. I've tried to dry burn some seriously nasty coils given to me by my sister to rehabilitate, and they were all a failure. So much gunk you couldn't remove the flavor wick, which meant you couldn't burn off the gunk between the flavor wick and the coil. And the massive amount of gunk seemed to act as a heat sink, as I was unable to get glowing wire anywhere other than the legs, which led to burnt rubber.

Dry burning before you need to, and making sure to remove the flavor wick prior to burning seem to really make it easier to get a clean coil, and avoid burning the grommet.

Double +1 Brotha! Getting the dry-burn in BEFORE it becomes un-vapable is key!
I also dry-burn the flavor wicks with a butane micro-torch using a pair of Rebound Tweezers...

1PK-118T Wood Handle Stainless rebound Tweezers (165mm) [Tweezers00026]

They are also useful for compressing and holding micro-coils while torching.